hypothetical liquid cooling system
 

I've seen cooling jackets, coils, tubing, and fittings such as these for boats.
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...m-neu1512-1515
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=cen-bjs02
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...=ose-t-fitting

I'm not sure if this was the real deal or prototype
http://www.finedesignrc.com/ct-infernoGTreview.htm

What other components like radiators, pumps and coolant are out there to achieve a liquid cooled system?

The only issue i see is there's nothing moving the water around. The water needs to flow to do any sort of water cooling.

Radiators + tank + pump + tubing + water = all unneeded weight

If you need water cooling....

http://comhacker.org/wp-content/uplo.../04/wrong5.jpg

Properly designed systems don't need all of that tomfoolery. The fact that fine design is pushing it is proof positive that it's the wrong thing to do.

Apparently it has a pump and a dodgy radiator.

:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:

http://www.tcscooling.com/ OLD NEWS

Boats use water cooling because it's available for one but second, there is NO airflow in the sealed hull of a boat. In a car or truck air is available to cool your components. Don't buy junk motors and escs and expect miracles! A neu or medusa with proper gearing most likely won't break 150*

water cooling
 

hi all...well all i can say is liquid will carry heat away 2x better than air, the only problem is getting the heat through the motor casing to the water so in the case of that boat jacket, it would not work very well if used on a motor with cooling fins cut on the side.
i think the system has potential. maybe a pump on the rear of the motor, just a low loss pump.
looks to me like that pipe is car brake pipe made from copper and is really cheap to buy a roll. so bend it into shape as a radiator and wrap some around the motor as a cooler coil (bends really easy). then u just need a pump. hmmmmm.......
maybe a water cooled brushless e-maxx coming soon:intello:

That is true; liquid does carry heat away faster than air. However, by the time you add this type of cooling to a cheap system, you have A) created more weight, which creates more load and heat, B) spent as much as a more efficient setup that doesn't need any exotic cooling, and C) added a level of complexity and possible points of failure.

I think that the water circulates by itself, like a radiator at home (hot-cold-hot), looks interesting.

this is my recent way to cool (honestly, Its not my own idea):
I've put a vent on the back, blowing air through the motor:
http://s10b.directupload.net/images/090109/bf9v58xw.jpg

a nylon-sock keeps dirt away:

http://s11b.directupload.net/images/090109/etq347p5.jpg

at least the heat doesn't stay inside.

I've read about this guy who drilled holes into his kb45, and put a vent on the back (boat use), that's where Ive got the idea. I did that with my kb45 as well, temp was around 40 deg. c.

on top I have an other vent beside the motor. sure, the higher the efficiency the better. but not everybody can afford a neu, and unfortunately the medusas aren't available here in europe. this one is a cheapo (36-88-49), but quite okay.

don't forget, most electric motors in industrial use also have vents.

Yes, get the heat off the motor into the water, then to a radiator where the sir has to remove the heat... Circular logic as the water is now air cooled, not the motor. Might as well add the weight that you would have with all of the water cooling up, and make a giant heatsink for the motor.

Real car water cooling setup only works well due to volume of water and forced air cooling of the radiator, and the increased surface area the fins afford.

Watercooling is just a bad idea for vehicles. It only works well in boats due to the fact that you have an ass load of water and at 20+ mph flow is quite high.

watercooling
 

I had a working watercooling system in my 61 mm Lst2 truck. It works real good cooling your motor but for the ESC it's not. My motor 1527 1D started
out with 140 but with watercooling it did not get up to 100 degrees. The ESC is another story as the instant burst of current could not be dissipate fast enough by watercooling that I burnt 2 ESC. I had a miniature diaphragm pump. The TCS micro pump is not good when running, it's only good on bench test. Only my opinion, the trick is getting a pump to flow water but it does work and it's not that heavy.

well no the reason a car has water cooling is the surface area on the engine can not dissipate the heat fast enough so the water carrys the heat to the rad.... which has 5 times maybe more surface area as you said. but i hope my motor wont have an internal temp of 450 degrees or so. :lol: so im not going to water cool my maxx for that reason. if set up right it dont need water cooling :yes:

So you had a motor that wasn't hot in the first place, and made it even less hot, but toasted 2 ESCs in the proccess. Sounds like a win to me! :lol:

Maybe I should repharse that. I meant that water cooling was a bad idea for RC vehicles...

And yes you are coorect about the surface area to mass ratio of the engine to the radiator. The water is simply a method to transfer the heat.

I think the systems for rc vehcile need to have at least 4-6oz of water (or glycerol) to work well. Even a large heatsink with plenty of airflow will not drastically lower the temps of an ineffecient motor, the heat is being produced in such a volume that the external surface of the can cannot conduct it well enough, unless the liquid circulated around it was super cooled.