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RC10GT brushless Build Up thread
welll i had been planning to convert the rc10gt i won on the bay a while back for $60 bucks into a brushless beast well i've finally started but i broke one of my hex drivers that i needed for the project :d so i have to wait until tommorow and hopefully go pick another one up so that i can get the majority of the work done.... all i need are a new set of rims/tires and wiring to do my esc
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...tSideView2.jpg what the truck started out as http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...T/IMAG0334.jpg The trucks new beginnings here are the specs: MGM Compro 120 Amp esc BK Wanderer 12 s Dual Max Amps 2s 8000 mah lipo's and sometimes a 3s one New Era Dual deck Chassis New Era Alu frnt and rear bulks New Era Frnt C-Hubs and Knuckles New Era Frnt and Rear Alu Shock towers Stock Traxxas t-maxx shocks for now and Masher 2k's will be mounted all aro und |
Nice!
the thing i like about this GT, is that the motor sits in front of the rearwheels. This thing will be nice! |
y thank you...i hope it goes well i don't see any probs it just sucks how i broke the tip on my alan tool so i have to try and get one today granted they have em in stock...which i really hope they do so that i can do most of the builld...also can a mgm be wired for dual batts?
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Sure you can wire it, i would make a single connector on the MGM and bridgecable that connects the 2 packs parallel.
Can't you dremel of a piece of your alan head? |
well it's not the screw it's the actual driver...so i have to replace it.....and by parallel would i be making a y connector basically?
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I think you want series, since you'll have two 2s packs and are running a 12s. A series adapter looks like the picture I have attached (from Swami-RC.com).
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keep us updated, i think its going to turn out great.
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i sure willl
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hum i was told buy several people that running a motor in front of that back wheels is a no no and that i would have traction issues with a rwd stadium truck:032: |
well time will tell if i have probs or not.....i guess what you're saying makes sense because it's so light in front of the tires that they'll have less grip than if it were behind em because no weight pushing down...but that can be fixed i'll prolly have to use a reciever pack anyway so there you go
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It depends whether traction is at a premium.You will get more forward traction with a rear overhang,but there have been successful buggies with the motor in front.The people that make the x-5 have a new one called the x-2,for more on power steering.Batfish converted a jato,i think he did have traction problems i'm not sure.If you think about it though,nitro stadium trucks work with motor in front and reciever pack overhanging the rear.Probably less of a problem for a heavier vehicle but the Havoc is said to have good traction.You won't get the pack down the centre line though for lower yaw moment(quicker turn in) but doesn't really matter for a basher.
Depends what surface/tyres too whether traction is a problem. Stampy,I thought you'd tried the RS4MT in 2wd and it was OK,give it a go,basically the same layout as a converted nitro stadium would be. |
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ya i dident but my truck was gutless with the bl setup i had:mad:1 |
i was gonna do the same because i purchased one on ebay for $22 shipped but i never got it lol
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Looks good so far, keep us posted. Noticed you took my suggestion with the motor mount :)
Having the motor in the middle gives it somewhat different handling. On hard surfaces I preferred it to my trucks with the motor over the back - more steering, less sideways action, easier to bring to its limit. But on pretty loose surfaces where traction is short, its easier to drive the car if you put some weight over the rear axle. I'm curious to see how your mounting the battery, it took me a long time to come up with a design that would work for 2 batteries that wouldn't let the battery fall out. Btw..your much better off with the stock shocks in the first pic than stock T-maxx shocks. You can get threaded bodies for them shocks as well which are quite nice (but get the T4 ones, not GT ones, they shortened the GT ones slightly to make the car more stable under breaking, but with the extra weight of electric its a non-issue). Good luck with your project :) |
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