Alrighty...some questions and news
 

May be the wrong forum, I'm not sure, still figurin' this place out. Anyway, got the mwe-revo up and runnin', and found I liked it, and the power from my 6.5 was great, I really couldn't "gas" it at any speed if I was less than full throttle or it would wheelie so violently I could not control it and it would flip. Buuutt, I didn't flip my diffs, didn't know i should, so I was just runnin' my truck with the throttle channel reversed on the transmitter after programming.

Apparently this fried the esc, which I think is absurd. I didn't realize it at the time, but I have since determined that i was effectively, as far as the esc and motor knew, running the truck in reverse the whole time. Apparently the hv esc has a problem with this. So now I have a good esc for perhaps a landsail or gravity operated vehicle? Maybe you could stuff the motor in the front for a noseweight. I have steering and shifting, but no throttle whatsoever, it will not go into programming mode, and the led will not show. It'll cost about a hundred bucks to fix.

I have a student loan i've been attempting to get for quite some time to use for living expeses, clothes, etc. I'm not even sure if I get it if I'll be able to actually get that money in hand to use as I wish, which is the whole reason I took it out, hopin' for that. Anyway, if it works out correctly as planned, I will have a little money I can set aside to fix this. I've considered going with an 8xl and mamba max esc, and of course disabling the bec and running an external ubec so I can run on 14 nimh cells.

My largest question is, would I be able to purchase everything I need from rc-monster? The system, ubec, gears, and possibly slipper? If I do this I'm thinkin' I'll upgrade the slipper as well. I've always run mine locked down very tight because my truck sees no airtime, and actually the stock pegs have worn down very little if any, but I'm sure if I send sensorless power to it that will change, at least I hope so. I'm kinda sick, waited so long, got it workin' for like 3 days, loved it, esc fried, presumably because it was running backwards. No water, it was very dry, it was not overgeared, if anything undergeared, like I said I could nail the throttle at 25 mph and it would flip right over. No unusually hard jolts impacts or crashes.

Yep... Mike should have all the stuff you need. Check out thte store... start putting things in the 'cart'. :)

I don't know about the slipper. The first upgrade on my emaxx was a RRP slipper. I never had any trouble with that.

The strobe slipper is the thing most maxx's use for BL power. But you still have to keep it fairly tight.

To reverse direction of the motor, you just swap two motor wires. Don't know if it's the same for the Novak, but I don't see why not. It's possible the ESC had more "forward" FETs than reverse so those were stressed more. It could simply be the sensorless gods forcing you to buy a sensorless system. :)

Yes, everything can be purchased from here. Even if there is something you want but don't see in the store, email Mike and he can get it.

Sweet, I'm just gonna flip my diffs for the next time, I know how to do that, know I won't mess it up, and know it'll work lol.

Another question, my soldering skills are poor, how good does the soldering have to be on the ubec and motors etc? I don't wanna screw something else up because I made a subpar solder joint that somehow fries something. Really all the soldering I've ever done was directly soldering a 12 volt fan to my hv-maxx esc, and repairing a few broken wires.

Also, an 8xl on 14 cells with mamba max esc and ubec will be a good setup on about a ten lb erevo, right? And run reliably. I'm open to suggestions on other setups, but that seems like a good one to me from my research, and fairly cheap as far as sensorless goes.

Well, a good solder joint is really important everywhere, but a poor joint in heavy current wires can create resistance which will heat up. A poor solder joint in things like a BEC connection could cause intermittent power to a receiver, which could cause glitching or momentary loss of power (and control). It's really easy to have poor solder joints to cause some very weird symptoms that are sometimes hard to trace.

There is a sticky somewhere here about soldering and the care of soldering tools.

That's what I figured. If I find I still feel like I'm unsure of my abilities, I may just order a 4.5 hv. There's no hobby shops near, so I couldn't go get them to do it for me. When I go home from school there is one about an hour from my home, I could just wait and do that, though I really have no idea what my timeframe is on gettin' the system or if i will, so i may be home already by the time I get it.

Really, you just need a clean properly sized/power iron, the proper solder (NOT acid core), and practice. The idea is to heat the item being soldered and let the solder flow into the joint when it gets hot enough.

My iron is a 25 watt, and lenk is the brand. It's yellow handled? I have no idea what the solder is that I use, the iron and solder were given me by my grandpaw.

The iron seems to me to be decent, but I have nothing to compare it to lol. I sand the tip of the iron every now and then, reckon if i do get the motor and such I'll get some known solder. Perhaps flux? I keep hearing of heating the stuff, letting the solder flow, but I've not once seen my solder flow anywhere. It goes where I put it, and i can push it around with the iron lol. I've also found it difficult to hold a wire/iron/solder all at the same time and get them all to meet at the same point. I'm trying to devise some sort of clip mechanism that will hold the wire for me, I need more hands.

maybe mike could solder it for u???

concerdering everything else he does, im shure he would

Hmm, never thought of that, so that would basically have the system sent to me ready to bolt in and program, guess I'll send an e-mail.

yeh, m shure he would, it might cost a lil extra tho.. but imo worth it, i dont like soldering high money systems either lol, but i can solder..

If you could get Mike to put some 4mm connectors on the 8XL, and Deans on the MM leads, with leads for the ubec, you won't have to do any soldering. It should be drop-in ready.

Can you handle velcro? lol...

Sounds like you need some flux or rosin core solder.. and need to clean the part you are soldering to with sandpaper or steel wool, etc. Then the solder will stick... flow... onto the surface.

Sweet, I think I could do it, but if I could get someone who can surely do it w/o messin' anything up I'm not too proud lol. I run powerpoles though, and don't wanna change over my batt.s and charger too.

i have all that and i solder everything, but it looks like brain surgery when i had to put a new red wire on my mm:005: lol it got a lil ripped and the wiere was exposed so i had to solder right to the boardm i was scared but i didnt screw anything up:013: