Diff between RC wire and automotive wire?
 

I've been trying to locate (locally) some 10ga wire to rewire my motor wires, but none of the LHS around me carry it. So, I know I can get some at an automotive shop, but I'm curious if its the same thing? The stuff I've seen doesnt appear to be as flexible as the "noodle" wire I've used in the past, but from a functional standpoint, it doesnt appear any different to me - am I correct?

it should pass the same amount of current, but as you already noticed it will not be as flexible.

And automotive wire will break over time as it continually bends, especially the battery to ESC wire where you connect/disconnect a lot. Motor wires tend to stay put more. I would just order some 10GA noodle wire from somewhere - maybe CC will sell it since that is what they use on the MMM...

These are actually for the motor to esc wires, so once its set, I should be good to go. The Tekno conversion kit I have for my 8T puts them so far apart the wires wont reach. I had an extra set that Castle sent me, but even splicing the two together has them tighter than I like. I'd rather get some long enough, and do it right the first time. I wonder if some high end speaker wire would be better.....
I plan on shrink wrapping all three together to make a cleaner routing, also, so that will reduce movement as well.

If it's for the motor wire, you could use solid wire if you wanted. Well, actually no because of possible skin-effect (tendency for high frequency signal to travel only on the outside of the wire). Anywho, you could go to a car audio shop and pick up 8-10GA wire pretty cheap for the length you want.

But you shouldn't be extending wires really - It causes things to go poof - You want them ASAP - as short as possible

That was my initial thought also. The wires that come with the MMM end up a good 3-4" short using the Tekno conversion.
Might have to look moving things around on the chassis - but it would sure be nice to just have something that bolts together the first time for once.

I don't recall car audio cable being silicone insulated. I'm not sure at what temps the insulation on car audio wire/cable breaks down at.

TBH, if temps are that high, there are more problems than temperature breakdown of wire insulation.

I used to work at car stereo shops, some carry good quality speaker wire up to 10ga. It is softer and flexible, similar to that of noodle. At the current some people run through it, I wouldn't be a bit afriad to use it.

Brian:
"because of possible skin-effect (tendency for high frequency signal to travel only on the outside of the wire)

That's what I'd always heard, but pertaining to current carrying capacity, not high freq. I'd heard that solid wire vs. stranded wire of the same gauge will not carry as much current because it's conducted on the outside of the wire, not throughout. Is that a wives tale or is that a good argument to stay away from thicker, fewer strand wire for high current?

I know that high tension lines are solid, but does the extremely high voltage offset the so-called skin effect, or is this just more bad info?

It's true, but only for AC. DC frequency is 0Hz so it doesn't apply. As frequency gets higher, the more that the current will travel at the outside of the conductor. Which is why microwaves (very high F) use waveguides, which are essentially tuned hollow wires.

In lower, but still high-ish frequencies, like audio and low R/F, use of many smaller wires (strands) compensates. So, stranded wire has two benefits: greater flexibility and lower AC resistance.

Here's more info: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skin_effect

Thanks for clarifying Brian. So if I understand you and can use an RC example, then solid wire would be ok for the battery side of a brushless esc, and stranded for the motor side? I know there's more variables, and this is a kind of exaggerated example because they are interchangeable to an extent (and obviously no one wants solid battery wires) but does that sum it up... somewhat? :lol:

Yeah, pretty much. As you said, stranded is fine on both sides for flexibility concerns, but is not needed for the battery side.

I'm having difficulties finding someone that sells 10ga noodle wire - even online. I havent tried Castle yet, but none of the majors that I've tried have it.