New 1940 - 3 questions
 

Just got my 1940 hi amp from Mike and I need some help before I start the install.

1 - the motor has three thick copper wires coming out of the back for connection to the ESC. Is this motor designed only for a direct solder connection? I also bought the 3.5mm connectors, however they don't seem big enough for the copper motor wires. I did a search on the board, and there seems to be a mixed opinion on direct solder vs plugs....

2 - Do I need to grind a flat spot on the shaft or can I just scuff the shaft so the grub screw has some grip?

3 - With a 51t spur, and UE 8 spyder diffs, what pinion should I start out with? I believe I have a 13, 14, 15 ,16 and 18 tooth mod1 pinion stockpile to pick from. I was just going to start in the middle with 15 and see what happens.

Thanks for your help.. I'll post pics when everything is up and running!

Steve

You need 5,5 mm connector's. If you don't want to use connector's, use the female plug and solder both wire's deeply into the plug. Don't forget to put on some heatshrink, and don't be gentle with the solder. You want a good strong connection.

What turn motor do you have? Cell count and tires size helps as well. How much does the truck weight? I like to flat spot the shaft. YOu don't have to take a lot off but a little.

Yeah, it is designed for a direct soldering connection. No need for plugs.

the flatspot is a thing you need to do for sure.

About your gearing, we need a bit more information, like Coolhand says.

I should have included that info! Cell count will be 14 cells, tires will rotate between zombie maxx on dish and maxx size crimefighters on dish. I have no real basis of comparison for my truck's weight, but I would assume its moderately heavy - its a lightning chassis with racer x, GA 7075 bulks, UE diffs and cases, single speed.. I vary the skids between GA 3mm (heavy) and Gorilla maxx titanium.

Regarding the grinding, do I need to take special precautions regarding the metal shavings and the motor?

Also, Serum can you descrive how you would actually do a direct solder connection? Here's a pic of what I'm trying to join...

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...3/IMG_3965.jpg

Thanks for the info guys

Strip the wires from the controller a bit longer, then solder them together nicely and cover them with shrink.

Do you use the 2 speed transmission?

I would gear it for 30-35 mph.

I will recommend getting copper tube, from hardware store, and cutting 3 10mm long sections from it. Put motor wire and controller wire inside the copper tube, crimp it and solder after together. You will get connection with good conductivity and strong to wistand vibrations and possible high temperatures.

Artur

The 5.5mm gold connectors are rated at 200amps continuous - thats about 3 times more than standard Deans plugs. Personally I prefer plugs as its easier to reverse the motor direction, and it will be much easier to run the controller/motor with a different controller/motor in the future.

When grinding the flatspot on the shaft, get a plastic bag and pierce the shaft through the bag so that the bearing is covered. You might also need to use sticky tape to ensure the bearing is well covered.

Well if you run the stock diff gears a 15 tooth or 14 for a little more run time.
If you have a buggy diffs or ue a 16 or 18 for more run time.