Aluminum vs Plastic
 

Okay, I've been checking out all these awesome GorillaMaxx rides, and I am compelled to wonder at what point (if any) do you have too much aluminum?

I would think that optimally, you would want some of your chassis to still be plastic much for the same reason that you want some of the gears in your drivetrain to remain plastic. If something has to fail, you'd rather it be a less-expensive plastic part than an expensive metal part. Likewise, if/when you get into a nasty crash, plastic is a bit more forgiving that aluminum, which tends to forget its original shape after bending.

I'm sure racers would want the rigidity provided by aluminum, but I will probably never race since the nearest track really isn't that convenient for me. That leaves bashing. And bashing means hitting stuff. Usually hard stuff. Usually at a high rate of speed.

To that end, I've been thinking about a setup with a GorillaMaxx G2 chassis, aluminum bulks and diff cases, but then going with RPM's suspension (shock towers, body posts, upper/lower arms).

So what are your thoughts?

well g-maxx has some pretty durable stuff, but if you just want a nice e-maxx just stick with aluminum.

Good points, megazone. The g-maxx chassis is near bulletproof, and aluminum bulks are highly recommended. If you are bashing and will likely sustain some hard hits, the Proline maxx suspension is the toughest I have seen. If you hit any aluminum arm at full speed from the wrong angle, it will bend or break. For bashing, the Proline is the toughest suspension I have seen (I have broken a few rpm arms, but never a proline arm). I run aluminum on my trucks, but I seldom bash (mostly a racer). Aluminum arms can take quite a hit, but you will likely bend the hingepins often!

I see.

i ordered carbon fiber chassis from gorillamaxx.com, did i make the right decision? i am basicly racing , maybe a bash around here or there, i know 1 reason carbon fiber is better for racing, less wait! Any other positives? Or shouldve i got aluminum for durability?

* weight *

The CF will be plenty durable. Just prep it like mentioned in the other post for long lasting G-maxx power!

ok i will.

Does Pro-Line still make the suspension kit? I looked on their website and did not see it. Maybe I wasn't looking in the right place...

here it is : http://prolineracing.com/proline.html

That's where I looked -- didn't see it anywhere.

sorry, than goto products and than you will see a circle of cars/trucks, click the orange hummer H2, than goto performance suspension and your there :)

Megazone - good point about plastic - I completely agree.

I also take the “crumble zone” approach to building – figure that something will break and plan for it (yes a less expensive part).

I would never use anything but plastic or nylon on the body post and bumper mounts. Maybe even the bulkheads are up for debate (in my mind) :)

all alum truck are great. As long as you designate some breaking points like gorillamaxx said.

For me, my breaking areas are the pillow balls, turnbukle ends, body posts, bumper, bumper mount, and some other stuff that i forget.

Pillow balls i find are the best for breakage points. Because if you ever hit a steel post, or a curb, your tires are gonna be the first ones to touch it. Then the impact would get absorbed into the pillow balls, then turnbukle ends, and then arms. I use UE pillow balls because they have a hex at each end, so even though you snap the head off, you still have a hex on the other side.

but if you buy super tough pillow balls, and super tough turnbukle ends, then you'll be breaking A-arms which for the most part are a part you don't want to break. It's better something cheap and easy to replace gives, than an expensive aluminum a-arm.

well i have scanned through this post several times this is the ifrst that i have read it completley through and i totally agree with you. i am going to be bashing and not racign. i was planning on some gmaxx suspension arms and they seem strong but will they last through like 15 feet jumps or drops george or Mike? and if i bend lets say ONE arm how much does it cost to replace just one part? is it a lot or not to bad? i highly doubt i will be pulling the 15 foot thing off to much but i am going to try this. i know that plastic breaks and you replace at a low cost and you buy everything at a low cost where as aluminum cost a lot and bends, not breaks (to my knowledge) and sometimes it is not to bad and sometimes you need new which is a lot more then plastic.