V-Maxx Build
 

Hello everyone. I bought a new E-maxx brushless truck two months ago and was only going to replace the driveshafts since it was new cause I saw they started falling apart. Went on searching for options and got sucked into the E-maxx world lol. I only run 6s so I knew driveshafts and diffs were going to need upgrading to survive. So again I started looking around for ideas. I came by a person that has a v-maxx chassis and decided it looked to good to pass. When I started contacting Mike from here, he guided me and helped me along the whole way. So after I got the frame in with the RCM towers and full skids I felt it looked too nice to attach factory parts to and figured they were going to be replaced eventually anyways lol. So I started replacing almost everything and the build was on the way. Basically I built a new truck lol, other then the factory receiver, motor and trans which were reused. I promised myself afterwards I'd leave the rest alone but after putting this thing all together and taking it for a few romps there is only "one" more thing that needs to be done still.... a center diff install.

The design of the chassis and towers keeping all the weight low is great. Seeing that motor hanging out up in the trees is killing me lol plus the constant wheelies have gotten old quick. So in the mean time here are some pictures of how it came out. Hopefully I will be ordering the cd mount, diff and shafts soon.

One thing to note, if you use Mikes RCM V-RX-Box it will not fit on the side I have it in the photos if you don't modify the lid to tuck under the receiver box. Two reason its on that side is cause I'm using a glitch buster and didn't want to extend the wire a lot to the other side and I feel I get better swing of the turnbuckle in the steering system having the servo on the side I have it. I also keep my Castle link wires tucked away inside the box. If you want to mode the box you will see a faint line running around the whole inside of the lid. Use that as a mark of how much needs to be cut.

THE LIST:

RCM's V-maxx chassis
RCM Shock towers
RCM Front Center and Rear Race Skid Plates
FLM Hybrid bulks with FLM Maxx Bulkhead Braces (Front & Rear)
Supermaxx hinge pins (ejector pins) for FLM Hybrid Bulkheads
Ofna 1/8 Hyper 7 TQ diffs front and back
RPM front A-arms, Axle Carriers and True-Track Rear A-arms
Traxxas Center and Outer Steel Constant-Velocity Driveshafts
4 Mugen 1/8 MBX7R Eco Complete Rear Shocks & Springs
CentralMaxx Servo Saver
CentralMaxx suspension savers
Traxxas Red Aluminum 112mm Front Toe Link Tubes
1 Hitec HS-7955TG Digital HT Titanium Gear Coreless Servo
Lunsford 4x40mm Titanium Turnbuckle
RCM V-RX-Box
Castle link
Novak Glitch Buster Receiver Capacitor
Castle Link USB Programming Kit
Castle Blower Fan Shroud
4 Axial Oversize Bead Lock 8 Spoke Black Wheels
4 Pro-Line Maxx 40 Big Joe Tire
2 Pro-Line Sling Shot 3.8" Sand Tires with Black Desperado 1/2" Offset Wheels (Will replace rear ones for winter use)

Nice truck man! How are the Mugen shocks? Are the springs stiff enough or are they too loose like I am thinking? Do the shocks successfully bottom out where you have them mounted?

Absolutely love it, great build with an amazing parts list. Welcome to the nut house haha

Nice!

Nice build, Mike. The center diff will transform the truck nearly as much as the chassis upgrade. Also, the V-RX box is meant to replace the stock rx box, though it is tight. What have you got in each box?

The truck does sag a little in its resting stance and squats more turning hard braking and acceleration, But you can drop it from 6 feet and will safely land. The springs are the 1.5 diameter ones currently. Waiting for the newer 1.4 springs to come in the mail.

The 1.6mm springs use a larger wire diameter have much more linear rate throughout the travel.* The 1.6mm springs work best for smooth, high grip conditions.*

*The 1.5mm springs have a more progressive rate compared to the 1.6mm springs.* This means the springs start with a softer rate and become stiffer as the shocks are compressed.* These springs work well when the grip is lower or if your vehicle is heavier.* These springs work well for our Eco vehicles.*

*The new 1.4mm ultra progressive springs are more progressive then the 1.5mm springs and work best in lower grip and bumpy conditions.* The main advantage to the ultra progressive springs is that they allow the vehicle to have a lot of grip and as the chassis begins to roll in the middle of the turn or when landing jumps, the springs become stiffer and increase support.*

Where I have them mounted the truck can lay flat on the skids front and back and still have a little safety room of travel. On the other end of travel I'm using the suspension limiters to avoid over extension of the suspension (during flight or bad crash to keep damage to shocks and such to a minimum ).

I didn't even think I would be able to fit it in there lol. I got it to put the glitch buster cap in it and the wiring to my castle link in there. For a uncluttered look.

Good to know I have options. May need to order another one to see, since this one has been modified and lost some space inside.

Thanks everyone for the positive reviews

Excellent detail! Great response. I may get these. I was disappointed with hot bodies shocks.

Don't bother with going with the newer 1.4 springs though. Just got mine in today. Ordered the hardest ones (e2561) and they or lighter then my 1.5 (muge0577) springs. Stick with the 1.5 springs. I have three harder springs in the 1.5 family I can go with. The muge0568 0578 and 0569. Mine is just slightly to light but actually not that bad. The shocks themselves are awesome. Just need to figure out what spring u want to run with the shock.