Inside a Feigao (type) motor...
 

Whilst I was waiting for the 80mm medusas to put in an appearance, I got a little hammer-happy, and here are the results for your viewing pleasure:

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...icture1017.jpg
After removing the rear endbell screws, you simply have to twat the shaft (front end) and the rear endbell pops off. Note the plain metal shielded bearings used.

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...icture1018.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...icture1019.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...icture1020.jpg
Windings vs can.

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...icture1021.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...icture1022.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...icture1024.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...icture1025.jpg
Showing the laminations that make up the stator... or is it strator, I can never bloody remember :oops:

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...icture1026.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...icture1029.jpg
Rotor/ fridge magnet.

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...icture1030.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...icture1031.jpg
Now this is the bit that interests me. The rotor is aprox 20mm shorter than the windings (magically self centers when you slide it into the windings); my question is- good thing or bad thing, having a magnet shorter than the windings? All I seem to remember is something about magnetic saturation points and increased current flow, but a proper technical explanation would be useful, or comparsions with other motors etc.

It looks like most inrunners of that type are built the same way. I have attached the guts of the C50-MAXX motor.

Damnit! You are one lucky guy neil... I still cannot remove the windings from my BP xl motor.

Heat the can to melt the epoxy that holds the winding in the can. The assembly will slide right out. It's very easy.

Is that a Bidproduct motor?

Yep, BidProduct 36-74-1845kv finned motor.

Interesting comparison with the proper Hacker- seems the stator is only as long as the magnet, and the two line up internally (focusing the magnetic field?).

I do believe the front end is screwed on though, no amount of hammering the sh!t out of it would budge it, which is a good thing really- very unlikely to see the endbells pop off.

On another note though, good luck hand winding the prototype motors Takedown... :/

Tried it twice at 300 degrees for 5 mins intervals already lutach. Nothing budged...

Ill focus on that issue once I get the windings out of the can first...:whip:

Were you able to take the end bells off? If so, with a padded vise hold the motor, heat the can and with a round piece of wood tap the winding out. I took the stator out of a slotted motor out by just heating the can. The stator just slid out.

Very odd. Try using a long (and thick) flat bladed screwdriver, insert it into the motor, and then lever it under the end of the windings- there should be a small gap between the winding sand the front endbell of the motor internally. You could also try the wooden dowel/ broom handle method like mentioned- hammer it against the windings to break the glue bond, then it should be easy to just slide the windings out with a hook of some kind.