Couple of Maxx Questions
 

Brother has an E-Maxx Brushless Edition. I have 2 questions on his behalf:

1) Chassis/skids. He just broke his second chassis and skid plate at the same time. First time was the front, this time it's the read. What can beef this area up without going all out aluminum? He has alloy bulkheads and shock towers from the previous owner. Will alloy skids brace the chassis well enough?

2) Diffs (you probably saw this coming). I looked at his diffs and was amazed at how small they were compared to my flux. And only 4 internal gears. I see that FLM has the bulk/hybrid set up...but for $70 each (NOT including the actual diff) is pretty steep. Any other options?

Thanks guys, I know this is the place to come for maxx knowledge, haha.

If your looking to add strength to the stock chassis, aluminum skids will help a little. For maximum stength without going for an alum chassis, you might want to consider adding alum chassis braces. The two combined should really help tie everything together nicely.

There really aren't many options when it comes to the diffs on these trucks. Its basically FLM hybrid, UE cases, LST conversion, or stock gears. My current Maxx runs flm hybrids with Ofna Diffs, but I got a deal I couldn't pass up on the bulks. Otherwise I would be running stock gears, shimmed really well in aluminum cases. That setup has worked really well for me in the past, my only problems occurred after having a bearing fail.

are chassis braces a plastic part on the maxx or are you talking about fabbing one up? (sorry, not really familiar with his maxx).
Each time he's broken the chassis the skid has gone with it, I don't know if it's that way, or if the skid breaks and the chassis goes with it, you know?

I'll keep an eye for him around forums and fleabay if anyone is letting go of the FLM hybrids, but as it is it's out of his range I'm sure. We'll see how future diffs hold up. What needs to be shimmed properly on the diffs? the small planetary gears inside as well as the ring gear to pinion?

Here's another option- Tell him to stop crashing so hard... :wink: :mdr:

For chassis strength, you might try a strip of 1/8"x2" aluminum from the hardware store. Run it along the entire length of the underside of the chassis, bent to the contour of the existing skid plates, and use longer screws to attach it. Or, just replace the skid plates with the aluminum piece. I don't own a Maxx and I'm not sure if it's even possible to do this, but I know it would add lots of strength to the truck for not a lot of money. :smile:

As overdriven says, it will help quite alot with some alu housings for the diffs. Personally I am running the GARC diffcases with FLM diffcups and Traxxas ring gear from the previous E-maxx 3906. Beware that only Golden horizon makes aluhusings for the iffs on the new E-maxx's, as Traxxas changed the sizes.

Concerning skidplates, I would get the FLM extended alu chassis, and run stock skidplates with RPM covers. This should be bulletproof. I know itis a bit expensive, but I would rather save up and wait, than breaking the stuff each time I drive.

yeah, I'll have to have a look at it and see what broke and what not. See if it can be buffed up on the cheap. He said this crash wasn't bad at all, but I know his past ones have been, could have weakened it up.

edit: good advice Klausen, will pass it along.

thanks for the input so far guys, really appreciate it.

The chassis braces I'm referring to are on the underside of the chassis, the transmission bolts go through them, and is where you'd attach a center skidplate. With alum bulks, skids, and chassis braces the structure will be hard to bend without a chassis even attached, lessening the chance of breaking a plastic chassis. Should be a bunch cheaper than the alum chassis options out there too.

Shimming diffs. I always shim the spider gears inside the cup as well as the ring and pinion. There's a sticky around here somewhere about how to do it, but tip for traxxas diffs. After you add a shim and are checking the mesh out, reattach the driveshafts. Because the shafts use pins, you need to make sure they will still go in, and also because putting the pin in can change the mesh of the gears.

Alum cases for the diffs may not be necessary either, the newer 4 bolt 3905 diff cases hold up pretty well too, alot better than the older models, but traxxas' shim job is nonexistant. As items wear they get sloppy real quick. That slop translates into shock loads on the drivetrain when accelerating or braking, and eventually broken parts.

good stuff overdrive, any recommendation on an alloy chassis brace? I'll have to download the exploded view tomorrow and get acquainted with the truck a little.

I'll give you a head start:

http://traxxas.com/products/models/e...less-downloads

He ha expressed his concern that both breaks occurred at the very ends of the chassis, away from the chassis braces, breaking the skid plates themselves (not the rpm wear plates over the skids).

I'm thinking we start out with alloy skids and see if they help him.

http://cgi.ebay.com/T-Maxx-and-E-Max...item5644518555

http://cgi.ebay.com/ALUMINUM-FRONT-R...item19bbac8366 <-- Hongkong

Specifically I did a quick search and came up with these guys. Anyone know anything about them? Price is right....but if they are crap (aka integy style) I know to stay away.

Sorry for all the questions...I've seen the truck maybe 6 times, and he's not so internet savvy as I. And I've got all these great guys on RCM that know lots about maxxs ;)

Actually, I think we've decided he should get FLM skid plates. Can't go wrong with FLM!

I know what you meant about where the chassis broke, its a common problem, although I've never broken mine. Alloy skid plates are the best place to start, and will help a little to keep the chassis in one piece also. But, adding alloy chassis braces as well adds alot of strength to the overall structure of the truck. Because everything underneath the chassis plate will be alot more rigid with alloy braces and skids vs the plastic ones. Which will mean less flex, and less chance of breaking the hard, non flexible chassis in an impact with an immovable object.

Edit: There's not much difference in skidplates in my opinion. They will all get scratched up (don't get anything anodized), and the front one will get bent up into the bulkhead after a good impact. The difference is how easy it'll be to bend it back and if the alloy will get fatigued after doing it over and over! Unless you can find a set of out of production GA or HCR titanium skids, those are the shiz

Yup, we're going FLM skids, good warranty, know it's good metal, and they look sharp (bling!) He's got 1/8th scale shocks all around, so the weight won't hurt there too bad...I disused the added weight with him and he figures for the price of chassis it is worth a shot, or he'll sell them off.

Thanks for the help guys, he loves his truck! haha

If you don't mind a little fab work, lst diffs and cases in maxx bulkheads are cheap and strong. The cheapest option but the most fab work. The only thing stronger would be 8 spider diffs, but then you would need either ue ultralite cases or flm hybrid bulks.

Considering he has alloy bulks I'd go with lst diffs.

Yup, talked to him about LST diffs. Might go that route, pretty decent guide here on RCM in one thread on like page 14 I think :) Made him look at it, haha.