RC-Monster Battery Tray
 

I want a step-by-step guide, with pictures, on how to mount the battery tray. I want the screw sizes, drill bits used, and anything else needed. Mike, could you direct me to something like that or put one together (pdf.).

Thank you
Jarvis

first we'd need to know what vehicle you're putting a battery on. even then, I don't think it's that sort of product. It's more of a universal mount where you can with what you have on hand sort of thing.

well i will add my thoughts to this as well, and try not to be as pushy or demanding! j/k man.

i ahve a MP7.5 and wanted some help on the mounting positions since the chassis is angled.
anyone have any insight!

Alot of people do them differently which causes the challenge and it depends on the chassis...

Not all chassis use/need the extra piece of plastic for example...

Normally at least 3 3mm countersunk holes from the bottom of the chassis line up with the battery tay.

I normally hold the tray in place with servo tap and then drill a 2/2,5mm pilot hole into the tray from the bottom. Then gentle screw in the 3mm countersunk screws.

For good measure I then normally drill 2 3.5mms holes from the top in the middle of the tray through the whole chassis - I countersink the holes and the use a 4mm tap through the chassis. I then use a m4 countersink screw for extra protection.

I then line the bottom of the tray with claw side sticky back industrial velcro.

MJ - Yes - mike includes a spacer plate - I line this up against the chassis how you want the tray - Then use a ruler and scribe to put a line where the side kick up is.

I cut off the space at this angle. I tripple check everything and then glue the spacer to the bottom of the tray - Being careful not to glue straps.

Then mount as above making sure that screws go through spacer and tray...

nice, thats awesome help guys. will i have to buy the straps or spacer separately? or do they come with the tray?

i was trying to make a tray from my twin force battery trays, but they are very flimsy, and dont have a lot of beef to them for mounting.

thanks again.

one last question, is it a good idea to get the longer tray? for more battery types or just stick with the shorter one, and cut one end wall off if needed?

Yes, they come with straps and several3mm and 4mm countersunk screws to get you going.

Getting a longer battery tray might be a good idea if you plan on using different batteries, or just wan to keep options open. Jst use some dense foam to take up the slack.

Similar to Arct1k, I would the tray using a couple small pieces of servo tape. Then I drill a 3/32" or 5/64" hole through the chassis and tray - basically smaller than the screw I am using so the threads bite. If using 4mm screws, same process applies, just drill ~1/8" holes for the threads instead, and slightly larger 5/32" holes for the screws themselves. Remove the tray and tape, and enlarge the chassis hole to accomodate the 3mm screw, and countersink it. I usually try to use existing holes if possible first, and drill new holes only if I have to.

I am putting the tray in a D8, and Arct1k thanks for the reply.

the easiest solution by far is to just send the tray to me and i'll mount it in my buggy :lol: I would post pics so that you could see how I did it, then order another for yourself!

Thanks Brian,

I guess it’s not as difficult as I thought, but you balance the car first before you mount?

No problem - Next one I do I'll take some pics and write up some instructions...

You can do but normally I've just done what "felt" right and fitted with desired layout... I'm no pro at driving though!

Cheers

I don't worry too much about balancing. Usually, the battery is counter balanced by the servo and motor on the other side. Still might be "off", but not enough for me to notice. Besides, the gyro effect of the tires spinning in the air tends to even out the truck on jumps.

10-4 guys,

looks like mikes tray is the best bet. beefy, and customizable! cant wait to get one in the mail!