no wires... esc, motor mount/heatsink
 

Hi guys, I was just looking at my Quark and 7XL, and thought that maybe I could make a mount/heatsink that would have the motor outputs on the Quark directly on top of the motor leads, then directly soldering them up into the little cups that are on the Quark.

I am just wondering about heat leaching into the esc... :032: as there would be about 1cm of wire!

Let me know if this would be a good idea?

I know that having short wires is important, but I also like to have that little buffer for movement too. I had a motor shift a good inch during a crash, and if there hadn't been any wiggle room, I'd hate to think of the physical damage that the esc would have received.

hmm, I think the main issue might be heat, not really movement. I did the internal adhesive mod to the Quark, so nothing is going anywhere.

Do you think it's a good idea with a 7XL? Maybe a 9XL would be a better motor for that? Also, the esc would hang over the pinion area.

Do you mean the motor shifted in the motor mount an inch?

What happened to me was that a truck pulled into the area where we usually run cars. And I hit the tire doing over 45. The impact stripped the mounting screw holes out of the motor and it moved. Had it been soldered directly to the esc, it would almost certainly have ripped the pcb apart on the esc. On the other hand, it seems that this sort of stuff only happens to me. LOL

yikes, at 45... you must have broke more than just the motor eh? :eek:

Personally I don't think its a good idea. You have to rememeber, if you shorten the motor wires, theres a coating thats a bitch to get off. And I think AAngel is right. To many things can go wrong...

What coating do you mean?

If you were to make a solid motor mount with a heatink mount for the quark, I think it should be very good mechanical wise. But maybe there will be too much heat in one spot...? It would be nice if the Neu's came with radial power wires.

oh, what if I were to solder some 3.5mm plugs directly onto the quark, and the motor, then it would just plug right on? 5mm plugs are too big

I think that the 3.5mm plugs would be too small. I don't think that they are rated for much current at all.

The wires on the Feigaos that I've seen have the last half inch or so bare and tinned so that you can solder to them. The rest of the motor wires appear to have some sort of varnish on them, which (from what I understand) resist soldering.

As for my little accident, I turned my buggy chassis into a canoe. Other than that, I had to rotate the motor to use the other mounting holes, I had to get a make a new set of standoffs for my servo tray, and bend the servo tray straight. I put the chassis into the oven on 500* for about an hour and then put it into a vice and straightened it. It's running now.

Oh really, I probably wouldn't be able to strip the enamel off the wire either... and any longer than a couple cm is pointless to do this. So, maybe just scrap that idea... :007:

Was your chassis alum.? How would 500F make it more pliable?

You can strip the enamel off motor wires, I have done it when rewinding 540s and speed 700s but its not easy, you cant just use wire stripersyou have to scrape the enamel off with a knife blade till you get to copper.

You'd really have to take some time to do that! Each wire should be totally stripped for best connection. IIRC, there is a solution that you can dip the wires in that dissolves the varnish. Can't remember what it is called though. And you have to be VERY careful that the solution does get wicked into the motor and into the coils! :eek:

Go with 5.5 or 6mm connectors. Skip the 3.5's.

The coating is a PITA to get off thats the main reason manufacturer's tell you NOT to shorten to wires as most people can't do a decent job of removing the coating ant then you create all kinds of problems!

Yes, I have done alot of wire stripping (enamel) in my days. Mostly for tesla coil projects.

There would be no way to properly strip all the insulation off like you guys said. The liquid solution sounds scary as it probably WOULD wick into the motor windings! :019:

BTW, does anyone HAVE a fried 540C version motor that they could see how far the wire is actually stripped and soldered? If it is soldered just after the shrink tubing that covers all three wires, that is actually where I would like to solder it to the esc. Again, I just don't know if when the motor gets to 180F (does the 540C version get this hot?), if too much heat will leach into the esc, and IF a good heatsink will be able to handle it?

I just realized, once you solder it to the motor the way I was saying, you won't be able to get it off (at least not being a PITASOB)