Brushless setup for E-Revo ???
 

Hello

I was wondering if some one here could help me with a brushless setup for my E-Revo ?? Rigth now I´m running HV-Maxx 4400 and 7 cell GP and IB´s on standard Revo wheels.

I have been mailing a little with Mike (RC-mosnter) and had decided this setup:

Feigao 540c 7xl
Quark 125B monster pro
UBEC

Is there anyone here who runs that setup and can tell about it ?? Is it smooth like ex the HV-Maxx systems (have concidered the HV 4.5 - but not sure it has the power I want)

What about the warrior 9920 controler - is that ok ??

Is there any better ideas ??

What Lipo setup would be good to go with ??

What kind of setup would you be choose ??

Hoping for lots of advises :032:

I'm running a 7x and a 9920 on my LST... so that setup would/should be fine with an E-Revo.. I would take Mikes recommendations... Lipo's maxamps... Mike has'em...

I am using the 7XL with the 9920 too.

According to Mike, The quark 125 seems to be smoother, but the 9920 is smooth as butter already.

If you want to go lipo, get a 4S2P pack (8000 mAh in total) but with the 9920 you would need a separate lipo cutt-off. the 125 has got one build in.

The 7XL preforms very well on 14 cells! on 12 it's quick, on 14 even better..

About the standard revo-rims;

Glue the hex in with CA glue.. they won't last too long if you don't glue them.

About the smoothness. How often do you drive 0.1 mph? the startup with the hv-maxx is as smooth as possible. But the 9920 has got low cogging. (cogging is a startup every non sensored BL set has) but with normal driving i can assure you, that you won't notice it.

Now I must add a question !!! what i the diference between the 2S2P and 4S2P - I´m not sure I understand this Lipo thing - all the different types...

S means series, P means Parallel.

As you prob already know, putting batteries in series adds their voltage. Putting batteries in par. adds their capacities. So if you have 2 3.7V 2000 mah cells:

2s: 7.4V, 2000 mah
2P: 3.7V, 4000 mah

An important parameter on lipo batteries are they discharge current capacity, rated in terms of C. C is a multiplier to the capacities that gives the max amp draw.

EG: Same cells as above, rated as 10C cells

2S: 7.4V, 2000 mah (2 Ah), 10C=> 20A max discharge (10(C) * 2 (Ah)= 20A max)

2P: 3.7V, 4000mah (4Ah), 40A max discharge

Thus, you buy lipos in combinations that will suit your motor in terms of voltage and amp draw. A 4S2P (3.7v 4000 mah 15C cells) battery will give 14.8V, 8000 mAh, and 120A max discharge (8Ah*15C.) A 7xl motor will draw ~100A, so that batt would be fine, but a 4s2P 6000 mAh 15C batt would be too low amp wise.

Obviously you can buy 2 2S2P batteries and make a Y-adapter to run them in series for a 4S2P battery if that config suits your usage better.

Correct Finnster!

the C stands for the normal capacity of the cells.

Normally I run 2 x 7 cells. So with Lipo I should have 2 x 2S2P with a Y-adapter or 1 x 4S2P is that right ???

More info about the motor/esc setup are velcome

right.

What info you want more?

I just wan´t to be as sure as possible that I get the right system. The 7xl with the 9920 or quark 125 seems to be a powerfull setup (thats what I want). I´m comparing a little to the Novak HV 4.5 that I also have in mind.

And is the quark worth the 80 $ more then the 9920

I think its worth the extra...

I don't now, I'm happy with the 9920.. but I'd have to buy a 125B to see if it's worth it.... Probably is...

IMO, the Quark is worth it. It is smoother at low speeds, has an LVC, manufactured in the US (faster warranty that going to Germany I'd imagine) more programmable, and has an easily mountable case to protect its fragile internals. The only downsides is that it doesn't seem to like 6s lipo and it heats up without some form of secondary heatsink.

But if you already have the 9920 (and happy with it), I don't know if I'd get the Quark, unless of course $$$ is no object. :)

I have one on my Revo and it works great: Pic1 Pic2 (I really should take better pics now I have a non-broken camers).

I have had them both (9920 and 125B). The quark is far better. Smoother, more progarming options, and easier to program, and packed in a nice neat little package. Not the chincy looking shrik wrap the 9920 has. I have since ditched my 9920 and replaced it with a quark. So now I am all Quark.

One note though. The quark runs best/coolest if you put an additional heat sink on the bottom of the aluminum case. Most just use an old computer heat sink or something.

Dont get me wrong. the 9920 is a pretty darn nice controller. The Quark is just more refined. Well wothr the extra. IMO

How is the Quark easier to program?? The 9920 is about as easy as it gets...

I prefer seing the LEDs to show you the setting. If you have the cable for the 9920, that is pretty easy, but it never worked for me. I dont have a computer that doesnt run WinXP and the BK software doesn't work with WinXP. I guess the correct statement is you cant program the BK for anything other than the absolute basics unless you use the cable.