Need brushless buggy advice
 

Hello All,

I've been frustrated with the diff reliability of my E-revo, so I'm looking to get a new 1/8 brushless buggy--likely either the Losi 8ight-E 2.0 or a Mugen MBX6 ECO, for durability reasons. The RC8be also looks looking interesting, but I'm not clear if it would hold-up as well as the other two from what I have read. Parts for me would almost always have to come mail-order.

I would love to race it, but around here (Portland, OR) it's only something you can do a few months of the year. So realistically, I will be bashing in grass fields or doing high speed runs down my street.

For high-speed runs / street bashing, I'm thinking 70-80MPH would be a blast. My XXXT on 3S w/Mamba 5700 was a lot of fun--looking for something at least that fast--getting rid of that because the motor is too exposed in high speed crashes. 3S on the 5700 got too hot, so street bashing was short & sweet, at least in summer months.

For the motor+ESC I was thinking of picking up a Castle 1518/1800kv w/Mamba Monster, to run on 6S.

For racing, I would probably use a 4S pack. Would 6S be too much for the motor + ESC in grass (heat) ? If I was down on power I would try 5S, but I'm not that great of a racer.

I'm not sure what size batteries these battery mounts can take in terms of a large (6500?) 5S or 6S pack. Would something like 138mm x 45mm x 72mm (2xMaxamps 6500 3s) fit or would it have to be smaller?

Given the above, is there something better than a 1/8 buggy for my usages?

Lets tackle the battery issue first. The Rc-monster battery trays for the above vehicles will hold just about any length battery, ditto for the Losi conversion tray. The Associated conversion is limited to the standard ROAR approved hardcase battery length. I forget the dimensions of those but they are shorter than other availible Lipos.

Buggy. I've had an RC8e, and a Losi 8ight 1.0. I found both to be about the same durability wise, but I like the 8ight just a little better handling wise. Wish I still had it, but I moved away from buggies and then came back to them, but more cheaply this time with an LX1e.

Which I run with a cc1518 (1800kv) on 5s. Currently geared for 50mph (with no tire ballooning in the speed calc) and it runs cool, even in grass. I had a CC blower around so I put it on, but there's no holes in the body (which fits pretty tight so not much airflow) and even in grass my temps stay under 110 on motor (esc is in 120's) after a 15-20 min run. Some might say its more motor than you need for a race buggy, and it is, but its an awesome bashing motor. It pulls my gearing no problem and shreds the tires at any speed. I'd run it on 4s if I was going to race it.

You might be able to set it up for 65mph on 6s and have the temps stay in check while racing on 4s too. But usually thats not the case and a pinion swap is usually required when changing the cell count that much. A bigger motor like this might not mind, but you're going to have to test it out. If you go with an RCM mount, swapping between your track/bashing pinion and the extreme speed pinion is pretty quick and painless. Anyway, hope this helps a little.

Is there any problem with battery depth? Does anyone have the internal dimensions of the battery trays? RCM has some of theirs listed, but I was asking about the factory ones. Or would I be better off with a converted nitro + RCM?

The other two options if the 1518 isn't good enough (grass bashing), then there is the 1520 & the 1717. Will the 1717 even fit? Anyone try it? I haven't yet tried an RC that has too much power :)

Would I be better off with a 1/8 truggy instead for space reasons? Perhaps a truggy body on a buggy?

If you're just going to be doing grass bashing, street runs and occasional racing, buggy is probably your best choice. Truggies are great, but they don't go as fast, as easily and as cheaply as a buggy. And a truggy won't have a bigger battery tray. I'd do some searching of the manufacturers websites and their forums for the exact battery tray sizes.

1717 has a larger diameter and will probably hit the chassis in any buggy or truggy unless you add a spacer under the center diff to raise it up. 1520 might limit your gearing options a little in a buggy due to it's lower Kv, unless you run 6s. Run some numbers in brains speed calc to help figure it all out. Anything less than 45mph would be undergeared with a 1520 in something that light though. I should know, I tried my 1520 in my buggy with my current 1518 gearing. 1520 ran hotter than the 1518 and was also hotter than when it was in my heavier Emaxx, indicating it was undergeared. The 1518 should be fine though, like I said mine is geared for 50mph in a buggy and the temps are fine running in grass with very little airflow under the body.

I think you should buy a truggy after reading your post!

I just built my first truggy, after driving mostly brushless 1/8 buggys lately. I had an e-revo at some point too, but couldn't afford to make it reliable. I only bash, so I bought a used Hobao Hyper ST Pro and converted it with RCM mount and batt-tray. Then a MambaMonster , the castle/neu 1518 1800kv, and a Turnigy 6s 40C 4000mah battery.

I LOVE the truggy, it is just as fast as my buggys and flies over stones etc. that would have broke an arm on a buggy. It jumps wonderfully, and just feels powerfull and great to drive.

If you still want a buggy, I'd get a hyper 8,5 pro and convert it. Those spider-diffs sure do wonders.

TG

Thanks Overdriven & el Tomaso for the advice--I finally decided to go with a Losi 8IGHT-E 2.0 Buggy, Mamba Monster, CC1518 1800V, & CC 10AMP 6S BEC, & ordered a 6S battery to start. Got the buggy 2 days ago. I jury rigged a 5S setup for the street while I'm waiting for my 6S battery to show up. I just ran it for a few minutes (my 2S & 3S batteries are very mis-matched). I really love the off-idle torque this thing has--it just launches as if it is a light stadium truck--really liking it so far :) Seems stable at speed as well. After having had a few trucks (various Revos, Maxxes, stadium trucks), I wanted a buggy again (used to have a B4). I'm not the kind of basher that will beat the crap out of it, we will see how well it holds up. Honestly it will likely take some harder hits with bad jumps on tracks.

If an easy 1/8 diff option becomes available for my EREVO, I'll get that & play with it again, but honestly I'm really thinking of selling it--tired of rebuilding the stock diffs w/Al cups, not interested in spending the time frabricating something out of Losi diffs--time is just so precious w/2 kids.

Congrats on the purchase. The 1518 is a great motor, one of these days I'll try out mine on 6s. I think you'll find it's pretty flexible and can be geared for pretty high speeds without heating up. Especially if you cut out the vents on the body (and open up the rear to let air escape) and maybe a cc blower. All depends on how high you gear it and how/where you drive. Should be a blast either way, I love high powered 1/8th scale buggies they're about the most durable thing out there and are just so much fun with crazy power on board. Let us know how it performs when you get it all setup

The 8ight 2.0 is a great car, I hope you have lots of fun with it! I like your brushless setup, plenty power:lol:

Thomas G

For the track or speed runs a 1/8 buggy is great. For bashing in grassy fields a 1/8 truggy is way better.

Why does everyone think the rc8 is any less durable than the others? Raced mine for three years and broke a rod end on the steering linkage and a front upper arm after three years of 6s racing. I would say the car has well over 1000 runs on it. Mugen and losi are good cars too but I don't really think any one in particular is tougher than the next. It's 1/8 they are all built pretty stout to begin with. Oh I forgot I blew up two center diffs in the last month on the super high traction indoor clay track at wcrc running 6s mmpro and a 1400kv motor(was a 1700 but a bit much for indoors) good luck with your decision, any way you go you will end up with a good car. One plus is the rc8be is around $400 which saves some dough for batts and such compared to your other two choices.

So besides the tires & body/body mounts, what's the real difference between a buggy & a truggy? I already have a selection of 17mm Revo tires I plan to play with if it's ground clearance or anything like that. A-arm/axle length is all I can think of off the top of my head that might be really different.

I wasn't sure if the RC8 data was real or not, but I've been pretty happy with all my Losi vehicles in the past. For racing, I'm not sure there is much difference--driver is likely a bigger variable.

Ground clearance and wheel size is the big difference when bashing with a truggy over a buggy. With the right gearing you can put truggy wheels on some buggys. They are difficult to handle in the air due to the short wheelbase and increased rotational mass. I made a buggy length and truggy width 1/10 muggy with truggy wheels. It was a blast to bash with and ok on the track, but difficult to control in the air unless you really like backflips.

I'm familair with some of the buggy quarks/twitchiness, but like I said I've had enough trucks for now.

It's raining here again (likely all week). Maybe by the weekend my 6S battery will arriive. Worst case, I've got the week to paint the body.