1/10 e-revo durability
 

Hi, here is a thread for the 1/10 e-revo brushed & brushless edition talk about durability , weak point , broken parts , good upgrades etc.. :yes:

Are you aware that there is a Revo Forum on here - includes everything you mentioned in your post, and more!

Well for starters the e-revo is way more durable than an e-maxx in stock configuration. Biggest weak point I found on the e-revo s the rear body mount, a turnbuckle between the mount and shock mount serves as a good chassis brace and I never had a problem again. The bearings in the axle carriers get real sloppy after a few runs, I just lived with that. The stock plastic slider axles hold up for awhile but they do wearout and eventually break. They are inexpensive so not a big deal. I broke one set of front arms in over a year and ripped a rod end off a shock. Other than that they aren't to bad durability wise but the handling still sucks compared to a truggy and a truggy is way more durable still. If your really looking for a MT though it's not bad.

Well don't go on the TRX forums as they will tell you they are the best thing EVAR, flame you if you disagree, then procede you give you a long list of suggested upgrades. lol

So my honest review after several years of ownership:

Pros: Way way more durable than the old emaxx. Prolly still much better than the new emaxx. Handles well for a MT, and is flexible enough for lots of things, and lots of upgrades availible if you are looking for a money pit, and even the dinkiest LHS carries Revo parts if nothing else.

Cons:
Well...overall I would say its overly complicated and components are undersized for the job at hand. Granted there have been numerous updates and hopups put out to help fix, but they are stop gaps which can't overcome some fundamental design flaws. They also cause you to be nickled and dimed for little breakages and upgrades. Granted none are too expensive, but totalled up the end up making the truck quite expensive for what it is.

Complicated: Working on it is a pain compared to a last gen Savage or a 1/8 platform (truggy, etc.) Diffs are hard to get too, and requires alot of dissembly of the truck's suspension. Tranny is a pita as well. Yes you can get different rockers for this and that, but requires you to have all those different parts (rocker arms, pushrods, spring sets, ballends, etc; enter the nickle and dime..) and a fair bit of time to change it all around. My guess is most people leave it just as the P2 rockers and never change it.
The 4-gear diffs are small and weak, and need way hvy oil compared to 1/8th scale 6 gear diffs and tend to leak alot due to crappy o-rings.

Hard to tune. I've yet to get the rear suspension where I like it. It needs the nearly the heaviest springs available just to not drag its ass on the ground. => Way heavy shock oil then too. Then the rebound is slow. I guess TRX released another "hopup" as in variable rate shock pistons to help this out, put again another N&D to fix a flaw. Not only that, the shocks are quite small in size, like 1/10 scale, with very little travel. The effect of having such hvy springs and oil to compensate is that there is a lot of force generated in the suspension. Rocker posts tend to bend, ballends wear out fast (the plastic shock ends just rip off..) and push rods get bent as well, unless you upgraded those as well (n&d.) Compared to a std shock design on a tower, there is little fine tuning availible, and requires a lot of screws to be undone and extra parts swapped out to adjust. Whereas on a tower design, one screw in the shock cap, and you can move it to a more progressive or more linear shock rate. You can do this in 5min at the track side, vs 30mins and a bag of spare parts on the revo.

Lameass plastic sliders stretch out. You can get cvds, but you really need to get RPM arms to guard against arm breakage, but that means the arms are so flexible the cvds will get bend or pop out quickly. Keep and replace the sliders then.
Whatelse? Tie rods in rear axel carriers means they can get bent, and tend to get the rear toe out of alignment, esp as ballends wear and get sloppy. Savage is like this as well, but least you can go to a C-hub design. Revo's pillow balls means you are stuck w/
tie rods.

In the end its an expensive truck. You can buy plenty of parts to fix or patch the above, but if you get a truggy off the bat it will come with better equipment standard at about the same price.
EG:

A-main list a Jammin X2 kit for $520
Bl ed Revo is $660
However, to get the upgrades and parts close to a truggy, really you need the Plat Ed Revo roller for $620 (I know it has a 3.3 motor, but bear with me...)

So in the end, you can get the BEER (bl ed e revo lol) and spend however how many $10s or $100s upgrading it, get the Pl Ed and save on upgrades, or just get the X2, convert it, and put a bit more upfront, but end up with a much tougher and far better handling truck in the end (and will not require many parts or upgrades) which is far easier to work on and tune. The same pretty much applies for a pure basher with the savage (but needs a bit of work, but not too much.)

IOW: Revo= a fun but an expensive jack-of-all-trades/ master-of-none truck
....IMHO

thanks for all reply guys I got mine I love it nothing still broke ... how the driveshaft will hold @ 4s ? on my slash the shaft and yokes broke easily @ 3s ... and I got some backlash from my wheels it is normal ? do I can shim between the bearing and the hex pin without any temps or binding issue ?

anyone have already experimented to run the stock e-revo talons tires backward ? they may get better traction no ?

After breaking 4 of the stock plastic sliders and stripping out the rear differential, it was time for upgrades.

I blew a tire off the rim also.

I've broken a few turnbuckles too, from hitting things. That was really my fault.

The rear diff gave up after about 30 packs or so. Upon disassembly, teeth were missing off the pinion, thus the ring gear had something to chew on.

Driveshafts were replaced with Traxxas CVD's and both diffs were replaced with RCM Revo Diffs. The 1/8 scale versions. Ofna Mutilator cups were used for output shafts.

Now, it will handle whatever I wanna throw at it. At least I'm hoping it does.

Soon, the Medusa 36-60-2000kv will be upgraded to a 70mm version. Then later a Castle Neu 2200kv will take its place. :yes:

its a good truck don't get me wrong . but a d8t is better.

There is no better Monster truck.. what makes it a monster truck is the diffs are under the chassis, of course a nice truggy (diffs on the chassis) will be easier to swap and maintain. A truggy is great racing and if that is all you do a better choice of a vehicle, BUT if you bash or play as well as race a MT is way more fun expecially off roading. You can tune the revo's suspension like no other; setup for super high clearance or tight and low for racing. I don't race mine as much lately but I have a pretty perfect race setup that isn't very expensive and will keep up with the best of any truggy on the track with no problem. If you are a good driver the parts that will wear on you are the shock ends & the drive shafts (stretch some over time) but if the slipper is setup right they don't wear fast. Other than that the only parts that break are ones you cause from wrecks :) Parts to have in the tool box = a-arms set (if you don't run RPM), set of drive shafts (ebay for complete or race packs to just swap out the shaft), an extra set of knuckles as they take the most abuse typically. The only bulk head I've ever broken is when I hit a steel pole mid air in a jump after I was bumped by another driver while in the air... I've never broken a rear body mount or front for that matter. I have bent several front push rods (run the red's if you can, much lighter & more durable + they just look cool. There are a bunch of free steering mods that can be done and a few tuning mods that make the steering and handling TONS better than stock box (all free). I would buy the variable rate dampening kit (super cheap) and go with #2 pistons front and back w/ 70wt oils, blue rear, silver front springs. Nice 1/2" offset truggy tires if you are racing on a track are always nice as the stock tires blow racing.

I could go on for a while, but the E-Revo is leaps and bounds better than any other MT from ANY company, nothing compares on or off the race track.

Again as I noted if all you do is race and don't care if you are in the MT class, go with a truggy... cheaper to run, just as fast and easier to clean & maintain.

Who ever is comparing the e-revo to truggies, stop it! They are in two completely different classes! The e-revo is basically the state of the art monster truck (that should also have it's own class in racing, IMO), but like most here said, has a few weak points, namely the differentials, and the axle carriers/bearings, oh, and also the A-arms, kinda weak IMO, but RPM are also not good either, because they are too soft and flexible which causes weird things to happen...

But besides that, it's a pretty darn good buy in my honest opinion. However, if you don't want a MT, then a truggy is definitely a better buy!

Diff's are only a weak point if you don't know how to setup your slipper! I've run the same diffs for over a year.. LOL 30k front, 100k center, 15-20k rear.

Bearings are bearings...

RPM True tracks are a must have for any racer iMO.. but the fronts are a little too sloppy and you should stick w/ stockers for racing and just keep a spare set. If you just bash, get the RPM's for the front as well, they are nearly impossible to break. Those stock Axle carriers (knuckles) are one of the weaker points (when you crash or land jumps bad), Tekno makes a reasonable replacement as well as RD Racing make some real nice alum knuckles albit expensive for those though (99). When you install the true tracks you get the RPM carrier and larger bearings in the rear which are pretty well indestructible. Stay as far away as you can from the front RPM knuckles.. You’ll pop more balls than you can count, way too soft and even w/ a steel ring mod not good enough.

My 2c

I have had my RPM front carriers pop out on me! Went back to stockers, as well as A-arms, they are too sloppy, and can actually twist IN on themselves, sounds impossible but it actually happened to me the other day, the whole carrier goes upside down! lol

I have hound that the stock yokes and driveshafts on my 3s slash brake more frequently during colder ambient temperatures (50f or lower). Get some FLM ones for your slash :yes:. I havent broken anything on my EREVO yet on 6s..... except a wheel :intello:.

Disagree on the push rods - the black steel are more durable than the red aluminum - but no, they dont look as cool.
+1 on the variable rate dampening kit. Helped mine immensly. The E-Revo is also balanced a bit better than the converted Revo's, so you might not have as many issues dialing in your shocks - but just keep in mind that the Revo has been notorious for sag in the rear end. Like someone stated before - get some springs to dial in your setup.

I also have to disagree with you on the diffs - they are notoriously weak for the power most of us on here use. Yes, you can dial down your slipper so that you wont damage them, but that is akin to putting an egg under the accelerator on a top fuel car. Your choice - but I know what I'm gonna do - make scrambled eggs out of it!!!!

LOL nice

I only have 2wd right now because I just blew the rear diff (then swapped) after I got my G3's lipo packs. I plan to get the RCM hybrid diffs for it.

The diff had two screws worn away on the inside, and one of them was completely sheared off... I don't really know how that can happen in the first place? But the whole thing was held on by 3 of the 4 screws, but they were stripped, so the ring and pinion was popping, and the fragments from the screws just stayed inside with the spider gears and got ground up, spiders are fine however. IMO, it's the diff case screws which are the weak point; Traxxas really needs to address this problem too, they are being so cheap about it. I mean really, how much does 3mm screws cost?