Drivetrain Upgrades
 

I was thinking about getting the Mamba Monster Max (if it's as good as it's supposed to be) or a 9l/9920 or something in my E-Maxx. I would be running 14 cells with it.

I was just wondering if the 8 spyder differential is really neccesary. It cost $300 which is a bit pricey. I was also wondering if I can run cvds with my RPM arms. Some people say the arms flex too much. And do I need a new chassis? I just bash and every once in a while I go to a track.

Thanks

For such a setup you dont really need those diff's, as long as your easy on the throttle. But when you want to do wheely's and wheel spin's and the like's you'll find the weakspot's fast enough.

You could also look for alum diff cup's and alum diff housing's. Those help a bit. But if I where you i'd do it right the first time - get the 8 spyder. Saves you from buying cheaper stuff later on, since cheap stuff usualy don't last's.

I bend 2 ue cvd's with the rpm arm's, and it wasn't from jumping. Just tight cornering. So there you got my answer. Don't think the stock arm's flex as much.

I would recommend something like an XL motor. They run cooler and have more torque. The 9L will heat up a good bit.

What XL motor would be good? It'll be a bit before I can actually get it as I don't have a job right now but my birthday is coming up and I am looking for a job.

8XL would do nice on 14 cells.

I drove an 7XL on 14 cells, a 9L on 12 and 14, and the 9L got too hot in my opinion. the 7XL stays at 60-65 degree C with an outside temp of 26 degree C

8 XL would be even cooler, and would run a bit longer as well.

Will the 9920 work well with that? And do I need to upgrade the chassis or will stock be fine?

The 9920 will work will with the 8xl. The chassis will be fine as well. You can always upgrade that if you want.

Sweet, and what arms would you recommend? I was thinking gmaxx and I've heard their strong. I mainly just bash so if it's strong I don't care about weight.

For strength I like the flm. They have a great waranty as well. If you bend it or break it they replace it.

To be honest, I would never recommend the Gorilla suspension for bashing. They are to weak for it and will bend or break if you hit something at a moderate speed. The Integy Type 3 would be my choice no matter what I was doing because of the rear suspension design with no turnbuckles.

Would that be these?
bottom
top

Those are pretty cheap but will they work with powerstrokes? Will the part where the bottom of the shock goes fit correctly (are the powerstrokes too wide)?

And which one of these would be better?
titanium
steel
I would guess that the titanium would be stronger but the steel is so much cheaper. And those are the right links if I get the 8 sypder diffs right?

Sorry for asking so many questions...

edit: and can I have a link to the 8XL? Thanks.

I would go with this motor. Most go with the Wanderer, but this has a built in heat sink. There essentially the same motor.

As for controllers, I think the Quark 125 would be the ultimate controller but if you want something cheaper, the 9920 would do.

I would personally go for the Hot Bodies Lightning diffs. There cheaper and very strong. Those, in conjuction with the FLM Hybrid bulkheads. That would be the best setup. That with the CVD's of your choice. I would go for the titanium if I could afford it, but if your just bashing, the steel will be fine.

The FLM arms will work just fine with the Powerstrokes as well.

Well.. for bashing you need to stay away from titanium driveshafts.

In fact, the titanium driveshafts wear faster than the steel ones, and the steel shafts are stronger. Titanium driveshafts are made for the weightwatchers/racers. Not for the bashers.

So to suit your bashing needs, go steel.

If you are upgrading to 1/8th diffs you need to use either MIP shafts or UE shafts. I prefer the UE's.

If I get this chassis, it comes with the rear, extended CVD. So should I get these for the front?

Thanks for all the help.

I believe you would need this and 2 cups.