introducing new 1/8 120a car esc
 

hi,

I just have received my nev bl car esc. It's named "Jamara Flash 3000", and I'm pretty sure that the new controller of Graupner "genius 120r" is the same esc, just with a programming card included.

Maybe sooner or later you get a similar esc in the us, as they're made in China. It is a budget esc, capable for 120a continous and 150 burst. At the moment they are both available here in Germany, the Jamara for about 130 usd, the Graupner for about 185 usd.

built in:
http://s7.directupload.net/images/090829/uma2bcz6.jpg

http://s8.directupload.net/images/090827/clrk7mjr.jpg

There are 18 fets on both sides. the esc comes with a built in sbec.
The case is made of metal, that's good for cooling purposes.

There are 3 330 caps, could be more in my point of view.

Cables are 12 awg.

http://s4.directupload.net/images/090827/cf7werqn.jpg

http://s3.directupload.net/images/090827/mpusaata.jpg

http://s6.directupload.net/images/090827/acfe67e8.jpg

two short movies:
View My Video
Car is my "frankenstein's ride" hyper 7, unbreakable... because of concentrating on that brand new esc, I didn't see that tree...

View My Video

As for the settings, it has basic functions like drag brake, brake, start power, reverse etc. during the first ride, it was all ok, have to play with the break settings.

Overall quality is good so far.

the fan is acutally the wrong one, it's a 12v one, on 5v that's poor. changed the fan with a better one, and connectet it with the batteries. Or you have a 5v fan.

the temperatures have been around 35 degrees c/95 f after 10 on grass. almost no cogging, I was driving with low timing, as I have a four pole motor, medium would be better. startup is smooth, as you can see in the vids.

I hope tomorrow the wheather is getting better, so I can give you some more details on the esc.

florian

Where can these be purchased?

in any shop at least in Germany or in Europe, selling stuff of Graupner or Jamara; dunno which one is shipping overseas. I'll have a look.

I am thinking about adding two 1000uf power caps, by soldering them with a thin wire on the plus and minus directly at the esc.

My question to the expert is: where the actual caps are soldered at, there are also little thingens between plus and minus of the cap. looks like a little resistor.
http://s3.directupload.net/images/090829/gtxzffme.jpg

would it be dangerous to add some more caps w/out such resistors, just w. a wire to plus/minus (I must put the cap somewhere else)?

when I had the plane esc in use, I added a punch of caps, and it worked beautifully.

thanks
florian

I know the company that makes them and I asked them to make one with dual powerboards, but that was the last I've heard of them. They have a 90A 6S and a 35A 6S ESC with switching BEC.

Here is a picture of the 90A next to that 120A unit:

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...6Sand90-6S.jpg

hey lutach,

somehow I am not surprised that you aleady know that esc... you're the pope of bl-ESC's! I am curious who the manufacturer is... do you have experience with those esc?

what do you think, adding two 1000uf low esr caps would be ok? I just don't trust those three 330uf caps. a guy here in germany just smoked his new esc, in his truggy on 6s and a medusa 3680... I want to avoid that w. some extra caps. I am running it on 5s in a loxi xcelorin 1700kv.

thanks for a hint,
florian

I contacted them also to see if they could make a higher voltage model for me, but no word yet from them. The manufacturer is in Taiwan and not China. I don't have any experiance with them, but they seem like a solid design. One member here was testing the 90A 3S esc, but I haven't asked him any more info. I told the manufacturer that a capacitor bank would be nicer as the ones on the ESC could break off due to high impact. I've seen small capacitors do ok, but I like higher and more capacitors just to be safe incase one fails. If the warranty is good for them, try it out. That will be the only real way to find out if it'll work out good.

I don't want to void the warranty, but I'll do it in a way that I can reverse it w/out a problem.

my plane esc's were very smooth and never exceeded 35 degrees c.,w some extra caps (at least doubled the capacity of uf).

for boat esc you can get massive cap banks, eg. by etti or yge. when its good for boats, it should be good for cars, too. especially, as we have higher peaks, and more partial load, different to boats. they have higher permanent amps. but not such high peaks, especially when breaking.

florian

I like big capacitor banks. Most that have used them do report a cooler running ESC.

If you're referring to the brown/orange colored chip that we see a portion of in your picture with a glob of solder on it's end terminal, that's a ceramic capacitor.

One word of advice on adding caps that are off-board, use as thick wire as you can. The purpose of the caps is to supply energy during those high demand moments (chang in acceleration such as immediate acceleration or immediate decel (i.e. braking)). If you use thin gauge wire, the wire will limit the amount of current the caps can provide and get more resistive.


Lutach -

The 90A version doesn't look like it has caps on it. Are there any?

Also, in your opinion, how do these compare to the Hobbywing ESCs? The HWs seem to use good components (at least for their output FETs) and are soldered pretty well (albeit in a ginormous sized package).

if you look at the picture there is an external cpacitor

Oh, I see it now. Haha. Looks like a small bank of 2 caps. Short wires that are fairly thick gauge...not bad.

I don't know how they compare against each other. Both ESCs are somewhat new and both will see a fair share of failures. Only time will tell how they stack up against each other.

Looks like this ESC was thrown together by a 10 year old. But if it performs and is reliable then if you wanted, you could make a custom case for it if you so desired.

I have to agree. Well, the seperate boards look ok, but what's with the crappy foam spacers? Poor design IMO.

And the metal case does little to help cooling. It's attached to the heatsink, but that is the only contact it makes, and even so, it's too thin to be of much use if mounted on a metal chassis.

The power board looks similar to a HobbyWing, but the brains are certainly different.

LOL, not offense, but the more I look at this thing, the more it makes me laugh. It just looks like the engineers were hired off the street, and given 1 week to design it.