Things to know with a pull starter?
 

I have been using a roto setup, but using a drill motor. my one way fried, and so i thought I'd go with a pull starter while I was...uhh...shopping? :intello:

So I have been reading up on how they pop apart, and how to repair them. Just curious on tips to prevent this from happening? I heard from a youtube vid that tape can help keep it from popping open, is there anything else i should know? How to keep them working good? Things not to do, things different from a roto?

This is on a savage X (if it matters).

To keep the spring from flinging out you just need to make sure the spool always stays within the pullstart housing. From the factory there should be a piece of tape or something holding the spool in. When you remove the pullstart from the engine, have a flat-blade screwdriver handy so you can pry the spool off the backplate instead of directly removing the pullstart housing (prying the spool off will effectively remove the pullstart). While you are holding the pullstart, keep a finger or thumb over the spool.

One of the biggest causes of pullstart failure is pulling the string too far. There's no need to pull it more than about 10in. from the base. Also, if the engine is really tight, use the flywheel to turn it over instead of the pullstart.

question, why would you buy the whole pull starter assembly, which also requires a OWB... why not keep the Roto start?

+1 and if the pinch is really tight even after break-in, heat the block up with a hair-dryer to keeps those hands from damage. It's not nice having your tune slightly off from the last time played and pulling for 5 mins on a cold block, ripped knuckles and blisters is what can happen :whip: heating up the block before you play will get you started in no time and save you some pain :yes:

I used to leave the truck (without body on) in the sun for half an hour while I was getting ready, heated it up enough to start with a couple of tugs.

Lighter, and no drill to carry. thanks guys, will keep that in mind. this is my first PS so i just wanted to make sure.

Hopefully you're good at tuning or else you'll cursing for having bloodied your knuckles. Pull starters are the drill sergeants of tuning.

I like the PS I have on my LRP.28. Its so much easier to just have to carry a glow driver to start the truck.

It was a pain to start it tho during this winter (1st w/ nitro) Damn thing was cold and would not start, and didn't have heat guns or hairdryers where I was at most of the time. Was really missing BL then.

The PS is easy to fix if it pops out. I saw that vid as well after the 1st time I popped it out. Tape trick is good, but the last bit was fiddly the way he was doing it. I just got the spring wound up, put it into the case and let it relax. Then used a small screwdriver thru the string spool (where the hex goes in) to wind the spring a bit as I pushed the spool on. Half a turn on the spring and the PS cord was tight and locked down.

This is my first nitro, so tuning in itself can be a little challenging. Think I got a good tune now. Any leaner and it bogs down, any richer and it smokes a lot more with less power. Plus it idles good, so I think i'm ready for the PS. I actually got so mad when I couldn't start it that I threw it in the air...as high as I could. That was how I broke the gas tank mounts. Hopefully i will get the hang of it. Will post pictures up, and how it's working when it gets here. Tower says that a partial shipment has been made. But nothing is listed as to what got out...hmm...

Hey AD,

You said that you don't like carrying the drill around, correct?

Perhaps you can get a battery operated dremel. I am guessing you use a hex bit for the roto start? If it fits in a drill, it might fit in a dremel.

When I had a Nitro Evader, I broke the pull-start and changed to a Tiger-drive. It worked pretty good but I think I spun it too fast which ended up the engine having almost no compression what-so-ever after a while. But hey, it's all up to you. The pull-starts are still nice because they don't rely on any extra tools except for your hands :)

maxxdout! Great to see you on here! I will look into a dremmel. My dremmel that plugs into the wall has a really small bit... But I haven't looked into battery operated ones. For that matter, one of those electric drill motors (made for handy work) might work out. I will have to look next time I am at the depot. Hmm... I never knew that you could over-do a starter to the point of losing compression. Makes me wonder how many times I've over done my 4.1... :whistle: I have a pull starter that should be at my house today, or tomorrow. I will see how that works out, if not i will keep searching for a portable unit that is hopefully lighter then the big drill motor.

Welcome to the forums! :party:

Thanks for the warm welcome :)

Not really sure if spinning the motor too fast was why the compression was lost so quick but I guess it isn't a good thing when you are turning it over for over a minute and the engine doesn't start. I didn't know better a few years ago ;)

The Savage is my first nitro... who knows what I have done wrong! :oops:

The plan is to work out the kinks before I spend cash on a Picco... Or maybe just forget it all together for a conversion. Just need the battery prices to come down and the Mah to double. :whip:

Roto start or starter box for me. I kill pull starts in a quick hurry.

I wonder if there is anyway to use a starter box for a Savage... Don't think so, only the diff is accessable from the bottom... I will give pull a try. I like the idea of it being simple, so as long as it starts the truck, I am good with it. if not, I will have my OWB replaced, so i can go back to roto if need be.

The key is to properly maintain the OWB. Too many people crank on the starter which heats things up in turn killing the bearing. Quick little bursts with the starter. If an engine is tuned right it should start right up anyways.