RC-Monster Forums - Inferno GT2 build

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Inferno GT2 build

Here's the start: roughly 60 bucks after shipping. I think I got a good deal.

Kyosho Inferno GT parts lot

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8474/8...0c45cce8_b.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8056/8...f18efdeb_b.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8323/8...9a9f3e7a_b.jpg

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Diffs are in excellent shape, the chassis is severely bent, but the majority of it is in excellent shape. I only needed the front and rear end anyways. Got a new red GT2 chassis on the way.

Also picked up a Kyosho brushless conversion kit, and an RC-Monster kit.

That was the start a few weeks ago.

Putting some more stuff together. Turns out that the GT2 Chassis I ordered, was located in the heart of New York, NY. Should be here sometime next week. On the bright side, I couldn't decide between the Kyosho conversion kit, and the RC-Monster Kit. I bought both, mainly to use the RC-Monster battery tray and motor mount. I'm using the Kyosho radio box because it's a box. If I decide to go with mechanical brakes, I'll use the RC-M mount. Got some of the front end cleaned and put back together, broke the mount for the front bumper in the process of taking it apart. There was no getting around it with how bent the bolts were. I'm using partially threaded 3mmx45mm cap heads instead of the upper hinge bolts. A new shock tower is on the way that's aluminum, and 4mm thick.

Waiting on some uni's, the shock tower, and a few other goodies:
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8186/8...0a167961_b.jpg

Close up of the ear that broke off taking it apart. The cap head on the right is upper hinge pin:
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8190/8...5e551aa1_b.jpg

RC-Monster Kit:
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8334/8...09051800_b.jpg

Kyosho Brushless Conversion Set:
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8328/8...09f4d5fe_b.jpg

Both of them in comparison:
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8326/8...30f8516c_b.jpg

Lightweight, wicked-strong center diff:
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8324/8...ffa74bb1_b.jpg

Underside comparison of the battery trays:
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8334/8...339499a3_b.jpg

Topside of the battery trays:
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8465/8...188e54a5_b.jpg

Which one does the battery fit in:
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8327/8...4d6216d3_b.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8188/8...110f745d_b.jpg

I'm leaning towards the RC-M battery tray, but the Kyosho tray provides a more "fit and finished" look. The Kyosho is quite a bit smaller in the battery area.

Got a body cut out..... McLaren F1

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8067/8...9d023cec_b.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8488/8...e07121c9_b.jpg

The yellow wheels, well.... are ugly. I'm going to pickup a new set for bashing and use those guys for high speed runs. More than likely going to paint this thing red. Also, the rest of the Armor Plated screws are on the way. I ordered the GT-2 kit, and it did not come with any of the counter-sunk screws. HexCrews made it right, FAST. I cannot say enough about those guys, I've been using their kits for about ten years now and have NEVER had a problem until now. They sent out a new kit and told me to keep the one I had. Awesome service if you ask me. (I have probably spent more than 400 bucks on screws there, but hey... I like the AP stuff.)

After a visit from Jon, I've got a speed control, and re-re-re-configured the steering. I was going to use the Kyosho box at first, decided to use the RC-M mount and had everything setup to use that linkage wise. I decided that I like the way the Kyosho box looks over the RC-M mount on this one, and with the Kyosho box I can put everything where it's supposed to go. You can with the RC-M mount too, but I just like the box better after looking at both of them setup properly. Next update will be sometime after Christmas, unless I break down and bastardize the truggy for it's 1600KV motor. Supposedly, Santa is bringing me a motor this year, something in the 1900-2000KV flavor of Tekin or Thunder Tigre. More stuff is finished as well, center diff is complete with King Headz center brace, new bulkhead, and .... gotta wait two weeks for the front brace to arrive, but what can you do. Inventory mistake on black.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8208/8...94959a6a_b.jpg

More to come, maybe. It's almost done with the building side of things.

it all looks so nice!

You really brought that thing back from the dead! It was trashed, but now it's looking like a proper race car.

Awesome work man:yes:

Quote:

Originally Posted by _paralyzed_ (Post 424901)

You really brought that thing back from the dead! It was trashed, but now it's looking like a proper race car.

Awesome work man:yes:

I only bought it for the front and rear ends, and was hoping that the diffs were alright. They were after a little re-conditioning, I've got new cases with the steel insert but they're going in after these break. I've also got every hardened aluminum part available from Kyosho sitting in a box, waiting to go in my stocking. I had to put the order in, but she's got a nice little bracelet that she's happy with as well. So stocking's it is.

My main concern is that I plan to get this thing over 100MPH, GPS or radar verified. I've hit 72-ish MPH on my LSP-2 with the 1600KV 6S combo using excessive gearing (50T -26T pinion). Battery was hot, motor was hot, etc. I'm gunning for 100+MPH here.

I love how you've built this, everything is in perfect shape, and I love the red bits and the shell is beautifull! Maybe I'll make one of my buggies into a 1/8 speed machine. I have got some ideas from this thread:smile:

What motor are you going to use? tekin 2650kv? or the castle 2200kv or 2650kv? I'd go with the 2200kv myself, on 6s:mdr:

TG

I'm not sure, more than likely 2000-2200 KV, and she'll be rolling 6S. All of the motors that I sent links to my wife for a Christmas present were 1950-2200KV and I told her to surprise me. They were all either Tekin or Thunder Tigre motors as well.

Christmas was a good day..... Also got a 24T pinion coming for regular running, and will run a 30T for speed runs.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8074/8...1f6cb180_b.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8355/8...a37722cd_b.jpg

I've been looking for a reason to change all my deans to the EC-3 type plugs for a while now..... Have a reason to test out the Jig's Up soldering helper.

Roughly two battery packs through this and the rear diff is clicking, I'm going to tear it apart sometime this weekend and see what the damage is.

Anyone have a recommendation for stronger ring/pinion combos? They're standard Kyosho diffs.

So, here's an update:

I replaced the diff cases with "Hard" ST-RR cases, rebuilt the front and rear diffs with new cases, rings, pinions, internals, etc. New diffs, and better cases. I also spent about two hours shimming them into their new housings perfectly. Zero backlash, checked them after 15 minutes of parking lot running, added one shim to the rear.

I've been driving this a little between rain, work, and nice days in a parking lot that's about 1000 feet from my house.... I was running this in that lot, for about 20 minutes on a freshly peaked 6S pack, and in the last five minutes or so noticed that it was pulling really hard to the right. I brought it back to the house thinking that I picked up a decent size rock, or maybe a shim too many.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8232/8...0e924321_b.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8378/8...160cf2c7_b.jpg

The chassis is bent, tweaked, whatever you want to call it. I was in a completely open parking lot. No cars, two light poles and myself. Roughly a square acre of nothing but lines on the ground. I didn't hit anything, so I assumed, "Hey, I'll shoot an email to Kyosho and see what they have to say about this".

Quote:

Originally Posted by KMNtoKYOSHO

Hello,

I recently purchased a Kyosho Inferno GT2 Red Main Chassis IS001R for my GT2. I have run this a few times and last Friday was running it in a parking lot across the street from my house. I ran it for about twenty minutes, and did not run into anything or hit anything. In the last five minutes of running I noticed that it was pulling to the right rather severely. After I got home and looked at it, I noticed that the chassis was severely tweaked in the rear of the car. I know that there is probably no warranty for this, but with just running in the parking lot it tweaked rather severely. I maybe have a total of an hour running this car all together and am sad to see that the chassis bent so easily. I also have some pictures that I can send, you will notice that the chassis still looks brand new.

Thanks!

--Howard

Here's the response after two weeks:

Quote:

Originally Posted by KYOSHOtoKMN

Mr. Howard,

Sorry for the delay in our reply, please accept our apologies. Unfortunately we are unable to offer any time or replacement option for this chassis once a car is run it’s extremely hard to prove that it was defective and not a hit. If you would like to pursue this and summit proof of the defect please forward all info to support@kyoshoamerica.com .

Please note all Kyosho products carry a 90 Day Warranty from the date of purchase.

If you have already contacted us, please disregard this email.

Kyosho Corporation of America

Sincerely,
Kyosho America

Now this leaves me a bit confuzzled.... I'm about a grand deep in this thing and just want to scrap it. I mean, Kyosho is one of the most expensive brands you can choose in this hobby right? I sent them pictures and explained that it was a brushless beast on 6S, but this is a manufacturer defect as far as I'm concerned. I've only been running R/C cars since I was a toddler, who's 30 years old now. I wasn't looking for anything for free at all, I just want them to know that their chassis' is weak.

is the chassis bent in the same place as the blue one that came with it? Crazy that this thing has seen 2 bent chassis already!