do i have to use hobby spray paint
 

i needa paint a mt body for a lst. i normally buy them cans at the hobby store. but they just enough for a stadium truck size body.
my question is, can i just buy normal spray paint such as krylon indoor/outdoor. it says can be use on wood, metal, wicker, glass, ceramic, masonry, paper and fabric.
this big can only costed me 3 bucks. if i buy the hobby cans, i would need two and theyre bout $6 each.

i have a feeling that the paint would just peel off or wont stick too well since its not polycarbonite/lexan paint.

Try using the search function. I know this has been discussed before.

You must use lexan/polycarbonate specific paint.

Normal paint usually just cracks and flakes off when the body gets bent in a crash. Polycarbonate paint flexes with the body and won't crack.

From expirence I know the Krylon plastic paint doesn't work. It will just crack and flake off. The only paint that will work is the polycarbonate paint.

You can buy createx from hobby lobby, and a cheap $10 airbrush from harbor freight. The createx works well, and you can paint several bodies with it using the airbrush. Its about $4 a bottle. I just did these and maybe used 1/4 of a bottle of each color.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...s/IMG_0735.jpg

use Lustre Kote model paint it comes in 16 oz cans, and is only $8-9 a can.... two cans of lustre kote can paint a: slash, truggy, buggy, stadium truck and another stadium truck body all on 2 cans of paint..... cant beat that, be sure to wash with warm soapy water and scuff the entire inside with a scotch brite pad after you apply your window mask and have at it

Lustre kote drys very fast (15 mins) and should be sprayed on very fine, you should normally have10-12 coats minimum on the body between the 2 colors and a backing paint.

yea i did my research the other day and realized you do need poly paint. well, its a good thing i asked on here first or i would have used that krylon haha.
airbrushed is cool, but i think ill stick with spraypaint for now... nice bodies by the way...you do them flames by yourself or used a sticker type thing?
ill look into those lustre kote paint...sounds much cheaper than pacto or tamiya.
and you use two cans of them big cans!!>?? and 12 coats miniumum...what the heck.
i only do like 4 coats and only use one of those 3oz cans for my stadium truck hahah
it wasnt really enough though. but i managed. i figure two of those 3oz cans should do it for my mt body.
does everyone else use that muuuuch spray paint for their bodies?

Lots of thin coats is better than a few thick coats- depends whether you're just doing a cheap job for yourself or making a masterpiece for a customer.

Junkman's shells are clearly 100% airbrushed, just used some masking tape/fluid to get the shape.

Since I do alot of 1:1 car painting I figured that I could just stuff, basecoat and then clear the bodies from the inside. The basecoat I use covers great, and the clear will protect it from debris hitting the underside. It holds up decent, not as good as polycarbonate paint. I have been meaning to try bulldog adhesion promoter for plastic on a scrap piece of lexan body and see if it will make the paint hold better. If so you could use that and spray paint, very cheap, hope it works.

12 very thin coats.... i will completely destroy a body and have it held together with shoogoo and safety wire stitches and itll still have all the paint on it.. I listed how many different bodies i painted with just 2 cans on lustre kote, is great paint....

an example of how thin the coats are starting with the darkest color 1st (say blue for instance) youll be able to see right through the body even after the 2nd coat, the 3rd and 4th coat of that color should make it solid, then move to your next lightest color, and just the same you should see right through it until the 3rd and 4th coat are on, then you should put atleast 3-4 light coats of a backing color (silver, black, or white) thats why you have so many coats...

As with Lincpimp, I am a Autobody repair tech and use urethane BaseCoat for all my bodies and it holds up extremely well. Bulldog is the cats meow for superior adhesion for any rc paint and definitely a worthy investment. I don't use urethane clear to back the color though, I let the BC flash off well and dust rubberized undercoating over the paint. The undercoating is the shizzle for durability ! The clear will flake off in a hard crash if to many coats are applied, the Undercoating stays flexible regardless and offers chip protection.
If you use spray bomb paint thats not specifically designed for the poly bodies eventually it will fail. Your best bet for non RC body paint is first a coat of Bulldog and few light coats of a "laquer based" spray bomb. Never use Enamel, It will flake off on the first crash.

I wonder how well something like acrylic urethane single stage would do? You can get it in all kinds of colors and it is super cheap if you buy it by the quart (good if you had a few bodies that you wanted the same color).

I may have to give the adhesion promoter a try (I will most likely use rm 865 1k plastic primer, it is clear and sprays thru a std gun) with the next body. Hell if it sticks paint to plastic bumpers it must be pretty good.

Agreed, the RM is equivelent to B-Dog. And even cheaper if purchased by sprayable Qt.
I wouldn't bet to much on the single stage, It's much more of a solid based paint verses the BC, much like a enamel in a spray bomb. When wanting a long lasting paint job It must stick well,(obvisously) So the most impotant thing is; "Less is Better" when pertaining to a catalysed paint. Because it gets to hard/brittle.

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...il/raven18.jpg

I dunno, enamel paint works quite well actually, until you look at it slightly funny that is :whistle:

Sorry to see that, all that work down the shitter. :grrrrrr:
The lace looks nice though:mdr: