Solder Tip
 

I was soldering up a new motor and some batteries over the weekend and ran across a bit of a "duh" moment.

Anyways basically once you've tinned your wires (I always retin even tinned wires) and your surface, if you then "pre-heat" both points even if they cool a bit they still seem to retain enough warm that they heat quicker and melt together quite well.

[QUOTE=thzero;404653]I was soldering up a new motor and some batteries over the weekend and ran across a bit of a "duh" moment.

Anyways basically once you've tinned your wires (I always retin even tinned wires) and your surface, if you then "pre-heat" both points even if they cool a bit they still seem to retain enough warm that they heat quicker and melt together quite well.

I think you accidentally left out what exactly that duh moment was.

Soldering was always a dreaded chore for me before I learned a few tips. I used to use lead-free solder and a 40w iron and it was a real pain. Now, I use 60/40 solder and flux paste. Also the radioshack 150/220w soldering gun helps too.:whistle:

seconded, lead free solder is really really bad for RC stuff.

I solder my 6.5mm bullets and <12AWG wire using my reflow attachment. 45W soldering iron isn't enough power to solder quickly, but 500W of hot air does the job quick. also makes heatshrink installation very easy. (:

why is lead free bad for rc?
im using none lead stuff (96,5 % tin, 3,0 % silver, 0,5 % cobber)

Use the right equipment.
 

I use lead free solder and have never had a problem with using it on any of my R/C stuff. You have to make sure you are using the right solder for soldering electronics. I have one of the Hako 969 machines and as long as you have the right amount of heat everything solders up nicely. I also use flux solering paste on every piece, which cleans up the metals and helps the solder to flow evenly. Tinning is very important, and in the final stages of soldering both pieces have to be heated up evenly and then cooled so that nothing pulls apart. I have not had a solder joint fail on me yet.

The "duh" moment was more or less the "pre-heat". I'm using a Hako 969 myself, and highly recommend it (my only complaint is lack of a digital readout at the price point, especially in this day and age of cheap electronics). But even so I really found that if I let each side heat to point of melting, then heated them together, the solder flowed really well.

Got a link to the Hako 969 or a really good iron?

https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...pn=HAKFX888RCP

The new hakko station, replacement for 936.

I can honestly say the ol' hakko 936 has been the best r/c related purchase that I have ever made. I wish I could have back all the time I wasted using crappy irons years ago.

Er I meant the 936.. but yeah that 888 looks nice except for the analog dial.

Here is one.
 

Here is one place I have seen them at. I got mine at AMAINhobbies, but I do not see them in their catalog anymore.

http://www.tequipment.net/Hakko936-RC-G.html

And here is a page on Amazon.com with a few choices for ya.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...ering+stations

Like Tex said, the 936 has been replaced by the 888 and is no longer produced.

I just bought a used 936 off of hippie, and it is 10 steps above and beyond anything radioshack sells. It is the right tool for the job.

I love using lead free solder. On all of my battery connectors and motor connectors I exclusively use lead free solder. It is a lot stronger than the 60/40 mix and flows a lot better if you have a soldering iron that can do the job properly. Lead free solder melts at higher temps so it might not be a best thing for really small components on a PCB but on bigger stuff it's all I use.

936 has analog dial as well, have it sitting right here next to me. :yes:

Yes I know because I have one, which goes back to my original and only complaint about it. :whip: