Slipper issues
 

Issues during assembly:-
1) Slipper pads didn't fit and they required a fair bit of filing
2) Burs around the outside of the thrust washers ..more filing
3) Was very difficult to get the pin in the spur gear side diff cup, there just wasn't adequate room. Apparently you can do this before screwing that side cover on but that isn't the order that the manual tells you to do it in and i assumed the manual was in that order for a reason.

After assembly i've had the diff sitting around on my workbench. Hasn't been used yet but it has been leaking a fair bit (100K fluid). Finally got around to taking the diff side cover off to see if i can fix. Cover was on nice and tight and gasket fitted correctly. On close examination i could see 3 things that might be causing the leakage. I can feel very slight burs in the screw holes on diff side cover plate, the screw hole threads in the diff casing have raised up slightly on the surface under tightening (they weren't countersunk to prevent this); and finally the outside edge of the diff casing mating surface i can easily see that its not flat\true where the adjustment ring thread ends.

So i'm thinking that i'm not too keen on trying to file those surfaces to ensure they are flat. Not sure how to proceed atm... Could be that none of those thing are susbstantial enought to affect the fit and i'm missing something so might just re-orient the cover and try again. Don't have much hope for this approach though.

wow thats a lot of issues...

Did anyone else experience these problems?

none with thr 3 I have. You might have a manufacturing defect though it's unlikely. You might want to email Mike for his advice.

I've seen ppl post about 1) and 3) before.

Well i reoriented the cover, screwed it back on and left it overnite and all today while i was at work. No leaks that i can see. Another idea i had was that maybe i just overfilled it a touch and pressure was forcing it out. I was keeping this in mind though when i first built it and it looked ok.

lets hope all the problems resolve them selves... I was more worried about the leaking issue...

Sorry to read that you had a couple assembly issues, _dV. When properly assembled, the diff should not leak - any leak on the slipper side would be very bad and would create excess slip. If the diff has leaked on the slipper side, I suggest a thorough cleaning to remove any oil residue that will prevent a consistent slip action. The included blue gaskets should fit ell and when properly seated should notleak at all. I usually seat thegaskets with a light coat of grease when I apply it to the diff cup during assembly. this ensure that the gasket stays put as well as making a great seal. I liberally grease the o-rings and diff out drives as well during initial assembly. It is likely that perhaps a piece of foreign material or some other issue may have prevented a flat seal on your initial assembly, but leaks should definately not be a problem. The entire assembly is designed to work together - there are many components, so a detailed approach is required when assembling it initially.

As far as the diff parts being flat/true - I believe you may have an optical illusion, as I am sure the parts are all flat, true and concentric to each other. The threads will create an illusion because they are spiraled around the cup, but the threads are cnc cut in the same operation as the cup itself, ensuring concentricity.
The slip pads themselves may require minor filing to seat properly - we do sort through them, but the manufacturing process and material used dictates the tolerance so minor fitting may be required. I am not sure if this could be considered a problem, though - more like a necessity for the application(like using threadlock - sometimes it must be done to prevent a lost screw).
The inner cross pin - as you said is easy if done before the diff cup is installed, but difficult if done afterwards. I will look into amending the instructions if this is a point of confusion moving forward.
Hopefully you have it worked out, but if there are still issues, I will gladly help you get it tuned and tweaked to your liking. :)

I've had a few test runs with the slipper in my new build now. Had a lot of slippage initially and i tightened it up a couple of times. Was much better but still slipping too much and i had just about flattened out the wave springs.

Took the slipper apart and scuffed the pads and ring and put back together. A little better again but still not there. I could try to tighten more but it's getting difficult. I think whats happening is because there are two spring joins (and three wave troughs) and i have flattened out the springs it might be pressing unevenly on the pads.

Mike, i had a look and the springs aren't listed separate. Can i buy another spring? This would give me greater pressure and ensure that the pressure is even. Hopefully will do the trick. I'm sure i read that someone else suggested or did this but i don't remember where...

It's there, it just doesn't have a picture when it's listed with other stuff.
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...yspring&cat=41

Thanks

if mike sold the kit with two springs, then it should work with two springs as he has tested it that way... Maybe there is something wrong with it if you are having so many problems???

Im wondering if the leaking you saw has possibly conaminated the slipper pads and is causing excessive slipping. I know on my 2 slipperential units I can easliy tighten it down to the point where it is basically locked up and only the very hardest of drivetrain jars would make it slip at all. I seem to get a nice range of adjustment in both my buggy and my truggy.

I would take the slipper unit apart and try cleaning the slipper pads and the friction plate to remove any silicon residue that may be there from the initial leaking.

It wasn't leaking on that side. I'm using it in an XL sized Savage that's fairly highly geared. I've seen it have to be tightened it right up before.

2nd pic in this post
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...7&postcount=20

3 springs should hopefully get me there. I have some lower gearing ordered as well.

Got new slipper parts today to try. I ordered a new adjustment ring too as the thread had stripped where the tightening tool goes. Unfortunately the new adjustment ring doesnt have a cut in it or the hole for the tightening bolt or for the tightening tool. Its just one continuous circle.

Mike, could you drop me a PM please.

wish you luck with getting it to work! sounds like its only given you problems so far.

I think I replied to an email from you regarding this issue. :)