RC-Monster Forums - Stampede diff help

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Stampede diff help

hey guys
I have a brushless (mamba 5700) pede and im stripping the diff like mad, the outer teeth. I see Mike makes a steel diff but I can only buy that or the FLM case. I have read many that have bought the case and that helped alot with stock diffs. So im looking for suggestions I guess, start with the case first?
Thanks

You are probibly stripping the diffs because of flex in the tranny case. But beware that the FLM case will not fit the stock chassis. You will have to modify the the stock chassis. Either grind off the tabs on the rear of the stock chassis or grind out the chassis where the back of the battery sits.

So I suggest you save untill you money for both.

I run the FLM case and the stock diff. I've only stripped a 5 year old diff.

Interesting, I bought the case the other night from Mike. I will have to see what your talking about once I get it. Im happy with my homebrew chassis stretch and hadnt planned on buying a flm chassis.
If interested here is my ride
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v1...as%20Stampede/

Thanks, Thats a 2" homemade stretch, works awesome. I had to stretch it that much cause the mamba maxx was just insane, couldnt keep it right side up no matter what I did till I stretched it and made a wheelie bar from a extra savage skid.

Welcome to the wonderful world of the worthless pede drivetrain. Soon as you get your metal diff case you will be greatly disappointed when you shred the diff planet gears every other run. It sounds like you are running the aluminum idler gear is this correct? If so then that is you're first problem right there. That aluminum idler is almost as worthless as the stock plastic one. The problem is that soft aluminum starts to wear very very quickly and if you take a close look at it the teeth on it are very sharp in no time. Once the idlers teeth have been sharpened then it doesn't take long before it cuts all the teeth off the diff case. I bought a couple of those metal diff gears and ended up going back to plastic diff AND top gear to try and keep the idler from getting worn and sharpened. I was amazed at how fast that aluminum idler got worn out even with the stock diff and plastic(actually I should say delrin) top gear. In my experience the best thing to do is run the delrin top gear, plastic diff, and one of Mikes Hardened Steal idlers, then loosen up that slipper. You'll soon find out that the diffs planet gears are also very week. If you are running enough power to strip out the top gear or diff case(assuming your idler hasn't been sharpened up), then you are running more then enough power to shatter your planet gears and twist the almost as worthless traxxas drive axles. I know it all sounds crazy and backwards...but it is what I've found over the years of playing with my pedes and rusties. Also, don't be worried about that top delrin gear, it is a heck of a lot tougher then you'd think and it will keep your hardened steal idler in tip top shape for a long time, it also keeps things very quiet and smooth.

Thats wierd. I ran the aluminum idler gear, and the FLM tranny case and never stripped another gear again, except for the spur...

You do much offroading with it? I run in to all my troubles when off roading and jumping. Just running on flat ground doesn't seem to be so hard on things.

To update I got my case today (Thanks Mike! NY to CA in 2 days) and I just got installed, no modding needed!

Just to clarify how the tower screws to the case.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...e/46bcb3aa.jpg

If you use a RPM cover their is one little issue.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...e/b448c0a1.jpg

Looks good. Have you run it yet?

Quote:

Originally Posted by hyperasus

sorry but thats the biggest hunck of crap i have ever heard!!! i jump my pede 8ft n the air, back flips from a stand start and everything else!!! i caouldnt strip anything if i wanted to! something was wrong with ur pede or sumthing, my pede is all flm, 8 cells, mm 5700kv

thats sweet! u should get a swami wheelie bar now!

Guess something must be wrong with all 5 of my pedes and rusties then. In any event I'm not really interested in arguing about it, just offering what I've learned over the my past few years of pede bashing. If what you are doing is working for you then I say don't change a thing. I can say though, if you jumping your pede 8ft in the air like you say(I mean on a regular basis not just once or twice), and not bending it all up then you're alot more careful of a driver then I, which maybe has something to do with why your truck doesn't break as much. I had both a full FLM pede and a FLM rustler that I liked to jump and bash. I was always bending the aluminum all to hell. Actually had to go back to plastic because even though it does break sometimes, I found it easier to replace a cheap plastic part then it was to deal with bent aluminum and hinge pins. Also, I run big LiPo batteries with lower kv motors, so my trucks probably have alot more torque.