lightening emaxxs
 

Hiya guys, new to this site, some queries below;

Has anybody taken the front driveshafts out of their emaxx and noticed a difference?
I've got some proline velocity rims and bow tyres in the attemp to make the thing a bit quicker and i've removed the front driveshafts just to see the difference. I'd like to go brushless but cost stops me. Any other ideas on lightening a emaxx for some extra speed and acceleration?

You might get a marginal speed increase by removing the front drive train (diffs, sriveshaft etc.), but I don't think it will be worth it, as it won't be nearly as driveable in 2wd. Wheels and tires are a big impact (you already did this). You could also drop to 4 shocks and throw on a more aerodynamic body. All this won't add up to a whole lot. Going to 7 cell packs will gain you a decent amount of speed as well.

UE titanium CVD's are 6 grams lighter than stock per corner. 2wd you'll find, as mike said uncontrollable. The rear two wheels will most likley spin, baloon, while you still don't get anywhere.

4 Shocks?
 

When u say 4 shocks instead of eight, do you mean something similar to the team losi ones, or are there others you can recomend?

Thanks for the help also, rebuilding will comence once i finish................how many assignments was it.

Matt

Guys that are running 4 shocks are using the Big Bores or RacerX.

Just use a heavier oil with four shocks and a stiffer spring.

I find that if you do that with stock a-arms it can cause them to break more easy by putting more pressure on 1 side. It broke my stock shocks and a-arms. The E-maxx will never be a light truck with its design. Just get some 3300 GP 7 cells and that wil lbe plenty of speed.

I dont know about that, my truck is mostly stock, not for long though, and weighs almost two pounds less than stock with a few minor custom upgrades and 4 shocks with trinity blues and 50 wt oil, it runs loke a charm on my track.

look at all your steel rotating parts.....then do an internet search for anything titanium or aluminum. look for lightened gears, lightened shafts. what about the gorillamaxx chasiss, seems like it might be a little lighter. titanium turnbuckles...

also you might want to lock it into second gear and remove the shifting servo, and put a spool in the rear if your racing. also if will balance the weight a little more front/rear if you simple turn the tranny 180 degrees. if you do that you will also have to flip the gearboxes 180 degrees so it doesnt take off in reverse. also, you will save alot of weight if you do alot of small things like battery straps instead of the stock bars, trim the bottom of the body post, trim the skids, not using alot of aluminum, remove the plastic gear cover, ect... the list goes on.

Well, the biggest hit is changing tires. You can shave of a big fat 1 lbs+ on changing tires...

CF gmaxx chassis has got to be lighter than stock. A lot of unlimited engineering stuff is lighter and stronger than stock, but it comes with a price.

It is 2oz lighter than stock. I believe most of the ue stuff is heavier than stock, but a lot stroner. The titanium cvds/hinge pins/turnbucles are lighter - but not by much.

My RTRace e-maxx weighs in at around 8 pounds, Ready to run. It is all aluminum, too(g-maxx). Lipo batteries help keep the weight low, but I think I could get an e-maxx into the 6 pound range ready to run If I tried hard enough (although I wouldn' want to race it against the 12 pound trucks on the track, as it would get bullied off the track pretty easily!). G-maxx single speed conversion(and losing the extra servo and linkage)/wheels/tires/batteries/g-maxx parts are the key to keeping it light. I think a 6 pound emaxx would only need stock drivetrain parts as well, so this adds to the low weight.

Stupid question - but what do you weigh your trucks on?