Lehner 1950/6 vs 1950/6 high amp
 

OK guys this is starting to bother me. Is there any advantage to running a 1950 high amp motor? I realize that the regular 1950 motors can be soldered to run at lower kv. But that's not what I'm talking about. Let's say you have a 1950/6 vs 1950/6 high amp on a Gorillamaxx. On 4 or 5s LiPo will there be any difference between the two? Will the high amp version run cooler or more efficient? Personally I don't think any of us push these motors hard enough to notice a difference between the two, but then again I don't really know. Would love to know what you guys think about it.

I haven't owned any Lehners, but it's my understanding that you do gain some efficiency by going with the hi-amp version of the motor. The difference, however, is negligible. I believe that the really big deal is that the hi amp version comes with wire leads sticking out of the motor rather than those puny 3mm plugs. That way, you can use more appropriate connectors or direct solder your motor for a better connection.

LOL, I'd rather the 3mm plugs since I just solder a wire to them anyways. having those hard 3mm plugs instead of wire leads is one of the things I really like about Lehner 1900 motors. If the wires get bent back and forth and fray or break you can just re-solder a new wire to them. Also it makes the motor completely sealed which is a big bonus. Having wire leads seems like more of a downside then a + to me.

hyper,

I don't disagree with you, I was just stating the reasons for which many prefer the hi amp versions. Personally, I like the idea of the sockets on the back of the motor and is one reason that I would prefer a Lehner over a Neu. I've just been a bit concerned about the idea of hitting that connector with a soldering iron. I take it that you've done it, and without ill effect.

I think he meant soldering a new one on the esc side, is that right?

No I mean soldering directly to the motor. And yes I've done it with all 3 of my 1920 motors. You certainly need a solder iron that gets really got because those copper windings can wick up the heat all the day long LOL. Those motors are made to get hot and soldering a wire to one of the connectors isn't going to put more heat to the motor then it can handle, unless of coarse you hold the iron to it for a really long time.

I am still curious if the high amp motors have any actual noticeable advantages. I'd buy a 1920 high amp for my pede and find out for myself, but I don't think they make a 1920/12 high amp which is what I would need. On the other hand, I'm getting ready to set up a G3R and this is why I'm trying to find out what difference it will make. I'll buy a high amp 1950 for me Revo if there is any advantage too it. Otherwise I'd rather have the option of converting the motor to lower kv.

Since you don't have the "traces" on the back of the motor for re-configuration, there is less resistance than a high-amp, in which the wires go directly to the coils like a Wanderer for instance. You sacrifice a tiny bit of performance for versatility with the regular configurable one.

OTOH, with the regular one, if at a later date decide to run a higher voltage, you can reconfigure it so you stay within the ideal RPM range. It's like having two motors in one package.

I thought Lehner wasn't doing the reconfigureable ends anymore?
http://www.lehner-motoren.com/ms19.php?la=en

Hmm, that's interesting. So it looks like they thought there were too many losses with the reconfigurable version...

They're just talking about the hi-amp versions being 'no longer reconfigureable',not that they ever were,it's just a translation thing guys.

i want to solder wires directly to my std version lehners,bit concerned about it though,the three little gaps in the solder traces,about the width of a scalpel blade,if the solder melts across those(connecting them),is that reconfiguring from star to delta?

Well, if the Y gaps are bridged (by melting solder or anything really) while the D gaps are still bridged, "bad" things most probably will happen. It'll probably short out the controller. But, since those traces are attached to the wires, you'd have to have a heck of a lot of heat to melt the solder since the wires and can will sink the heat away. I'd be more worried about the motor itself if it got to solder-meltings temps!

Ah,so there's 2 sets of 3 bridges? that's what the lines in the end cap and the red dots on the solder are? so if you bridge the gaps and unbridge the other 3,that's how you change configuration? It doesn't seem like a very easy job 'switching' between the two.I never understood how you do it,as you can probably tell,.lol.

Ah man, this discussion is leading me toward a Lehner now. Am I to understand that there is very little danger of melting a connection on the inside of the motor if I solder directly to the connectors on the motor?

I've done it to all three of my 1920 motors and I'm not even that good at soldering. Seriously doubt it's an issue. Only concern is if the high amp version actually runs cooler or gets longer run times.

I've never really studied the diagram and tried to figure out the internal schematic, but if you look at the diagrams for D and Y configs, you can see that in D, each input wire goes to an end of two coils. In Y, each input wire goes to one end of each coil, and the other end of the coils are connected. So, unsoldering/soldering the various bridges accomplishes this wiring.

Personally, it would have been easier if LMT simply brought the ends of each coil outside the motor and let the user figure out how to hook them up, like this.