Strange eLogger V3 150A reading
 

Finally put eagletree elogger v3 150A on my Mugen and the readings are bit strange.

Used Each battery in a 3+6 minute run
Same car setup except tires but both weight the same (Caliber and Revolver VTR)

5S battery
RX8 - default timing, no punch control
Neu 1415/2.5D- 1700kv
46/15 gearing (39mph)
slipperential of course :)

RACING
1/6 scale very open track, WOT most of the time

http://img.rcx.cz/G3.gif
http://img.rcx.cz/ZIPPY.gif

Very strange is the consumed mAh reading that show only half of what I put into the battery after the run - not shown but is about 1300mAh

Also cant believe that max Amps were only 60 even though I am very smooth on the throttle.

I assume by the voltages you are running 5s?

Anyway, 60A does sound a bit low. Maybe the current sensor has to be zeroed out and recalibrated? Unfortunately, calibration requires hooking it up to a known load and entering the externally measured values vs the ET value. I would guess the mah usage is just a calculation of the cumulative current draw over time, so if the current sensor is off, so will the mAh reading. If the mah reading is about half of what you put in, I would estimate the current peaks are actually about twice as high as they are being shown, which would be more typical for a truggy.

So what are we seeing in the graphs? Is it the mah reading that you are confused about?

So which of those batteries feels like they have more punch?

will try to recalibrate the sensor. hope my cheap multimeter will be enough

punch wise they feel the same

//just checked the eagletree software and rezeroing the logger is done with battery connected and no load. How do I calibrate it after rezeroing?

It seems pretty reasonable. Here is my TC4 on 12s Neu 1515/3D (click for bigger pic)

<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/aRtnwpOOSTKuEHiY0GJmtA?authkey=Gv1sRgCOrc7KGpr5veO Q&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_3N0hwXEVK9I/SRPAfE8jwMI/AAAAAAAAD7o/Pw6DzQpucyU/s800/Eagle%20Tree%20X5%20whole%20session%2011-2-08.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/nick.maslowski/FastRC?authkey=Gv1sRgCOrc7KGpr5veOQ&feat=embedwebs ite">Fast RC</a></td></tr></table>

<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/7rWL_M9s13-vn-eRbKzpNQ?authkey=Gv1sRgCOrc7KGpr5veOQ&feat=embedwe bsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_3N0hwXEVK9I/SQS3JwW2H9I/AAAAAAAAD3E/Un7eiVYeeI0/s800/IMG_0446.JPG" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/nick.maslowski/FastRC?authkey=Gv1sRgCOrc7KGpr5veOQ&feat=embedwebs ite">Fast RC</a></td></tr></table>

Once you zero it out, you then run it in Live mode on a known load. I used a resistor pack to draw ~10A. Write down the current displayed on the ET software screen, and also what the current actually calculates/measures. Stop the Live mode running. In one of the menus, there is an option to calibrate the current and voltage by entering what the ET shows vs what you measured.

A TC4 on 12s will be a whole different animal than a truggy on 5s. I think his displayed current is around half of what it actually is, which would make his mAh figure off as well.

Were you running small batteries like a 2500mAh pack? I calculated from your graph to find your pack has an IR of around 30mΩ, which looks a bit high for a G3 Hyperion.