Wiring Help! Not sure how to proceed...
 

I did a search, and I think I found a few answers, but since they were a while back, I thought I'd make another post to get this info back up to the top. Please forgive my ignorance here, I'm fairly new to this.

I have: Ultimate BEC, Fiego 10L, MGM 12012 to be wired into my Revo. All of my batteries (so far) are 6 cell NiCD. Currently the ESC is wired with Anderson PP for one battery. I also have a fan to wire in.

From what i gather so far I need to (or should?) also add a seperate battery pack for my reciever? If so, would the stock revo rechargeable be a good one to use? Do I connect the power wires from it directly to the input of the BEC?

I assume that power to the reciever comes from the ESC wiring, correct?

Do I have to break open the case of the ON/OFF switch on the ESC to wire it in line between the BEC and the ESC?

Reading the instructions for the 12012, it appears that it is rated for 6-12 cells. Is that 12 wired in series or parallel? (instr. werent really clear on that)

One last item: I read that I need to disconnect a wire in the ESC if I run an external BEC??? What is this and how do I get to it?
Thanks in advance for all your help.

It is a good idea to run a separate receiver power source instead of the BEC when using 12 cells. To disable the BEC, all you need to do is remove the red(center) wire from the ESC's receiver connector, and tape the loose lead onto the other wires.
With this setup, the switch on the 12012 will only act to turn on the 12012, but for it to receive signals the receiver pack needs to be plugged into the receiver.
You can use the stock Revo receiver battery. If it has a 3-pin type connector with only two wires, then you can plug it directly into the receiver. If you don't use a switch between the receiver and the receiver pack, then just make sure to unplug the receiver pack when you're done running the truck. If you do use a switch, then make sure to turn it on before you turn on the 12012's switch.

will this setup work for a quark 125b as well?

If the Quark has its own switch, then yes. If the Quark doesn't have a switch, then everything else is still the same.

Yes, Quark has its own switch. In the manual it tells you to pull out the red wire from the throttle plug if using more than 12 cells IIRC, or if you just want to use your own Rx pack/UBEC. Note: the switch shuts off the ESC but there is still some small current flow from the main batteries so you should disconnect them.

So here is my attempt at a wiring diagram. I havent tried to post a pic on here before, so if it doesnt show, please forgive.

the only thing wrong in the pic or drawing is the batteries are in parrellal not series. Other than that it looks to be correct.

I was wondering about that. So without getting some dedicated packs made for this truck, how do I wire up a jumper system to put them in series? Is it even feasible - or would it just be better to buy another couple sets of 6 packs and wire them together permanently?
I'll do a search on wiring batteries in series too.

oh, and what about the fan? Where do you have yours tapped in at?

If I remember you run the power pole. They can be done in series real easy. Hook battery one pos wire to esc. Hook the ground wire of pack two to the ground of esc. Plug the remaing hot and ground wire to one another for completion of circuit.

Unfortunatley, only the esc has power poles. I just recently got done converting all of my other stuff to deans! I was thinking about buying some more batteries anyway, so maybe I should just do that. Do any of the vendors sell packs made to be run in series? This is what is generally referred to as a saddle pack, correct?

On edit: Wow, got lots of info searching for "wiring in series" - should've searched for that from the start!

Still havent found good info on where the best place to wire in the fan is......

Another question: I was looking for reciever covers and/or options for recievers, and I ran across this: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJM12&P=7

Its a reciever with BEC....could I have just utilized one of these recievers instead of wiring in a U-BEC?

That might work although I would still opt to use a UBEC. The one in the Rx is probably just a linear regulator and will heat up substantially, especially when using high cell counts and/or heavy duty servo(s). Besides, it does not say what the current rating of the BEC is or the max allowed cell count. A UBEC uses a PWM regulator so it is much more efficient and heats up a LOT less.

my manual is in korean so i didn't know that.lol

What? You can't read Korean? Everyone should know how to read Korean. Sheesh!

J/K. :) I'd be lost too. Luckily, you can download the English version here.