Toughest Savage XL sized bodies?
 

Allright, so im trying to narrow down what bodies I can use on my new Flux build with TLM's XL chassis. From what I can tell, its either the Proline Chevy Silverado body

http://prolineracing.com/bodies/2007...-revo-3-3-mgt/

Or the standard HPI Gigante body. Either apparently will look good on the XL frame from what i've seen. However, i'm just torn with getting a "chevy" designed body when I'd rather have a generic looking one. I really like the fact that Prolines have .060 inch lexan vs HPI's .040 inch for the gigante.

I've also thought about putting on SC body but there doesn't seem to be many long enough to cover that back rear end. Otherwise, it just looks plain retarded with the extended rear end sticking out back with no body covering it up. But I want something that won't fall apart quickly either during bash sessions. And no, I AM NOT getting any of the Ford Proline bodies, I hate Ford with a passion and its not going on my Flux

If you are going for a SC body, try a SC8 body; SC8 is a RC8T (truggy) with RC8B (buggy) suspension arms so it should fit and its .06 lexan. RC8T and Xl have just about the same wheelbase. Otherwise the 10th scale bodies are too small for the XL.

I'll have to see if I saved any of the pics of the XL with the SC8 body when I was trying it out on my RC8T.

I'm thinking of maybe just bagging the whole XL sized upgrade....

There is a dearth of bodies for the XL for sure. You could always go "half-way"... add the wider axles but keep it with X length; at least it'll be a bit more stable.

I'd go with an SC body. I used the Gigante on mine, and it cracked right off the bat in the front corner on of the hood - and not on a real hard hit.

I'm almost starting to think that the thinner bodies that flex more and have more give to them are actually going to last longer....

I'm painting up an SC10 body right now for the Flux, I'll take a pic of it so you can see the length. Someone else on here had a SC body on thier XL a couple months ago. They look good.

Can you give me the link of that SC body? Or pics of yours?

I'm still using my stock one with a few additional holes in it:

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_oXx8nzDDQME/TH...2/P1070012.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_oXx8nzDDQME/TH...2/P1070014.JPG

It's not the prettiest body anymore but it's did it's duty and more. I did tape the inside immediately and I guess that helped a lot.

This thread might be helpful?

Btw Nard, those wheels look badass.

I forgot to add that the body is from Jul 2009 .. so more than a year of bashing on it.

Those are Axial Oversize 8 spoke wheels with Proline 40 serie BowTies. Recently I was racing on a track with my MBX6Te and broke a front arm (no spares so it was game over) ... So I lowered the shocks on the Flux and put the BowTies on. The car handled suprisingly well :)

nylon roll cage is the only way to go if your bashing... the bodys just dont last...

have a look into making your own, i'm about to purchase some nylon rod and look at making then for most my cars...

check out these: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/HPI-savage-25-...ts_Accessories

look really easy to make, and from the video... they look plenty strong!

the nylon is dirt cheap... i say go for it!

Man - I've been meaning to try making some of those for a couple years now. Just keep forgetting about them.

They are ok, but not great. Welding is pretty sloppy. I could never get the set I had to fit on the XL, even though he was sure it would although did fit on an X version.

Probably just as easy to make your own.

thats why i suggested making your own :P

those ones are a rip off, so expensive for cents worth of nylon...

I've been looking at those from way back when. The shapes he's making them in have gotten way better, OTOH, they are way overpriced, and more importantly, I don't think I can order something from someone who writes everything in l33t sp3@k. I just can't support that level of jackassery. ;)

Otherwise they look simple to make. The only hard part is the body mounts, but I've been thinking of some otherways to do it for a BL, as you don't need the cage to be so wide to protect pipes, fuel tanks and other stuff if all the electronics are embedded inside the tvps. I was just thinking of slotting the ends of the nylon and slip them over the edge of the tvps, then run a screw thru to secure the connection. Optimally, the rod would sit flush to the tvp so all the force is transferred evenly.

If I had a welder, all you would need to do is cut some alu pipe and weld to a small alu plate and then just drill out a couple holes for the mounting screws (all that the MA1|\|5T guy does. Not sure if this way is better or not. Puts a lot of force on the mounting bracket, but would allow more lateral flex (bows out on impact.)

Either way, for $200 shipped for their cage, its worth a shot


I am suprized they don't have more XL bodies out. This is a v. popular vehicle to support. I know you can stick on some other smaller bodies or the Revo, LST, etc. but they don't look right imo bc the wheelbase is too short.

ahhh! slotting the end!

i was thinking about just cutting a section out and then screwing into the flat from the tvp.. but cutting a slot would be much better, there shouldnt be any risk of side impacts cracking the nylon that way!

gonna do a cage on my rc18t, before i do one for my stadium truck and hyper 7, all will be nice and simple, just to allow me to run without a body from time to time :)