E-MAXX woes!
 

Well, after extensive upgrades to the "bigemaxx", I'm att the point where I am frustrated with problems from the rear drivetrain! I'm on the fence on this one, so let me know what you guys think. I am either going with an alloy rear diff housing (I believe the 3.3 is flexing and causing the RRP ring & pinion to strip over and over again), but the E' is a constant money pit. my other options are to detune it and buy a used CEN genesis with a blown motor and convert it to electric. The drivetrain on the genesis seems to be hardcore, but I've never done a conversion like this before, so any help is appreciated!

the genesis drivetrain isn't too good. the driveshafts are made from poor quality steel, and i am not too keen on their diffs either. (the gears have a too large pitch for their size)

Imo a savage is a nice basher, and i am hearing nothing but good stories about the Losi LST too.

The maxx can be made tough as nails, with the right stuff (1/8th diffs) Mike can hook you up with the stuff needed to make it tough..

Seriously though; ditch the large tires, they result in nothing more than bad luck.. They are drivetrain killers.

I am curious about the 1/8th diffs, but I love running a spool in the rear and wouldn't want to loose that option. Are the diffs you're talking about in the RC Monster store?
As far as the Kongs go, I simply love their size, appearance, and performance climbing/bashing. I know I'm asking a lot running these tires with this kind of low end grunt, but I'm sure you can identify with wanting the best of both worlds from your RC's.
I have already loosened my slipper a bit and hope this helps.

I've never done it but I'm going agree with the 1/8th diffs.


Also, I can't help but say ditching the rear spool would be nice on parts. I ran one in my Revo and hated it. It was hard on parts and my drivabllity suffered as well.

yeah, a spool means even more stress. Nice for crawling, but useless for other things..

if you want a spool efect you can go with heavy fluid in the rear in the hb diffs. FYI just incase you did not know to use the hb diffs you have to buy flm hybrid bulkheads.

This to me would be your best bullet proof route in my opinion but I would try ditching the spools first since I'm kinda cheap lol I personaly run 5k in both diffs ( basher only) and it works fine. I get some slippage but the truck is more controllable now instead of with the spool. I'm pretty sure they make some thicker stuff like 10k if you need a little less slippage.

10k all the way up to around 500k...

There right, this is the best route. And hell, I think you can get a locker from Vertigo Performance if you REALLY want one. I wouldn't recommend it, since there really tuff on the drivetrain and make it handle horrible...

You can get much thicker oil than 10k, the thickest I've heard of is 300k.
Alloy diff cases (external and internal) have worked well for me so far, with a 7xl. But if your willing to spend the money, then FLM hybrids and some 1/8th diffs eg HB should be strong enough to not really need to worry about.
What motor are you using in it now?
If you change the rear diff to 1/8th you have to change the front as well since they are a different ratio to e-maxx diffs.
HB also has the Pro diffs which are a different ratio again. For an e-maxx I would use the standard ratio version, but since yours has such big wheels you might want the different ratio. Use BrianG's speed calculator to see what ratio would be best suited to your car if you decide to use 1/8th diffs.

Cool, I may try some thicker lube one of these days.

Thanks for thw input guys. I know I need to dedicate 1 of my vehicles for crawling and 1 for all-out bashing. For now I'm shelving the bigemaxx and will be driving the t-maxx for a while untill I decide.