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Kontronik Jazz 55-10-32 for 8s buggy;-)
Hello fellow rc-addicts!
I bought a used Kontronik Jazz 55-10-32 today, hoping to do an HV buggy setup. I have been reading about HV setups for 1/8 buggies and trucks, and I have seen several people have success with and recomend the jazz. Othello among others. If I have understood what I've read and heard, the jazz can be used in cars with pistol-radios without a "pistix"? I will need a bec, which HV bec do you recomend? I only know of the CC bec-pro. Or am I better off with a reciever lipo? Is there anything else I need to know? The jazz will be used in my tekno eight with a medusa 36-60-1300kv on 8s. I have also bought a used MBX6 to connvert, maybe I will leave my tekno 8ight on 6s and give the HV setup to the mugen. Thanks for any help or advice. Thomas Garvik from Norway:smile: |
1300kV would be maybe a little too much for 8S 60mm motor no ? Put a small pinion !
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Solid controller and a 1000-1200Kv would be ideal. I used the 40A 10S version in my heavy truggy and it lasted a long time. The only thing that I need to do to get it going again is solder a new capacitor and the + wire. My 55A never had any issues and they are very under rated controllers (A heat sink is recommended though to keep temps down specially with the high starting power a vehicle needs). I would recommend a RX pack though. I use one with all my HV set ups. I just wish Kontronik would have the same features as most car controllers do nowadays.
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Thanks very much for quick input!
I am happy to hear that the esc is good for cars and pistol radios, even though I was fairly sure, I wasn't certain. Needing a pistix, that aparantly is not easy to get anymore, would have been a bummer to say the least. Thats why I didn't get a castle esc, even though I got offered a good deal. Luckily I got an even better deal on the jazz:yes: 60 dollars max in norwegian kroners. I know medusa 36-60 1300kv is a bit high kv for 8s, but so is 36-60 1600kv for 6s and that setup works perfectly in the tekno 8ight now. Its geared low at 13/48, with 12/50 as the lowest option. Using the speed calc I found that with gearing at 13/48 both setups give the same speed at 40mph. Thats why I think it might work, after all people run their castle/neu 2200 and 2650kv too on 6s. Now thats madness IMO, but madness seem like fun I admit that:yipi: Also, I have the 1300kv on the way, it should have been here before the 1600kv.... I ordered the 1300kv and the new one piece, 3-shoe clutch adapter w. shoes, bells and all from impakt first. Then I was not sure if it would maybe be slow, so I ordered a 1600kv too from mike the day after the 1300kv shipped and figured I would always need a motor. Nice to get one more while they last too. I hope the setup will work, I have some help from the motor-mount transfering alot of heat from the motor and using the whole chassi as a heatsink. The mechanical brakes with 0% brake set on the esc/motor will help ease the load too. And I imagine the clutch makes accelerating from standstill easier as well. I don't know if it will make that much difference, but I have a feeling these things are part of why the current setup performs so well and stays cool. Even if it all works out, I will still be looking at used motors in norway for a milder kv. I remember seeing a medusa 850kv, and a 1515/2Y/F sell not long ago. Long post, I appreciate any input, thanks, Thomas Garvik |
Solid piece of hardware. Mine even worked without heatsink used in my 3.9-4Kg Buggy with a Neu 1512/2Y (1400kv). With heavier vehicles a small heatsink is recommended. I fed it with 9-12s A123 (11-12s with a Neu 1515/2Y - 1100kv).
A more up to date software would make it even better as Lutach already mentioned. I would not worry using a 1300kv motor with 8s lipo (as long as you can gear your car for higher motor rpms). My old Crono buggy used a 52t spur (more likely to be found in a truggy nowadays) and had an overall gearing of 1:13.2 with a 13t pinion. Perfect in conjunction with a high revving motor in a buggy. Tons of power, low amps and long runtimes. My Neu 1512 with 1400kv reached well into the 42000-45000rpm range and stayed reasonably cool. |
I have read a little bit about programming the jazz, and one thing I notice is that the manual is very hard to understand. I see one needs a jumper to program it manualy, I didn't get one. Is it supposed to short the three pins? I could make my own then...
I hope its not too much to ask, but could any of you kontonik experts write up a quick set-up guide for lipo powered cars, I tried searching but I only found quides for heli setups. Thanks for you help! Thomas Garvik |
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Programming sequence of Car-Mode Race: (Mode 6) Affix the jumper on any two of the 3 pins. For an audible signal connect the motor to the Jazz. Turn the Tx and the Rx. Set the throttle to motor-off position (middle position). Connect the battery. Wait 2 sec. or until 3 signals. Remove the jumper. You should now here this signal sequence: 1 signal, 2 signals, 3 signals (descending) and 6 signals. Set the throttle to full speed (front position). You will then here 3 descending signals. Now set the throttle to EMF-brake position (back position) You will again here 3 descending signals. Monitoring output and 6 signals. Ready - Disconnect the battery. Programming sequence of Car-Mode Back and Forth (Mode 8) Affix the jumper on any two of the 3 pins. For an audible signal connect the motor to the Jazz. Turn the Tx and the Rx. Set the throttle to motor-off position (middle position). Connect the battery. Wait 2 sec. or until 3 signals. Remove the jumper. You should now here this signal sequence: 1 signal, 2 signals, 3 signals (descending) and 8 signals. Set the throttle to full speed (front position). You will then here 3 descending signals. Now set the throttle to EMF-brake position (back position) You will again here 3 descending signals. Monitoring output and 8 signals. Ready - Disconnect the battery. Lipo Mode (Mode 9) This mode is programmed additional to change the under voltage disconnection to 3V/cell when using Lipo batteries. This mode does not change any other feature programmed before. During programming wait on 9 signals, all others like programming mode 6 and 8. Mode 9 only works if any mode except mode 1 has been programmed before. To avoid misunderstandings the start up signal changes to 3 signals, 3 signals when the Lipo-Mode is active. Caution: The programming of Lipo-Mode enables the under voltage disconnection also in modes where it is normally disables! |
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Thanks! I remember reading about a usb link for the jazz, so I can program more advanced features and see clearly what settings I have? Where can this be found?
TG |
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Do you know where they sell these cards?
Thanks for all your help, Thomas G |
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http://www.kontronik.com/index.php?o...mid=62&lang=en http://www.kontronik.com/images/stor...g_PROGDISC.pdf http://www.icare-rc.com/kontronik.htm |
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