![]() |
5t savage project ponderings...
So I have had a savage 5t chassis laying around here for a while, and was thinking it would be a nice project to use the new castle 5th scale stuff in. Would run some moab xl tires I have on std mt wheels, for the right look. Tires would have to be sectioned, but I have done this before.
Currently I have: 5t chassis, modded for a 1/4 scale servo couple of nitro savvy transmissions Proline 5t body 8s worth of 5300 30c lipos lots of al stock wheels and tires Ok, so here is my idea. Use the new 2080 cc motor with mike's mod 1.5 pinions meshing with a mod 1.5 spur in a custom center bulkhead design. Run dogbones front and rear to the diffs. Would likely use Cen diffs, as they need to be sturdy. Would also use GH al bulkheads, so no flex issues. No center slipper, so I am hoping that the 8mm motor shaft and a 10mm output shaft off the spur will hold up. Motor would be held in via a mount system very similar to the flux. 2 clamps would fit over the motor, and bolt to a platform between the tvps. The clamps would be bolted to slotted holes for mesh adjustment. Center drive would be located in the center area of the chassis, with the motor in the back and the lipos in the front inside of the tvps. Making the clamps would be simple, as the cc motor is just about 2.25" diameter, a metal hole saw in the drill press could cut the hole out f suitable al stock, then notch the side and drill thru and tap to allow the clamp to compress around the can. Pretty simple, and I can make it. Might get the machinist to make the center drive bulks, as they need to be recessed to holfd bearings, and everything needs to be parallel and square. Ok, so tell me what I have not thought about, or what I have wrong... |
Oh yeah, spur will be 303 stainless, 50t mod 1.5 from sdp-si. It does have a setscrew, and should wear ok against the rcm pinions. Depending on how I mount the motor I may not be able to go any smaller with the spur, as the large motor, plus about 20-25mm for the motor clamps thickness and the platform will cause issues with contact with the center drive outdrive cups.
Hmm, need to do some more match and see if this will work... |
I would just use the flux bulletproof diffs over the Cen units, i think they are just as strong if not stronger and are available everywhere. Cen diffs are much harder to come by I think
|
Quote:
|
For sure. I only know of ONE HPI BP diff failure (that i have read about anyway) and it was just one tooth on the ring-gear that broke off.
|
Weren't people swapping to the CEN diffs before the BP came out? Either way, Jayhay(?) on this forum runs BP diffs in a big db17 savage with big wheels and he raves about them. Pretty sure he has alum bulks though too.
I was sad to see this one get shelved last year, hope to see it completed. 2028 power tho? :gasp: You're a sick puppy! |
reads like a well planed project, most of the parts you need to make are pretty simple and it doesnt sound like you are trying to reinvent the wheel so it should be pretty quick from start to finish, i look foward to seeing your progess
|
Thanks for the words of encouragement guys.
Thinking the mod 1.5 gears may be a problem, but I do want something stronger than mod 1 and the availability and price of pinions from Mike makes this project alot easier on the wallet. That is always a concern for me, try to keep the costs down and the inovation up! Can anyone give me a dimension between the tvps on a savage? All of them should be the same. |
Just purchased a pair of GH bulks and integy rear carriers... Time to score the BP diffs and figure out the dogbone situation.
|
TCS has the best price on diffs, but you can get the whole bulkhead with the BP ones off ebay for about 35-40$.
I think 2028 will be way overkill for the Savage, 1717 would be enough but it's only 45k RPM. Also check the Woodster 5T body, cheaper than PL and more durable: http://www.davesmotors.com/s.nl/c.88...t.A/id.7855/.f http://woodsterlidz.com/index.html |
Quote:
I will try ebay, as i need some bulkheads as well. |
Ok, so people seem to think the 1717 will do. More questions:
Will the flux tranny be able to handle the 1717 in a 5t chassis? I see that hpi makes an upgrade for the top tranny gears, good idea? My actually hpi 5t chassis places the tranny right in the middle, and the motor behind it. I have the flm nitro to electric motor mount, and will have to make a new front upright for it to interface with the 1717, as well as a rear cradle that has the correct radius to match the 1717 can diameter. Pretty easy there. My 5t chassis is setup with a 1/4 scale servo, and I would like to run a single 6s pack infront of the tranny, behind / above the steering posts. |
I only run 6S, but they handle it fine. Mine weights in about 17lbs. What I kept breaking was the axles.
As to motor, I'm swapping over to a 1520 with a center diff. Then again I'm only planning on 6S with mine. Would definetly run the HD gears for the tranny. I had a lot of wear with the standard stuff and switched over and have had minimal wear thus far. My current setup has a single 5S and 6S batteries (see my thread here for pics) inside the TVPs up front between the battery box and transmission. For the center diff conversion I'm switching to going with two 3S on each side to lower the CoG. The battery tray does need to setup rather high to allow clearance for the front dogbone. Quote:
|
i say do the 2026, much better project, 1717 was last years toy, go big or go home, this is rc monster after all
|
Yeah, the big CC motor would be cool to do.
But I found out some rather depressing info today. Decided that I need to put some bulks on the 5t chassis and see what it would look like mocked up under the proline 5t body. Well I did that and ended up with a 19" wheelbase. The proline body really needs around 21-21.5" wb to look right. Will probably go with the redcat rampage body, as it will fit the 19" WB better. Also had some issues with the rear hubs. They are atomic brand, and did not include new lower hingepins. They do have spacers, but the pin is too long as the stock carrier sits outside the arm, and this hub sits inside. I guess I will have to find some sort of suitable pin that is the correct lenght... BS if you ask me. |
| All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:13 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions Inc.