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2wd stadium truck for drag?
Hi everybody.
In my area all that have wheels is drag raced, so I am planning on building a Mamba Max 2wd stadium truck to drag against the local nitro ones. I found that there a lot of aluminum parts for the Rustler drive train, so it looks promising. What are your recomendations for a good plattaform and hop up parts to cope with a 3s lipo 5700 Mamba Max power on drag racing? Thanks:037: |
Definately the Rusty....I wouldn't go with the 5700 setup though. I would choose a Neu motor with a Mamba Max ESC. How fast are they running at your track?
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Our racing is at parking lots, only 132 feet. I think the 2wds trucks are on the 40's.:037:
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You should break 60 with the right combo...Like I said, I would go with a a Neu motor. Like a 1509. That and a Mamba Max will kick ass...
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i am interested int the neu motors but the one you mention has an 5mm output shaft.
To my knowledge allmost all 1/10th electric offroad rc cars excluding tamiya use 48dp spur and pinions. Do you know of anyone who sells 48dp pinions or is there neu motors that have a 3.2mm output like standard 1/10th motors. |
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To answer your question of what will you need platform and hopup wise. The Rustler definitely has the most potential to bullet proof. This is what you would need to make the drive train as strong as it possible can be. Well there are a few things that are ABSOLUTE MUSTS: 1) CVD's (MIP are good) http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...MIP1219&cat=29 2) Aluminum Idler for Tranny http://www.buytraxxas.com/product_in...roducts_id=342 3) RPM Wheel Hubs w/ Bearings. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXNY90&P=ML http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXNY89&P=ML Highly recommended(maybe even necessary depending on the power): 1) Aluminum tranny case http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...ltranny&cat=29 2) Steel/Alum Diff* http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...edediff&cat=29 I think this list will pretty much make the drive train as bulletproof as possible. The RPM wheel hubs and bearing should be done anyway. |
I would do the dogbone conversion instead of the CVD's though. Also with an electric truck you should do really good compared to the nitros because brushless motors will make the truck accelerate so much faster than a nitro engine can. So I would say you could win it all if you can keep the tires on the ground and the car moving instead of doing a burnout.
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on seths note i recomend that for drag racing you almost lock your diff. i am not aquanted with the rustler but if it has a ball diff setting it very tight will give the car a kind of posidrive that will make it accellerate very straght and true even when wheelspining.
secondly a drifting gyro helps keeping a car from spinning out when draging if you loose traction for example i could keep on the gas constant and the gyro would correct any rotation of the car and keep it true even when wheels were franticly spinning. |
The Rustler actually has a planetary diff so...It's either all or nothing. I think some REALLY heavy grease might make somewhat of a difference, but I'm not sure....Anywho, the gyro idea is a good one! Never woulda thought of that...
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I have an Associated rc10t4 with a mamba 5700 and with 6 cells NIMH it is running high 30s to low 40 right now
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I just had a look at Traxxas' website and it looks as though they offer a "Pro Ball Diff" as an option for the Rustler...I didn't know that...Seems as thought it might be an option...
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If your main goal is drag racing, why buy a 2WD stadium truck? A 4WD buggy will accelerate much better because you don't have to worry about keeping wheelies under control.
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Heck with any of those options...pick yourself up a drag kit from here:
http://grandmotorsports.com/default.asp If all you want to do is go fast in a straight line, why bother with something not designed for it? |
Thanks for the response. In fact I do own a couple of Grands cars. But locally we do have like a "2wd" stadium truck category mostly composed of nitro RC10s, I do want to bring an electric one to do the battle.:037:
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