Tranny Case
 

Stupid question I know, I promise it will be my last (well until the next one anyway) but if I were to purchase the transmission case from FLM for my electric rustler... what exactly needs to be done... I assume rebuilding the transmission parts into the new case... Would this be a good time to upgrade parts inside there... and if so... any suggestions on what to swap?

Also is the rebuild a highly technical operation?

u should pick up a steel idler while ur at it and i think thats all ud need. with the installation i heard some people had to do some grindin on the plastic parts to get it to fit right but isent that hard, i ordered one too so.

FYI, it's an aluminum idler. Also, I had no problems at all putting mine together. You can basically just transfer all the guts from your existing tranny to the new FLM case.

my mistake,lol ya u should get the aluminum idler. other then that ur all set.

It depends on what power you're pushing. If your running over 8 cells, you should consider an Al diff cup (comes with a steel diff gear). Much stronger than the plastic diff. And the spider gears inside are a direct swap. Only problem I found with this upgrade is it leaves you with a steel diff gear and steel top gear spinning against an Al idler. Strong, but the idler will file down in NO TIME. Mike and I have discussed producing steel idlers and including them as a package with the Al diff asm. Not sure if it's on the priority list though.

I personally run high HP, so I have a full steel geartrain in mine (yes, even the idler is hardened steel....custom made from gear stock).

Cadima, can you tell me how have you make your Steel idler please, because i've order the steel diff gear from rc-monster, so i'll want to have a 100% steel tranny.

Thank you!

You can find gear stock here:

https://sdp-si.com/eStore/

and then (with a lathe) cut a duplicate, but in steel. Then heat it until it's glowing red and quench it in water.

Woooo!! i don't understand what you mean by gear stock.
If i understand, i order a plastic gear on this site, an i ask to someone who work with lathe to do an other gear but in steel???

If it's this, can you tell me wich gear to order on this site please:024:

Thank you very much for your help, i appreciated.

Gears are usually sliced from extruded gear stock (a really long gear, imagine a silly puddy machine pumping putty through a gear shaped cutter). See this link for a picture of gear stock....

https://sdp-si.com/eStore/GroupHead.asp?GroupID=592

I can't remember if it's the 14.5 or 20 degree pressure angle off the top of my head, but use this link and select from the drop down 48 pitch, and 30 teeth (same as stock) and you've got yourself a long idler gear. All that's left to do is cut to length, bore out some holes for the shaft and bearings, and you're done!


https://sdp-si.com/eStore/Select.asp...SearchPattern=
Modified=00F4DA1210F0C601A7


OR, ask Mike what he'd charge to make you one himself. He may or may not have the time for one time custom parts. But everyone has their price!

Final resort, keep plenty of spare Al idlers on hand. Depending on your truck weight, slipper settings, how you drive, etc... you may fine the AL idlers to be ok.

Yessssssssssssss:027: this time i understand.

I order one and ask to my friend to cut out the hole for the bearing.
But you said to heat them to red color and dump it in cold water, this is to hardened it???

And for the pressure angle, if i don't tke the good one, this is make a big difference??

I've had no problems with the stock diff in the aluminum tranny case running 4s Lipo on either a Mamba Max 4600 or Feigao 540 12s (3000 kv). However, the stock diff didn't last more than a minute in a stock tranny case with the Mamba Max 4600 motor on 4s Lipo.

You're right, the plastic diffs will take some decent abuse. It just depends on your weight, tires and surface you run on, idler condition (very important), motor and gearing, etc. I obviously exceeded that limit, and needed a change. I am surprised to hear you have no problems with a Feigao on 4s! You must treat her well :027:

Yes, heating in until red hot and plunging it in water will give you a little case hardening (not very deep into the steel but a little). This will give you better life when spinning against two other steel gears.

Water will make it more brittle than if you were to cool it in oil.

Suppose you could go all out if you feel necesary. I don't think I go deep enough into the grain to worry about brittleness. But you did remind me, I always bake the gears in the oven at ~ 300 F for a few hours to anneal them. Maybe that's why I've never had any problems (except for the nagging wife at dinner time).