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FLM Tranny Forward Brushless Conversion (FLM49000)
Hi there,
There's very limited information to find concerning this product (Tranny Forward brushless conversion). Here on RCM the only topic was this one. I currently have an Savage Flux and I would like to make it XL length with the option to put the LiPo's internally. So I went looking but the choice is very limited in this. It was this FLM conversion kit or the DesertBoy-17 from GCM, which is a bit to big for my liking. Anyway, I have some questions concerning this product.
Any input is appreciated! |
More pictures here & info:
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15176 and another, bit more info I think: http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14247 It is a fairly simple conversion I believe, but you will have to use the assembly manual posted here on RCM (somewhere, maybe...) as FLM dont provide one usually. I think everything you need is included, just a case of asembling it & mounting all the flux parts. You wont have/need the brake parts & servo, or the reverse mechanism & servo etc. Check Joram's thread (2nd one) for lipo dimensions, but it seems you can adjust the motor mount position a bit to accomodate pretty much anything- 5s 4000mah should fit fine- you can even widen the chassis a little with some shims to fit fatter packs. Flux motor will fit fine, even with those fairly long fins. Having the tranny up front shifts some weight up front, and having the motor in the middle & the lipos in the rear makes the truck pretty well balanced front/rear I believe. Since its a bashing truck really having perfect handling isnt 100% vital, but I dont think you will have any issues with the truck being hard to steer, just give it a good strong servo :yes: |
Thanks Neil!!
I checked Joram's post/build on a Dutch forum and on Savage Central, also have him on MSN so that's not a problem. Read the first topic though, I only searched for FLM49000 that's why I didn't find any info (stupid me). It has a good strong stock servo :lol: , also have some others so will see how the shock holds up after the conversion (if I buy it the guy is asking $140 NIB incl shipping). ps. I also have some LST shocks which I might bolt on using these 2 parts: VTX-85769 & VTX-85771 like Joram did here or are they any reasons not to do it like that (strength) ? Here Joram is saying he want's to buy the FLIGHTPOWER EVO30-4500 6S which measures 165.0mm/44.1mm/49.1mm. Assuming it would fit my current 4S packs (33mm) and maybe future 5S packs (40mm) would also fit even tough the Blur might have a bigger diameter. |
I've searched some for that manual but can't seem to find it, does anyone happen to have a link ?
Looks like I can also use FLM30000 to put LST shocks on my Savage? Made in the USA Machined from billet 6061 aluminum Use LST2 shocks Recquires mod to stock tower Direct fit for FLM towers Does anyone know what the mod is? EDIT: Here on RCM it states for FLM shocktowers only. http://www.rc-monster.com/prodimages...ockadapter.JPG |
I had the tranny forward chassis, I did assemble it but never ran it. I did not like the weight distribution, way too much to the the rear. I was also not impressed with the battery mounting, or available room for the battery. Nothing against flm, as I own and enjoy alot of their products, but this just fell short of my expectations. Monster trucks need the weight up front so they handle and steer well, plus it helps with wheelies if you are running a potent setup. And they fly alot better off jumps, as the weight helps to counteract the gyroscopic effect that large tires that like to balloon have.
I understand your desire to run the batteries inside the chassis, I wanted the same thing. In the end I sold the chassis at a loss and made my own tvps to accomplish my desires. Here is the thread about that build: http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20077 I have not finished yet, but think it will turn out well. Battery placement is a bit high, but if you could stretch the chassis a bit more the battery tray could be dropped down quite a bit. I had planned to use 5s lipo for this, and length was a bit of an issue. Mine is setup for a battery that is around std stick pack length, 140-150mm?. I also wanted to use regular off the shelf parts, so I have a regular X length rear center driveshaft, and a lst1 wheel cvd as the front center driveshaft. Not sure if you are into fabbing up anything, but this was the best option I could come up with! Much better info is in the thread I linked, my brain is a bit foggy from all of the muscle relaxants I took last night for my back!!!! |
Thanks Linc, going to read your topic now :)
I really lack the machinery to fab up something myself, besides that I also lack the time since I study a lot and I want to enjoy my free time just bashing around a bit. Any suggestions about the FLM30000? Can I use it with the stock towers like FLM advertises on their site or not (it think the latter :( )? |
Poops allover my theory about the weight distribution then... :lol:
I've seen several builds using LST shocks, though alot of thpse people are now using the hpi bigbores, or baja shocks even- smaller diameter makes life easier when mounting them, yet still gives good performance; the mod is probably just a bit of clearance work on the stock towers as the flms have a recessed area for the mounts to.. mount. After a bit of digging, it seems the manual was posted on the old FLM.com website, but that is now gone and replaced with the .net site- no manuals that I can see but it would be worth emailing them probably still. I do like Linc's chassis alot though, but it does require alot of custom work vs just bolting together parts as such. |
I will send them a mail about it now.
I just wanna try these badboys. Some say they suck for bashing other love 'm so I'm gonna find it out myself. |
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Yep, poop all over Neil. Sounds like fun! I know you like my chassis, cause I am great and you know that too, bow down to my excellence!!! Anyways, I understand for packaging purposes why the flm chassis is the way it is. Without really redesigning the way the steering works, the front plate has to be where it is. And it has to be pretty big to allow for mounting the brake servo as well. This chassis is really design to convert a nitro savage, not stretch out a flux and allow for inside the tvp battery mounting. I would suggest exploring other options for stretching your flux, or buy this chassis and other parts from a nitro chassis and make another truck. I do not think the flux motor will clear the flm motor mount without grinding the fins off the bottom/sides. My design was setup for a smaller range of battery sizes, motor brakes, and a slightly changed steering setup, and will yield a higher cg (not much) due to the battery tray height. Looking back on what I have done I would almost go with a xtm mammoth truck body, as it is cheap, and has a long wheelbase. Then make the chassis as long as possible to fit that body. Leave the flux motor mount and rear center driveshaft, and add all of the extra length in front of the tranny. This should leave enough room behind the steering cranks to allow for a decent selection of lipos to fit and the tray could sit lower than the top of the bellcranks. The steering servo may have to be mounted to a riser on one side of the battery tray, or maybe laid down. That would be the harder part. The chassis setup of the savage does not really lend itself to a good layout, just too narrow. |
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Does anyone have a link to the manual or could anyone upload one?
I mailed FLM but no response so far. Also found some old download links to the .com site but they don't work anymore. |
Motor in motormount:
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_oXx8nzDDQME/S1...d/P1040394.JPG Can't use the support brace that's on the kit. The motor itself barely fits, tried to make a photo of it: http://lh4.ggpht.com/_oXx8nzDDQME/S1...d/P1040398.JPG Build chassis for some pics: http://lh5.ggpht.com/_oXx8nzDDQME/S1...d/P1040351.JPG Just drove it around a little. This thing keeps giving me smiles :oops: More pictures : http://picasaweb.google.nl/nardcox86...angenFLM49000# EDIT: Why doesn't the forum resize the pictures automatically :) ? EDIT: Concerning Linc weight distribution issue: http://lh4.ggpht.com/_oXx8nzDDQME/S1...d/P1040404.JPG Curious to see how it handles jumps. EDIT: Cool fact: I was worried about the added weight : http://lh5.ggpht.com/_oXx8nzDDQME/S1...d/P1040317.JPG http://lh6.ggpht.com/_oXx8nzDDQME/S1...d/P1040399.JPG 4007 (stock) vs 3777 (XL) :D EDIT : Some outside pics: http://lh3.ggpht.com/_oXx8nzDDQME/S1...d/P1040410.JPG http://lh4.ggpht.com/_oXx8nzDDQME/S1...d/P1040411.JPG http://lh4.ggpht.com/_oXx8nzDDQME/S1...d/P1040422.JPG |
Well, thats damn near perfect 50/50 weight distribution- how was it before with the stock chassis?
Looks nice and tidy, just needs a bigger shell now :lol: As for pictures, best solution is to use photobucket or imageshack etc and manually enter the maximum size as 600x800 pixels, unless you can do/post thumbnail links to the original fullsize images. Doesnt matter that much, just annoys the guys with little 15" monitors.. :lol: |
Yeah, I was also really surprised by the weight distribution. Maybe I will take the car to a nice jumping location to see how it goes. Will post a movie when I go.
I made some new holes so the body fits better, but an XL shell would indeed be the best / nicest solution :). I use Picasa for the pictures. I can upload them at a smaller resolution when uploading them from the program. Will just make a separate folder for RCM pictures :) 15'' ... does that still exist :D 24'' double screens FTW !! |
Wish I could just get the motor mount...
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