Classic e-maxx build...
 

Once apon a time I had a 16.8v emaxx that I raced. Out of the 30+ RCs that I've bought and sold it's the one I wish I never would have.... At the time I needed gas and insurance $$$ :cry:


Now that I have a decent expendable income, I bought another:party:

Chassis:
Blue RPM everything:oops:

My power plan:
2x tekin 1400kv
2x MMP
2x 3600 5s
Power has gotten cheap lately:diablo:

I'm not expecting any miracles, but what would I need to make the drive line survive? My original maxx peaked at a 2000kv 4s setup, I never blew anything but the plastic driveshafts.

Would the 'stock' e-maxx diff survive, or should I go for the FLM 1/8 diff stuff?

You have been around long enough on these forums to know with a Maxx you need to go all in or not at all. Buy a Mugen or Losi truggy and lock the center diff put a monster body on and add monster tires. Or build a SERIOUS Maxx. Aluminum bulks, Center diff(locked or not), Aluminum chassis, 1/8th scale diffs. I will say I had an unlocked center diff with the 3.3 traxxas diffs once and gotten decent durability out of the diffs. The fact that the power goes away from the wheels with good traction helps the diffs.

Power has gotten cheap. I love it.

About RPM: I prefer FLM arms. The RPM truetrack are awesome! However NO driveshafts fit them. Your drive shafts will pop out unless you do some serious modification. FLM arms are soo strong in the front. I two RPM arms. After I got FLM arms I haven't had a break or a bend. I once hit the ground so hard on one corner that I broke one Pivot ball shaft and bent the other pivot ball shaft but the arm was as straight as a board. ALSO!! Aluminum arms with aluminum bulks save your hingepins. regular steel hinge pins are fine so long as you both aluminum bulks and arms. You want all of your aluminum to quality of course no GPM or integy.

I decided to scale it back a bit. 1 1400/5s combo...

And every blue RPM part they make:whistle:

RPM is great, but if you use cvds, I find that the flexible arms lead to bent cvd shafts. Since a brushless Maxx can easily overpower the stock sliders, cvds are typical. I tend to build from the inside out - rugged chassis, diffs and bulks set the foundation for a reliable machine. I am working on an EMaxx chassis at the moment - the plan is to make it compatible with stock components while upgrading looks, durability, and versatility at a reasonable cost. I am mostly done with the design, but still tweaking some things and indecisive on the battery compartment size - input is welcome.

Please make a titanium chassis plate with front kick up. Just the plate. We provide the rest- to keep your cost down. Make it compatible with an easily attainable CD, you don't even have to provide a battery tray, but you could. I love your trays I have two of them.

Thanks, this is just a suggestion.

OP perhaps you should turn your power settings down to help your Maxx survive.

-Zack