question about brakes on the mamba max pro
 

i've noticed that my mmp dosen't have any where near the brake capacity as other escs i've seen.

i've changed the brake settings to 100% and i still feel like it's no where near what it's supposed to be.

Do i need to re calibrate my esc everytime i change the brake setting on the castle link or field programmer? that's the only thing i can think of that i might not be doing.

any help is appreciated.

also, i'm using old firmware could this be an issue as well?

Out of all the MMPros I have used on different software versions, I've never had brake issues. If I max them out, the vehicles all but flip over forwards or lock the tires when I jam on the brakes. If I ease into them and/or lower the brake force in the ESC, the brakes work fine.

Sounds to me the ESC is not seeing the full brake signal. Set ESC brakes to 100%, set radio throttle trim to 0 (centered), and any EPA setting to 100% in both F and R directions. Then, recalibrate the ESC and radio.

thanks Brian, i'll try that. much appreciated.

on my spektrum dx3, i have a travel setting that allows throttle and brake to 150%.

when i turn those up to 150%, i don't get 100% brakes, but i get full speed. when i set it to 100% on both, i get full brakes and not full speed.

So i'm wondering where the both meet? am i missing something?

Are you recalibrating after you change the epa each time?

Can you set 150% for throttle & 100% for brakes independently, or is there one setting/adjustment which affects both brakes and throttle at the same time?..

yeah, i tried re-calibrating after every change. maybe the brakes not being as good on 150% as 100% is in my head. i am afterall going faster than the 100% setting on the throttle i just figured i'd see a bigger difference in brake because the top end difference is large.

i changed the brake curve to an almost vertical line and that helped alot.

so i think i'm going in the right direction now...thanks to Brian and Neil for the advise.

aiiiiight...i'm an f'ing moron. :yes::rofl: i forgot to say i was running a sensored motor....a novak ballistic 5.5 on the mmp.

i took out the novak and put in a castle sensorless motor and it was back to full brakes. i know the throttle is much smoother in a sensored motor, but i had no idea the brakes were softer as well.

no biggie. thanks for the help guys. :party:

That shouldn't make a difference. The Tekin system in my Ten-T brakes really well, actually better as it acts more like ABS.

when i say brakes, i mean their maximum stopping ability. i run 1/10 buggies on a very tight track with alot of technical sections and hairpin turns. if i overshoot a jump, i need to hit the brakes almost on a dime and be able to turn...that's not what i'm able to do. their too soft. it's like they take too long to respond.


so...when i went back to the sensorless motor, it was night and day, Brian. I wonder if maybe the novak motor is sketchy?

but it's brand new, barely one practice on it....it was on a ten scte.

fast foward a bit...i went to the track with my buddy and we were running identical B4 buggies wth the same motors, gearing, suspension, everything...except this time he was running the RS pro, and i was on another mmp.
my trinity D3 had less brakes than his D3. we took the laptop to check settings and it was all setup properly.

100% brakes, sensored only, 10 degrees timing, everything else was default on the mmp...even the brake curve. I even had the local track pro check my radio. he said it was perfect.

the only thing that made the brakes better was to run the linear brake curve like a vertical line.

so....while i know the sensorless motor i have works better in my mmp, i still have yet to know why his rs pro has better brakes than my mmp.

i'm baffled. :drunk:

I run sensored motors on my MMPs for racing as well. In my SC10 and B4.1 the brakes are pretty good, but they aren't as good as when running a sensorless motor. Both are running Ballistic 17.5 right now and I have run 13.5 for outdoors. However my 1s MMP in my carpet car with 17.5 or 13.5 has THE WORST brakes ever! I would think that in suck a light car it would be able to just lock up the tires...nope! Barelt stops the car. Even if I'm doing about 3-5MPH is still takes a good 10-15 feet for the car to stop.

I really don't understand why braking with sensored motors is so much weaker but maybe because they have smaller rotors made with weaker magnets.

thanks for the post. that's exactly how i feel. maybe the answer is to try and find a 4 pole,high kv motor for racing my b4 and b44 and just abandon the sensored motors.

I'm using a 3.5T X11 LRP motor in my FLM Rustler with some big tires. Brakes are very good, even with that crazy silly setup. Rotor is 14mm. Gearing 86/9 32P, or something like that running on 2s. The MMpro has no problems stopping that sucker.

Rustler is the one in red.
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...h_DSC03551.jpg
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...h_DSC03545.jpg