540 9L in a Rusty
 

I have been wanting to get a new motor in my Rusty that can handle 3s. I was running a 380C-6L... But you can fry eggs on that thing with 3s. Thats well over the 50K rpm limit. Not good.

I am working upgrading my BL setups in my bigger trucks and wound up with Feigao 9L that had no home. So I put it in the rusty. It had a 5mm shaft so I had to convert the rusty from 46p gears to 32p. I had a 54T 32p spur siting around and that was an almost perfect size.(Hey Squee...finally found a use for those spurs :005: ) Exact same diameter as the 84T 46p stock spur and it even worked w/ the stock slipper. So I set it up w/ the 540-9L and the 32p gearing. I even figured out a way to get a strap across the back of the motor to keep the end bell from comming off.

Anyway... No big deal, just thought it was kinda funny to stuff a big motor like this in a staduim truck. So I tought I'd share.

BTW. I only have an extra 16T and a 20T pinion for the 5mm shaft so I have to go w/ either 16/54 or 20/54. I have it set up with 20/54 now and it pulls wheelies in my living room from a standing start. I'm hoping I dont fry the warrior 7020 I'm running it on.:013: What do you guys think? to much for a 7020 or will I be OK. I guess I'll find out tomorrow.:018: The motor should run cool anyway. It will not even get to 25K rpm.
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That's an awful big motor for such a relative light truck.. (with 2wd...)

I guess your 16C lipo's will hit their maxximum first.

The 7020 should be okay, just don't overgear it too much

Your truck is pretty light. So the amp draw should be as bad as like in a emaxx. I think the motor should be ok. The esc should be ok as well. I am more worried about the trans taking the motor.

That is a nice little truck. how does the rusty handle? Where's you get the chassis?
Never ran BL in a rusty, not sure of what motor would work. But thought i would give some compliments anyways!

FLM Chassis (and arms). It handles just OK, but for a basher its justa about as durable as it can be.

thanks man. i really like it! I have an electric rusty too, it's so old it has the mechanical speed control yet. Thought about converting it!

Looks good. I like the bodge clamp :)

I know from personal experience that 540 L's in a 2WD stadium don't work out too brilliantly - rear ends up very heavy, but the power you can get is impressive. My 8L on a 9 cell battery was good fun in an RC10T2. It always ran hot though because the amount of wheelspin. On 12 cells in an ST, you really wouldn't believe the speeds they're capable of.

You should get some better tyres though, those ones look like they're gonna just spin and not put the power down. M2K's work nicely :)

Thanks.

Tires are next on the list. I'm watching ebay for a deal. Not really worth investing in new for the bashing I do with it.

I was also kinda thinking that the tires not being able to hook up that well might be a drivetrain saver.:005: Even with the alluminum idler in the tranny, its not designed for this kind of torque.

Got it set for a test run tonight after work if the weather holds out.

EDIT: What do you guys think of the MOAB 2.2 tires. Any good? Or maybe the new Stampede Talon Stockers?

If you don't already have the steel/aluminum differential, you might want to look into getting the aluminum tranny case. It will decrease the chance of stripping diff and spur gears by preventing the flex that the stock plastic tranny case exhibits.

For tires, M2ks should work well, or the new 'Pede tires. Personally I wouln't get the Moabs because they're taller and have a skinnier tread area.

I run MOABS on my jato, the traction is good, but way too tall of a tire. The walls on those are weak and have a lot of flex

I didn't know they made metal diff for the rustler. Where can I get one? How much are they?

RC-Monster.com:005:

duh.... Right under my nose.

I guess I never looked for them. I haven't ever had any issues with the stock tranny w/ alluminum idler. Of course.... That may change now.

I think a set of M2K's are worth their price new, easily. My last set lasted ages, around a year before I replaced them. And they were used on a couple of different trucks on all sorts of terrain. Paired with some RPM rims its a good combo, just make sure to put a couple of 3-4mm holes in the wheels so the insert can breathe. Espically important with big tyres.

I would strongly reccommend going for the aluminum tranny case before the steel/aluminum diff. When I got the aluminum tranny case, Mike said that I would be back for the steel/aluminum diff. Well, he was wrong! I haven't stripped a plastic diff since switching to the aluminum tranny case, and that was at least 3 or 4 months ago. At one point I bent the aluminum motor plate, and while waiting for a replacement I got a stock plastic tranny case. As soon as I touched the throttle the diff gear was stripped, so I got a new aluminum idler (the old one had really sharp teeth) and a new plastic diff. That plastic diff went too. Since I got the replacement aluminum tranny case I haven't had any problems. The setup I'm running is a Mamba Max 4600 system on 4s Lipo.