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Help me pick out a subwoofer for this amp...
Buddy of mine checked out my cheap $100 subwoofer, and instantly asked me for me to help him out.
Handed over a cheap subwoofer (cracked it open and it's all molded and rusted out), with a cheap amp. Tested everything out, cheap amp seems to work fine, but the specs are very sketchy. I'm calling out Harold here (I think he helped me last time? surprisingly? :intello:) What are the suggestions!? Budget is $350 for 4 speakers and sub and amp. Vehicle is Ford Mustang 2004 model, coupe. Very open to powered subs again since they're dead easy to work with, but can't find many. Specs of amp: *A cheeeaaap amp, so I would definitely not expect these actual numbers* XM-7676 C/W 2 CHANNEL POWER CHROME/WHITE AMPLIFIER MAX OUTPUT POWER (4OHM): 300W x 2 = 600W POWER OUTPUT: 130W X 2 @2 OHM (260W) LESS THAN 0.5% THD 80W X 2 @4 OHM (160W) LESS THAN 0.3% THD BRIDGED 260W X 1CH @4 OHM MOSFET DC-DC SWITCHING POWER SUPPLY VARIABLE LOW PASS FILTER VARIABLE HIGH PASS FILTER |
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Cadence amps are good. Or at least they were way back in the day when I was into car audio
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That amp might be ok to run a set of seperates in the front. Get some coaxials in the back, or just run the stockers for rear fill. Your sound should come from up front, rears are not that big of a deal. If your head unit has a crossover, set it to only allow 400hz and above to rear speakers, and probably 120-180 hz and up to the front.
As far as subs and sub amps, I like kicker l7 or the stamped basket l5 if you have a budget constraint. Box style will depend on what you listen to. I like to turn up metal, rock and techno, so I always went sealed, but did do a big bandpass for a while, that thing loved New Orleans rap. Class D sub amp is a must, as is a farad or 2 cap. A good box is also needed. Make your own, 3/4 mdf min, with braces and lots of liquid nails. I even glassed the inside of one box, made it really tight. Wasting money on cheap gear is a sin, and God will smite you. Check out the local classifieds and craigslist for some hi end used gear. |
I was going to simply replace the speakers with some better, nicer ones.
and dedicate the amp to just the subwoofer for the extreme lows. Not a good idea I presume? |
Are you using the stock head unit?
Do you want a subwoofer and a box, or will you make your own box? How much bass does he want? How much trunk room is he willing to sacrifice? What's the budget? |
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I'd rather have a subwoofer and a box, less work for me. As much as possible, but money is a bigger issue. I was thinking maybe a shallow box, which I could press right against his back seat. $350 budget for speakers, subwoofer. I'm probably going to dedicate about $150-200 for the speaker, and about $100-150 for the subwoofer. The sub is probably the bigger elephant in the room, once I get the sub I can work and get speakers. |
A 2004 will have decent stock speakers. I recommend leaving the stock speakers.
I need to know if you're using the stock or aftermarket head unit.... |
Okay, leave the stock speakers and use the high pass filter on the deck to cut all bass from the stockers, and they will get plenty loud.
Here is a killer loud setup that would work with his amp, you just need to look at the measurements and make sure it will fit in his trunk. It should. I really recommend holding off on changing stock speakers until you hear it with the stockers high-passed and the sub working. http://www.ebay.com/itm/CAR-AUDIO-SI...049f97&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/300882396947...84.m1423.l2649 |
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Are you sure that would work well with a cheap amp? I'm a tad bit scared that they are (definitely) overrating their specs (kinda like...that one battery company..) Then again, I suppose that the sub might be the same deal. EDIT: Won't fit his vehicle. The trunk of his Mustang has a height of 15" |
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You know, just trying to make most of his budget :oops: But thank you buddy ol' pal! |
That's a boston acoustics sub. The only reason it is cheap is because it's discontinued overstock. Boston acoustics is a well known hi end manufacturer.
Other subs are hobby king quality, boston is tekin quality. A more expensive sub will just require more power and won't be as loud with your cheap amp. If you want to leave the stock speakers I could probably find a box, a better amp and 2 12" subs for $350 and then you'd really be bumping. |
Glad to chime in on this as I have done many various stereos in my 01 bullitt mustang. From mild a sundown sa-8 on 500w to two dc lvl 4 12s on 3k. Now its a street/strip car so no more bang but there are some critical details to doing a mustang system. The trunk opening awkward and the trunk height is around 14-16inches at the highest point, and if he still has the mach 460 like a lot of the mustangs the height is a meer 11" behind the seats. my favorite setup was 2 skar audio 10s on 1500, but anyways. I would definitely go with an audiopipe 1000 monoblock. They are decent amps for the money and I have owned 7 of the 1500s. Check out the big 3 upgrade for a little more input juice as well. It cost about $20 if you order standard 4ga wire and can really help. I just checked ebay and the 1500s are going for $125 now so you might as well just get the 1500 and run it at 2ohm for a little less power and room to upgrade down the road. To go along with it I would either go with a skar audio vvx series either 10 or 12. In a ported box you would be amazed at the performance of them. Do not for a second think that 1 10 wont be enough. It will sound better and have more output than most 2 12 setups that all the kids run in their hondas. with a 10 you can build a box that will fit under the shaker setup and have the port and sub facing forward. I had great results with that setup.
like others have stated the stock speakers are pretty good when you run a high pass filter on them. http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...0/IMAG0471.jpg |
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