Feiago 8s and 7018?
 

I have the Feigao 8s now and I need a controller. I run a traxxas stampede mainly in the backyard on jumps. Will the warrior 7018 be enough for this motor?

The 7018 can handle the 8s in certain situations such as yours. Tire size, gearing and terrain all play a part in how well it works. A fan also helps. The 9918 controller can handle it with ease. The 7018 controller can handle it as long as you don't gear it to the moon and add a bunch of cells. Welcome to the forum, by the way.

Dang, that was a fast reply. Anyway, thanks. Glad to be part of the forums.

I run masher 2k's and gear it around 15/84. I run 6 or 7 cells. How is the cogging with the 9918 on low cell counts? Also, when do you plan on having more in stock?

What motor/controller do you currently run? The warrior controller work best with a receiver pack when the cell count is below 8 cells. The bec voltage cutoff is 5.5volts (under hard acceleration from a standstill, 6 and 7 cell pack voltage drops below this level, which cause the controller to cut motor power for the sake of maintaining servo power-a receiver pack bypasses this cutoff). I hope to have the 9918 controller back in stock next week.

I currently have the Novak ss system. I bought this 8S motor from Jamie when he first got them. I've never got the chance to hook it up due to funds being low. I plan on running a UBEC. I am getting another stampede to put the 8S in.

I had a 4200 and 18.61k a while back that was defective that I got from CRAPDESIGNRC. Well he said it was defective anyway. After a long dispute he gave me my money back and I bought the 8S. Now I just need a controller.

I don't think the UBEC will substitute the receiver pack in this situation. The main pack voltage will still drop(may be better, though, but a receiver pack is best). The 4200/7018 combo is very nice in the pede/rustlers. The 8s is a also nice motor for sure, but it can eat drivetrain parts if you aren't careful(It is a bit more powerful than the 4200).

So, do you think the 7018 will work based on what I've said? Or should I wait on the 9918. I just don't want to worry about cogging on low cell counts.

And I'll defiently need a rec. pack? I know I'll need one of your heat sinks/braces.

The 7018 will definately work, but the 9918 is a better controller for sure. For 6 or 7 cell operation, a receiver pack is what you need (you may need this to keep the front end down anyways!). A fan is always a good idea as well, although it isn't necessary. For $8, it is cheap insurance though if you ask me. Cooler is always better.

I guess I'm a little confused. Will I need a rec. pack for both the 7018 and the 9918? I figured the UBEC would take care of that. What is the deal with the UBEC then?

Yes, either warrior controller will need a receiver pack. The UBEC provides a constant 6 volts to the servos by using the main battery packs and a voltage regulator, and is an excellent product for folks using 12-30 cells on controllers that either don't have a built in bec or the bec on theier controllers isn't rated for the high cell counts they use. Most controller becs only provide 5.5 volts to the servos as well, so the UBEC allows slightly crisper steering response with its provided 6 volts .

When the UBEC's input voltage drops below the 5.5 volts it will simple bypass it's circuit.

The voltage is not only used for the steering servo, but also needed to power up the controller. because of the high currents that will be pulled from your batts, the voltage can drop below the 5.5 volts. If the power that the controller gets is too low, it wil result in a stuttering take off. (not cogging, but real stuttering)

Better is a stable 6V receiver pack.

8s + 7018 + Heatsink/Clamp is what i'm running in my rustler. I've run up to 14 cells(crappy cells) on it so far :D and the ESC/Motor get hot, but not scorching. Even on 12GP's they dont get scorching hot. On 6 cells or when i'm racing the motor and ESC are luke-warm after the battery dumps. Make sure your tranny is shimmed good or the 8s will eat it alive.

Mine was undrivable due to cogging without the reciever pack, but once i put in a reciever pack its smooth as silk. I've got the alu front shock tower, so i zip tied it to the top cross bar on the front-end, keeps those wheelie's in check ;-)

I have the 8s and the 7018 in my Stampede. I also have a reciever pack in it too. I do get some cogging at low speeds but it smooths out when it gets up to about walking speed. As for heat with the ESC, without a fan I was seeing temps of 170 and thermaling, when I put a small 5 volt fan over the ESC it keeps temps under 120 and no thermaling at all. The downside to adding a fan was I imediately got severe glitching that made it undriveable. I solved that by glueing tinfoil to cardboard and then making it 2 layers, now I only get glitching at a distance ; I'm guessing over 200 feet away. If your planning to use 15/84 gearing your gonna have a very hard time keeping the front tires on the ground. Mine is geared 18/84 and I have an RX pack mounted in front of the shock tower along with FLM shock tower and an aluminum brace and I can barely the front on the ground with a 6 cell pack, and here I was thinking about getting a 6s; that would've been way too much power.

The biggest problem I'm having with it now is stripping the diff gear. I strip them every time I run a 7 cell pack, I even tried being gentle on it tonight and accelerating slowly and stripped it anyways. The plastic diff gear holds up with a 6 cell pack but can't handle anymore for long. I'm trying to get a steel diff but it looks like Cold Fusion Racing is out of business, no reply to e-mails and the site is down.

(MIKE, have you been able to get ahold of Andy yet?)

Here's a couple shots of where I put the RX pack; the black plastic holder is the half with the screw holes for the HPI nitro Rush battery holder. I had bought it for a mod on another truck and I noticed the holes lined up perfectly with holes in the FLM shock tower, just had to come up with a stand off for it.

http://img17.echo.cx/img17/8615/img05967rl.th.jpg

http://img17.echo.cx/img17/5183/img05979wx.th.jpg

Here's a link to the battery holder if you decide to get it, not sure what other shock towers it'll line up with but if you decide to get the Fastlane Machine towers, Mike here has them.

HPI Nitro Rush Bumper and Battery Box set

Thunder, what exactly goes wrong with your diff? Do your strip the outside gear or the spider's? I've got 50+ runs on mine, some of those 12-14 cells and havent had a single problem with my diff. I covered the outside of it with heavy white grease and put the regular traxxas stuff inside it.

I've stripped 3 of the plastic diff gears and one set of planet gears when I tried the 300k diff fluid. Went back to the grease in the diff and the plant gears are fine. Granted the tires are usually spinning and throwing grass, rocks and dirt but for whaqtever reason a 7 cell pack just destroys the diff gears. I stripped one in less than one charge once. With 6 cell packs it'll last seemingly forever though. But as strange as it sounds, the spur gear is still the stock one the truck had when I got it.