Tekno RC conversion - its the clutch mandatory?
 

Hi Guys,

I'm thinking about going with a Tekno RC conversion for my 8T. I don't however want to use the clutch.

Can the kit be used as direct drive?

thanks

I'm not familiar with that conversion personally, but the Tekno conversions usually place the motor quite far back to allow room for the clutch. This has two disadvantages:

1: The motor is mounted directly to the chassis at a point away from the CD. When the chassis bends/flexes on jumps or whatever, the mesh may suffer causing premature pinion/spur wear.

2: Since the motor sits so far back from the CD, you need a long shank pinion to reach the spur. This can place a lot of stress on the motor shaft and bearings unless it is set perfectly. Also, this problem can be magnified during chassis flex as described in point 1.

Thanks Brian.

Understand about chassis flex totally. I flexed my chassis that bad one day the rear CVD somehow came out of the centre diff!!!!

Thats a shame as I was looking for a sturdier mount for my Castle/Neu motor.

Are Mike's mounts not sturdy enough? If you feel they are too small, I'm sure he can work with you to make a special uber-tough one if needed. Cost will probably be initially higher for the custom work, but might save you money in the long run replacing spurs, bearings, etc (not to mention the time required to do the work).

I'm not bagging out on Mike mounts, they are very well made. Mine however bent forward (with momentum and weight of the motor) after just a few drives, & a couple of nose dives off jumps.

I have heard of a few cases of bent mounts - doesn't seem to be common (all mine have been holding up fine), but those nose dives can do some damage. If you want to use the Tekno mount, what about drilling new chassis holes so it is closer to where it needs to be? That should help reduce the effect of chassis flexing, or you could attach the tekno mount to Mike's mount to really beef it up.

Just to clarify, we supply an additional brace to prevent any flex around the spur/clutchbell/pinion area. We never here or see any issues about flex in our kits.

You do however need to run a long shank pinion if you want to run direct drive. This is so you can also use mechanical brakes more easily. All options are available if you're not digging the clutch.

thanks for all your help guys.

Does anyone have anyone have any first hand experience with either the clutch setup or the long shank pinions?

I never liked the elektri-crap. I'm using long-shanked pinions now.

had any problems with the long shank pinions? Do you think the motor mount could be moved forward by drilling new mounting holes so a long shank is not required? thanks

I haven't heard of any problems with the long shank pinions specifically(this is also the 1st of my Losi mounts I have heard of bending - I do 1/2 price replacements). With some patience, I am also sure the chassis could be drilled to move the motor closer. :)