Has anyone succesfully re-attached magnet/rotor to shaft
 

Just as the title says, I would like to know if anyone has succesfully re-attached magnet/rotor to shaft. My motor is a Neu 1509. Need to get some ideas of the best way to do it. Thanks in advance guys.

try green loctite, it's "sleeve lock", made for attaching things on shafts. It will glue and hold a pinion on a motor shaft, so it should surely hold the rotor

I thought that might be some good stuff to try.

Any others that have done it successfully?

Heard good things about the green goo, supposedly is bad azzed stuff.

If you have green goo you might want to hit up the urologist...

Or move to AZ and sell it to the alien/trekkie wannabees...

ladies (bondo, hippie) love my pistachio pudding:whistle:

I got some of this to try:

http://permatex.com/images/DisplayIm...otos/64000.jpg

Thats horrible :slap:

Are you angry at him for calling you a lady?:na:

Good luck bdebde, hope it works.

Well... I think that green stuff would have worked great. I got it all cleaned up and the rotor slid onto the shaft very easily. I made a mark so I would know how far to put it on. Followed the directions, applied the goo, and inserted with a twisting motion. Got the rotor about halfway to the mark and it would not go any more, it locked it solid right there (crap!). I tried to remove it to try again and it was a MFer to get back off... but I damaged a corner on one of the magnets (MFer!). So, looks like new rotor time... damn. At least I now know how that stuff works if I need it again in the future. I should have had something set up and ready to press the thing in there... even though it slid on easily when clean.

Anyone have a 1509 rotor? or 1509 motor they want to sell (any wind)? heck even a 1409 (same rotor)?

I used the green locktight on a tekin rotor that broke loose on me. Worked great. Never another issue again. But you are right. It does set up pretty quick. The set time varies based on the temperature and the gap you are filling with it. The higher the temp and/or smaller the gap between the 2 pieces the quicker it will set.

Done it twice myself, both successful and using JBWeld. one was a 4400 hv Novak Emaxx motor ( 550 sc motor), the other was a Lehner 1200 xl basic. Still have the basic and it still running hard. All i did was clean the old glue/ sealer out, being careful to not loosen the tolerances. I prefer the JBWeld over the lockers, due to there being some metal in the stuff, making the bond supposedly stronger

Jb weld really is amazing stuff. I've used it multiple times to resecure popped end caps, front and rear.

Back when I could walk I had an rm80 dirt bike with a chunk out of the crankcase, jb weld fixed it, and held indefinitely.

my brother used it to make new threads for the crankshaft in a 318 dodge motor. held till he removed the bolt, threads still intact

I will be going one of these routes shortly. The Green goo or JBweld. I am wondering how to get the rotor in the right position. I will be hard to measure the position while it is about to set! Can I devise some sort of stop? I want the rotor to be in the right spot of the shaft when it sets.

-Zack