Need Help Hybrids and CVD's
 

Ok I just got done building my FLM Maxx today. Flm Chassis, Hybrid diffs w/the diffs FLM supplies, Flm shock towers. Rpm front arms and true track in the back.

I bought some Traxxas CVDS and the Revo extended cups. About 10 minutes into the run SNAP!!!!!!!!! The drive cup Snapped in half and broke the cvd.

I can not put my Stock axles on. Because after shimming the diffs up the one side the Stub axle supplied with the kit is not long enough. I would not be able to get the Pin screw through the stub. Its off by half a hole.

So what are my options now?

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I'm working on finding out if Mugen 6th cvds will fit the truetrac but I would like someone to measure 1 for me. Another option that does but with considerable modification is lst2 cvds. I think the Mugen ones will work better. Be thankful it didn't bust your diff gears.

Is there any material that you can remove from the end of the stock drive shafts to line up the drive shaft and stub axle holes properly whilst maintaining its structural rigidity?

I have also sheared a drive pin, on a savage dogbone, and was able to press the rest of the broken pin out in a vice with a small socket set piece and a small screw. I then replaced it, and red threadlocked it in place, with a pin that I had spare lying around in another broken dogbone. I guess a drill bit would also work if you have no broken shafts to test and the pin, in my case at least, was an 1/8th of an inch but could be 3mm.

You can do that and buy a replacement drive cup and then you should be good to go again.

Also would you be able to reshim the diff, putting all the shims on the other side, to make the output stub axle stick out that extra little bit?

Hope this helps

When I shimmed the diffs I used 8mm shims, between the diff cup and the bearing. It took a lot of them. FLM only gave you one shim that would go between the housing and the bearing, which i used on the ring gear side. Reading the Forums here, I think these shims are 16x14mm. I seen some 16x13 mm shims linked somewhere that I ordered. I hope that these will work to shim the bearing closer to the diff cup. Because right now the bearing is what is keeping me from using the stock axle on the one side.

How well do the stock axles hold up? I really think what happened here to break this was the axle was not inside the dogbone cup enough, but there is no way to get it in any more. In the front the pilliow balls are all the way in and its the true track in the rear, so theres only so much you can do.

This was really discouraging, I just got this all together and its broken in a few minutes.

No cant do that, The pinion and ring gear mess would never work

Yeah, it looks like the ball and pin need to be further inside the diff cup, so the only way I can think of is to find a longer drive cup, such as a savage transmission drive cup (6x13x20) HPI 86276 compared to the extended revo ones (6x13x19) or to shim the diff as close to that side as possible, as you are trying to do, but this may lead to problem occurring on the other side. Does the ball and pin of the cvd just fit in the cup on that side as well as the side that broke? Is the photo of the other side that hasn’t broken yet?

You could always try regular diff cups and not bother with the stub axles and the extended revo drive cups. Or you could even use a wider diff of the same gear ratio as the one up front, there is no problem with that one so no need to buy two, to move the drive cups out a bit more.

If you are using the FLM Ultimate Rear Hybrid Bulk have you tried using the diff cups that are already supplied with it, installed in the diff in the photo on: http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...LM17850&cat=31

It is not ideal but you could enlarge the pin screw hole in the diff slightly for the stock sliders. They are pretty good from experience but I have broken two due to it rubbing on the shock spring retainer and wearing thinner.

The longest possible setup from the parts I have was using the stubs with the extended cups. They were longer than the supplied cups that came with the combo diff. What about the XXL Cvds. I have seen people using those with some mods to the carriers. I wonder if those are longer? Like i said if I take out the 8mm shims I used to shim the diff and shim the diffs between the housing and bearing with the bigger shim I should be able to use the stock axles for now. I am hoping atleast.

Ah, i see. I don't know about the XXL cvds i'm afraid. Yeah that should work for the stock axles, fingers crossed.

The savage cups, or any even longer, that i mentioned may add just enough length or you could ask Mike to make some of these for you but a few mm longer, http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...d=RCMdiffshaft