Looking for professional advice to start a BL EMAXX
 

I've officially started my first brushless project, and I'm ready to start getting some of the big parts. I need some info on what to get.

First off, I have a typical emaxx with a couple modded parts like integy bulks. Nothing special. I'll be running mashers for wheels. I'm going to be running 12 cells, probably 3300's. Here is what I know I need so far...

Driveshafts. The stock ones suck and will frag with a bl spitting out 1800+ watts I'm sure. What is the best/best value CVD to run?

Transmission is probably part #2 to fail. I'm going to be doing the single speed conversion/hardened idler/Gorillamaxx conversion.

UBEC

I'm getting frustrated on what to get. Too many options to start, and too expensive to screw up.

Motor (Still looking for recommendations here. Lehners are too expensive. How are the mambamax or Feigao? What size/kv do I need for my setup?)

ESC (Looking at the Mambamax combo, or a 9920. Good choice?)

Gearing

Clutch

Any other incidentals?

I'm ready to start this, but the only stopping point so far is what to get. I need someone to say "To start out, get this and this and this and you will be fine. Later you can upgrade." Everytime I start, I wind up with a emaxx that is going to cost me $4,000 cause I have the gold plated titanium unobtanium Lithuanian battery git'er-rid'er-of'ers and high speed muffler bearings, etc. and I just get carried away.

I want simple, raw power. Show me what the hype is on brushless. MAKE ME A BELIEVER! :027:

LOL! I think you should be safe to get rid of the muffler bearings, but you DO need blinker fluid. :)

Don't know about the driveshafts but maybe the stock Revo sliders will fit. I know they are strong enough - it's just a matter of fit I think.

You are on the right track about the tranny. That steel idler gear is a must as well as the single speed hub part that locks 2nd gear (or you could glue 2nd gear to the dog gear). Whether or not you get the half-case adaptor is your choice, If you do, you eliminate first gear altogether. If you want the full plastic case (which I did for more mounting holes) keep first gear as a spacer but cut the gear part off so all you're left with is a hub. Some people remove the unneeded first gear on the input shaft for less weight. That's up to you.

Mike sells a nice UBEC at the RCM store. It has plenty of power, is 6v (not 5v), is stable, and efficient. There are others on ebay and such maybe cheaper that I've heard work well.

Motor. Well, that can be a little tricky for a first timer. The Mamba Max motors are too small. If budget is a concern, pick up a Wanderer XL size or similar Feigao. If you want quality, and price is not so much an option, the Neu or LMT motors are really nice. For 12 cells, I'd get a Wanderer 7XL or 8XL. The 7XL will give you more top-end speed, but will reduce runtime since there are fewer turns. The 8XL will still go nicely and also allow room to go to 14 cells later on.

ESC. The Mamba Max is a nice little controller and highly programmable. It can run 12 cells no problem, although I don't know if I'd run 14 cells. If you think you might increase your cells later on, then maybe the 9920 or Quark 125B might be better. On those motors, you want a controller that can handle no less than 100A (99A is ok).

Gearing. I used a 51T spur and 14T pinion, but that was Mod1 pitch on an 8XL motor (14 cells) and it ran good. However, the strobe slipper I used is VERY hard to get now, so you might end up using a different pitch gears. 51T/14T is a 3.64:1 ratio. I would start right around that ratio, but using whatever gear type you pick.

Clutch. Like I said, the strobe slipper is what was generally used, but are almost impossible to get. I've heard rumors that the Revo slipper set-up can be used instead, but I don't know what options that gives you for gearing.

Stock shafts in the front and UE cvd's in the rear should be fine.

Once you get your first setup and decent batteries, i can guarantee you are a believer.

Two choices for the drive shafts. the most cost effective being the upgrade to the Traxxas 3.3 T-Maxx control arms, steering knuckles & bearings, and the drive shafts.

The second alternative being Unlimited Engineering Supermaxx 6mm or 8mm Steel CVD's. The new MIP parts are ok too but the U.E. is still preferred.

First of I would say any project building a BL is going to be expensive bc the maxx is inherently a weak platform to build on, hence the multitude of upgrades "needed" and available in the marketplace. Its not the worst, ad still a great truck when finished, but you can get better for easier and cheaper.

Personally I dumped my maxx and converted a Revo and have not looked back. My maxx seemed like a constant frustration even with brushed motors and tons of upgrades. The Revo stock is a tougher and lighter truck from the beginning. Just for example, the revo has a full length 3mm alu chassis that is one solid piece, as opposed to the maxx that has weak connections between the chassis "dogears' to bulks to skidplat to chassis braces back to chassis. All the force of a front end crash goes into the bulks and the 3mm screws that tie them into the rest of the chassis. If the bulks don't break, all that force goes into lateral force that often shears the screws. If you now have alu bulks, you are left with bent, stripped and or sheared off screw holes. I could go on, but you know what i mean.

Brushless power is that good. Watch some vids if your not convinced. I will never run a brushed motor again.

If your married to 12 cells (even 14) you could go with a Felag/Bk wanderer 7xl or a 8xl for 12-16 cells. I have a 8xl on 14 and its very powerful. I also run a mamba max esc w/ a ubec and really like it. it has a 100A capability, so the 7xl might be a bit hot for it, but the 8xl draws around 85-90A, so its fine. The MM system is a 1/10 system, so the motors themselves are too small for a MT, the esc itself is a powerhouse tho.

The Quark 125 can handle upto 18 cells and 125A if you are thinking of going higher power than that later, but its nearly twice the price so... choose carefully if you are on a budget.

As far as ubecs go, theres not to much to it. Find one that matches the specs you need.

Why did you post two of the exact same threads with different names?

Please don't.

LOL. Maybe he can merge those too?

Bytheway, the UE 8mm's can only be used in conjunction with the UE knuckles, which makes the project price go a bit up...

like i said, keep the front ones plastic and the rears solid, you have got some flex in the drivetrain. .

Thanks everyone. I started this project awhile ago, but lost interest due to frustration. Revo vs maxx. nimh vs lipo. motor vs motor vs gearing... :035:

I'm probably going to stick to the maxx platform now because I have two of them and lots of parts. I'd love to get the G3 'Rillamaxx, but too much money for me.

Tonight I'm going to order a Wanderer 8xl and probably go with a 9920 or a Mamba. Quark if I get some more cash to spend.

How does that Novak GTX (I believe that is it) esc run? I never hear anyone talk about it. It has the clear plastic case on it, and runs brushed/brushless.

Also, is there really a difference from the Lehner 1950 series motors and the lower dollar Wanderers? Performance or quality wise?

The LMT's are more efficient motors than the wanders'. Although they get the job done quite well.

while the Neu is a better value for the money.

that is foresure!

Its for sensored brushless motors. Different league of motors. Apparently the new HV-Maxx runs pretty well, but not up to speed with a 7 or 8XL.

I like the idea of you using some 3.3 arms and center sliders. Stock emaxx centers will not hold up. The titans will twist those, let alone a brushless.

You're pretty much limited to an RRP slipper, as its about the only one still made. Mine is holding up so far.

Deans plugs or Andersons on all your batteries is a must.

I run a Fiego 10L in my Revo and I'm happy with it. It has enough power to make me a believer, and its not so fast that I need to worry my about temps. The Emaxx diffs have a different ratio than the Revos do, so when looking at gears, and what "we" run in the revos is going to be slightly different. I'm at 15/66 on my Revo - quite a bit different than what BrianG is running. I did not get a steel idler, as they have been out of stock for forever also. My tranny seems to be holding up so far (that may be one of those "upgrade later" items). You will likely want to order steel pinions from Mike when you order your motor (likely will be a 5mm shaft). Get several of them to try different ratios.

If you dont already have one, an infrared temperature sensor to check your temps.

Wheelie bar. Or a wing. You WILL need it.

They've covered the CVD's already.

i wasted the stock idler with 12 cells and the 7XL, that's why i don't put my money on the stock ilder anymore!

I wasted the second gear in my girls truck a few weeks ago. Got the single speed and threw the steel idler in that baby and ZOOM ZOOM! No probs!