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What to do? What to do?
Have you ever decided on something ordered parts and then changed your mind? My indecisiveness has brought me to this point. What's your opinion on the following chassis layouts.
Idea #1 http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/pict...&pictureid=513 This one is pretty straight foward. Batteries one side, motor the other. Cog is just slightly to the battery side and I can keep the 6s as one whole pack giving the option of 5s capability. I will need a custom shaft for this. Motor faces foward too. #2 http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/pict...&pictureid=514 This has symetry, I like symetry but it means I have to split my 6s down to 3s. Making a chassis/bracing around this will be easy and it all fits neatly in the existing footprint. I will need a custom shaft for this too. #3 http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/pict...&pictureid=515 This one I guess is a standard truggy setup. Batteries next to the diff, pushing the motor further out and balancing the chassis better. I can make this work with available shafts. Downside is the motor faces backwards and it will be the hardest to make chassis/bracing around it. This one will be easiest to fit the steering servo. What do you think? What would your decision be? Or suggestions? |
I would opt for either 1 or 3. The battery may be a tad heavier than the motor, but it really has very little impact as long as they are fairly close in weight. Option 1 gives you the room to install the battery a little closer to the centerline for even closer weight distribution, just not sure if having the weight so far forward might affect jumping.
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I also think #1 or #3 - but where are you putting the ESC?
BTW, what truck is that? |
i agree with the above 2, #1 or #3 .Jthiessen--i think its an LST2 or one of its variations.--josh
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Personally
Personally I like the second one. I am also a man of Symitry. I like to see things balanced and even as much as possible. Of course I am used to splitting the batts with the EMaxx setup anyway. Of course the real test will be in you trying each one out and seeing just how it handles for you and which one you like the best. Its nice that you have opitons to play with. You can always create a raised mount for the ESC and put it just about anywhere you like on any of the setups. Please share your results once you decide.
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Yes it is an lst2 with a hot racing chassis. I would like to try them all Jerry and give you the results but at the rate i get things done results will be next year, lol. I am also pedantic about symetry but my soldering still needs practice so the less I have to do the better.
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I too like symmetry, which is why V1 of my Hyper8 used a twin pack setup with the motor up and in the middle. But, I found the added wiring to be a PITA, not to mention more things to go wrong. A single pack setup is simply cleaner and easier to maintain IMO.
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I have two buggies setup differently, one with a single battery setup and another with dual battery setup. I like the single battery setup for its simplicity and ease of operation. Balance is negligible.
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I have owned a 3905 and a truggy and never over analyzed the difference between the single and twin packs because i just accepted they were different cars. This is my first self-modified car, now I have a choice!
Symmetry is so good in the minds eye but the practicality of a single pack I think wins. Thanks for the reply guys :great: |
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I thought dual batts is the way to go, but I've absolutely found no difference when I used 6s on one side and a 1950/10 on the other side along with the other electrics.
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The steering turnbuckles I have no idea but I did get a dynomite steering assembly. There's not much left on it that is stock- shocks, bulks, diff cases and a few minor plastics (I may change the skids to cf). Oh, and the body :lol: |
I'm a little frustrated with progress on this, especially since I started asking questions back then. :diablo: As much as I like making stuff I don't think I will do another conversion myself for some time.
So I thought I would show you what I have so far anyway. I started with some CF angle and glued stuck them together. This will form the chassis and battery tray in one. http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/pict...&pictureid=716 As a result I have had to make more mods to make it all sweet (more of which to come). http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/pict...&pictureid=715 http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/pict...&pictureid=717 http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/pict...&pictureid=714 http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/pict...&pictureid=713 http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/pict...&pictureid=719 http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/pict...&pictureid=711 http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/pict...&pictureid=710 Most of what is in those pics is just placed together with no screws (including where the chassis joins to the front assembly). I have shown a castle 1520 in there but I will be using a 1524 1y when I get it going. I will also fit a length of aluminium between the 2 sides as a kind of a backbone. Obviously the steering still needs to be sorted out, I have some parts on order and will need to make a top plate to mount the servo. Final pics next year :na: |
Wow,very slick setup! Are you gonna run some kind skid in between the two sides to block up the middle? Or just leave the shafts out in the open?--Josh
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thats one heckava truck you got there. as what big steel says, i was also wondering if you were gonna have skids to cover up that open middle slot.
but having sum skids might cover up that sexy carbon fiber. what i did what one of my carbon fiber chassis was to cut out a thin piece of clear plastic and screw it onto the chassis, so this way it protects the cf and you can still see the the cf. ps. you should def. get a new body for this awesome rig. |
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