Fitting new batteries in old trays?
 

I finally bought a new Emaxx this weekend :027:
I was getting it set up to run, almost ready, then I found...
my ep4200 stick packs don't quite fit into the battery trays! :026:

I understand that the newer gen of batteries are slightly larger than the older 1500 - 2400 type cells, which I assume the chassis was designed around.

What clever fixes have you guys come up with for this (aside from a gmaxx chassis and lipo's...)???

I just wanna run stock for awhile first...

How far off fitting are they? Some of my packs have been tight, but if you put them in on the right angle and forced them just a little bit (I found it best to force them towards the outside of the car) they would fit.
Which way don't they fit, length ways, width or both?

It shouldn't be, but just check one of the motor wires that clips on the side of the transmission isn't hanging down into the battery tray, that happened to me sometimes.

I don't really have any advice for modifying anything though, since I've never had to.

It should be large enough to fit the 4200's.. next question..Have you got a steady hand and a dremel? or are you ready for your first upgrade!? (an FLM chassis.. :) )

Are the packs too wide or too long, or both? I think the Dremel + drumsander attachment will work wonders either way- set it to max rpms though and wear goggles/mask.

the problem is where the wires exit the center-endcap of the packs. other than that, they would fit, but the screw-post started slicing thru the insulation (yikes!). so.....
what I've done for the time being is dremel cut the post level w/ the tray sides, round off that edge, cut 2 small pieces of vacuum tubing and sliced them lengthwise. I put the tubing on the tray lip on both sides of the post.
what that does is hold that end of the pack up just high enough and creates a gap for the wires. (both sides) (sorry I don't have a pic...)
Took a small velcro tie and run it thru one of the center batt slots and around the pack and outside edge of the chassis. that's working pretty well for now.
I was trying to do as little modifying as possible until I decide (or learn) the best set up. I already figure I'll end up dremeling out the post completely creating a notch in the tray end for the wires.
I've got 2 side-by-side packs on order and plan to get some 7-cell packs later, so I want to see how those are gonna fit before I cut any more.

btw- I'm REALLY digging' the truck, 'cept for the weak steering servo. that's next on the list.

Stick packs? Yeah, I can see where that might be a problem due to the way the end caps add length and the wires come right out of the top of the end cap. What you could do is break your stick packs down and turn them into side by side packs. This would allow you to put the exit wires in a more traditional location and would probably allow your fat batteries to fit.

+1 on the shiny, strong, aluminum goodness!

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17...flmchassis.jpg


mmmm, shiny:018:

I would have said it if Serum hadn't beaten me to it! LOL!

If you can afford it buy the FLM chassis. The battery fitment (holds up to 8-cells) and the added length of the chassis are worth it not to mention the added strength and improved appearance!

you guys are a bad influence :005:

...I want to run as much stock as I can...for awhile. I've already spent too much right now also. We'll see how long I can hold out...

I know I won't be able to resist forever.....

oh wow...it's only $90!? I expected more.
so which end gets the new driveshaft? I assume that everything else (stock) bolts right up? does it come w/ hold down straps, or is everyone using the gorilla straps?

That chassis and some alum bulkheads and I'd be set for awhile, eh???


*does anyone have a naked pic of one assembled?

The back end gets the driveshaft. The stock front one works fine (or MIP, UE, etc.)

Most everything is a bolt on. No location for antenna or on/off switch. Aside from that all else bolts up well. Use a DuBro alloy antenna mount. Works like a charm. Use servo tape for the on/off switch and attach it to the side of the esc. Problems solved.

pics here

If it was me I'd stick with the stock chassis for now, I never had an problems with mine in 5 years bashing and racing.

I think some of my old stick packs used to be hard to get in as well. I think we (my bother has an e-maxx as well, but he hasn't used it in a couple of years) used to just put some small cuts in the end cap so the wires can come out at a different angle and it shortens the length of the pack by about 3mm. We had the wires going either side of the post and never had any problems after that and never had to do anything to the chassis. I deffinately would not want to be cutting off battery posts.

Thanks for all the info guys! It's appreciated :027:

Q: about the slow steering - will a better servo cure it, or just a servo saver, or will I need to upgrade both??
It's especially frustrating when I get into a tight spot and the wheels won't turn in order to drive out...

I'd get both. When I upgraded my servo I started breaking the stock servo saver all the time, until I bought a better one.