Duratrax raze buggy conversion
 

I picked up a Duratrax raze buggy and truggy for a song earlier this week from a guy getting out of the hobby. My intention was to get into nitro to brushless conversions using something pretty cheap yet durable. I know it's not the best quality, but figure for a starter build, what the heck.

http://i44.tinypic.com/34si5qv.jpg

http://i40.tinypic.com/5ofkex.jpg

http://i41.tinypic.com/5p3n9g.jpg

Both vehicles are in really good shape. I've stripped out all the nitro parts (anyone want some nitro motors for cheap :D!) and am now working on cleaning and rebuilding the diffs. Due to my work schedule, this will be a long build, so don't wait up for me :sleep:

Next steps:

1. Rebuild diffs and shocks
2. Clean and sell off all nitro parts
3. Strip and clean both vehicles
4. Replace all phillips hardware with metrix hex
5. Pick up some easy off and bye bye blue anodized parts

I've got a raze buggy mount on its way (or in the mill) from Mike. My plans for electronics are MMM/2650kv combo on 4s lipo.

I'm still undecided on what to do with the truggy beyond cleaning it up. Since many of the parts are interchangeable with the buggy, I might keep it just for spare parts. On the other hand, the wheelbase is the same as the Slash, so I may switch it over to buggy arms to bring in the track width and see if I can't convert it over to a 4WD CORR electric truck. Very doubtful I'll build it up as a truggy, they've just never appealed to me.

Aluminum chassis braces are a must. I've got the bent dog bones to prove it. Right now on my nitro Raze ST Truggy the rear dogbone is so bent that it can't turn a full rotation. Thats from hitting a parked car tire at around 25mph. I bought a set from summit last year then they had that big sale on Raze parts.

-Brian

I like your corr truck idea. I too am not that fond or truggies. I have had at least 6 of them so far and sold them all. I just prefer MT, and 1/8 buggies.

Looks like you have a fair amount of work ahead! I always buy used stuff, the cleaning time is well spent as you get to learn the vehicle while taking it apart. It is like building a kit, only much cheaper, and much dirtier. I usually do the work by hand with a bucket of water and a selection of small scrub brushess, but I think I will step up to the steam cleaner next time to get the bulk of the grime off...

Hey before I saw your post I made one in the brushless forum. I'm getting a st. looking to convert it also. what gearing you looking at going with?

Sounds like user error to me :wink: Just bugging you. Probably a good upgrade for sure. The funny thing is, the braces will be almost as much as I paid for the buggy itself!

My wife was already scolding me for cleaning out the center diffs in the kitchen earlier. I had paper towel handy! As I travel a lot for work, I tend to take advantage of the fact that I can clean up parts in a hotel room bathtub and not worry too much about anyone yelling at me (no, I don't use their towels, etc., just not something I'd be able to get away with at home!).

I agree, I love building or stripping down rc's. I always want to see what makes them tick. I've never been a big fan of rtr!

Haven't gotten that far yet. If I recall correctly, I think a general gearing recommendation for buggies is about 44/14. Don't know what the spur gear is on either truck yet, but the buggy is definitely smaller, and not much room in there for a bigger spur gear.

After cleaning out the center diffs, it was easy to tell that the vehicles were well maintained, despite the dirt/dried up nitro fuel. Bevel and spider gears were in good shape and the bearings looked and felt brand new with a bit of cleaning.

See my similar e buggy
 

Running at 4S using 2350 KV brushless

Looks good!

Made some progress on the buggy. Completely tore it down, cleaned everything, rebuilt the diffs and shocks and built it all back up. Only damage (other than a few stripped screw heads) was one bent front dogbone.

http://i44.tinypic.com/5l0xs6.jpg

Removing the anodizing proved to be a complete pain. Usually I hit parts with the yellow-cap easy off and a few minutes later, presto. I did the same thing this time, waited a couple minutes, nothing, waited a couple minutes more, still nothing. After about 15 minutes, there was a tiny bit of anodizing gone. Not sure why, but I'm stuck with the blue for now until it warms up enough outside that I can hit it with some draino gel.

Motor mount is sitting in customs right now, so I should have it by early next week.

Looking good waiting for a motor mount for mine also..
phil

Motor mount arrived. This thing is a piece of art, great job Mike. Bolted up with no issues of course!

http://i43.tinypic.com/md1ras.jpg

http://i42.tinypic.com/2rxinfc.jpg

Now to just raise the funds for the electronics and lipo :mdr:!

No update, but a question. I don't have an exact weight on the buggy, but it's definitely heavy compared to something like a Slash roller. I'm thinking the aluminum chassis is probably the worst culprit. I'm curious to hear from others any tips on putting this rig on a diet while still maintaining strength? I was thinking possibly carbon fiber, but I've snapped cf parts in the past before.

Maybe its not even an issue with the power that will be going to this buggy?

For a raze don't bother (not worth the investment) - power will not be an issue :)

Yeah, that was kind of my thought too, better to upgrade the buggy in the future and swap out electronics.

Good to know the power will get it moving along nicely. It just feels so sluggish even sitting still :lol:!

what you planning for a battery tray?
phil

Mikes battery trays are great value and can be transferred with your battery at a later date to a better chassis.

Alternatively yet some kydex and use a heat gunn.

i wouldnt spend any money on trying to make a raze lite, if you want to build a lite weight 1/8 buggy then buy a losi 8ight (you would be shocked to know how lite my lite weight 8 build has become:lol:)