1s esc from castle
 

Hi Patrick

A little birdie told me today that you guys will be releasing a 1s spefic esc soon, is this true ?. If so can you tell me some of the details if possible, such as price features ?. Thank's

Pat is in china

Thats okay . Anybody from castle with any knowlegde of this can answer .

If you are not into racing 1/10th pan cars you could not beleive the firestorm that has been raised about running the Mamba Max Pro (with mods) on 1S. These guys are just about s--tting themselves that you can pick up .1-.2 sec/lap with just a speed control, and one that only costs $128.

YEAH, CASTLE!!

Rds(on) FTW

I don't think it is Rds(on), I think it is C.H.E.A.T. mode.

I'd be interested in more details as well, I have a GenX-10 World GT car that would love a nice 1s esc.

Yeah, CHEAT is probably the biggest help here. A lower rdson does help reduce voltage drop at high currents (and therefore more v at the motor), but the difference in speed would be minimal.

I am aware of the pan car guys using the MM pro . I saw alot of them at the track this weekend . I understand you have to pop one of the chips or resistors of the board . I was told this is very easy because the chip you have to remove is only crimped on the board & not soldererd on . I heard they will have one specific for 1s.

FASTXR

I have a GEX 10 wgt as well . I like it alot .

Is there a link to this mod? I'm curious now. Not that I ever plan to run 1s, but might be hand for a non-RC project I'm thinking of...

I was unaware of what the actual mod was, although I had ready that guys were doing something to them for 1s. I'm still using a Smart boost and GTB in my GEX 10 for now as that isn't my primary race class (only about 3 cars out on a weekly basis). I do love the GEX 10 though its a dream to drive, handles like its on rails, too bad the driver keeps derailing it :oops:

If Castle comes out with a specific 1s MMP I would go seriously consider losing the GTB.

Brian

I dont have a link . I only heard the guys talking about it at the track . I'll see what i can find out.

I found this thread on hobbytalk. they talk about it here. I resquested the info about the mod . I will foward it to you if & when i recive it .
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=273365






FASTXR

Im using the 4 cell gtb & booster in my gen x 10 . I would also consider switching esc's . If castle comes out with a 1s specific esc .

I ran 4 cell last year, but decided to go fully lipo this year, to cut down on the amount of stuff I need to haul to the track.

Please let me know as well if you find out details on the MMP mod.

Brian & fastxr

I found out they are removing the voltage regulator & playing with the software in the cheat mode . They said something about 1s software .


FASTXR
I use lipo as well . I just use the 4 cell gtb because it fits my car in the middle behind the battery & in FR of the motor . I also noticed some of the oval guys were removing the case & just using heat shrink like the BK'S did .

Well, I read about 7 pages of that thread before I got tired of the general whining. Man, some racers are such whining p*ssies! Sorry, but it's true. This is a hobby and meant for relaxation isn't it? Where did they lose grip with reality?

Anyway, from what I gather, they are removing the regulator (not clear if it's the UBEC or some other regulator IC - probably linear due to the dropout voltage), flashing some special 1s software, and fiddling with settings.

Some things I see that are wrong but most don't seem to have the intelligence to think of it (or maybe just so worked up with their stupid debating):

- Instead of a receiver pack, use an DE AnyVolt micro to step up the 1s to whatever they want for the receiver/servo. Weighs a lot less and the 1.2A rating should be adequate for their use. Maybe add a capacitor to the output to help cope with the current spikes.

- Measuring output voltage at the motor wires with a meter is meaningless, even with a true RMS meter. The output of these things is square wave, not sine wave, which is what RMS is supposed to measure. The best way I can think of (other than using an o-scope) to see how much voltage is being output to the motor would be to put it in brushed mode, add a ~470uF capacitor at the output with a ~100 ohm bleeder resistor, then measure DC voltage. I say brushed mode because the voltage at the wires won't switch polarity as long as you stay in the forward range. In BL mode, the wires are omnipolar depending on which coil is being fired. The capacitor simply filters the square wave to a smoother DC signal that any meter could measure. The resistor is just there to bleed off any momentary voltage spikes, if any. And to get a true comparison, they should measure the battery with the same meter to get a "calibration" reading.