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MGM 24.160 WarrantY?
It is okay If I solder the wires on my MGM ESC like RC-Monster's picture?....
would that void any warranty?... I really hate the wimpy 3.5mm connectors.. |
good point.
I thought about doing the very same. The problem is that MGM sticks its head in the sand; i told them there is no way the 3.5's are capable of handling the 160A oif current. His answer was simple; You don't take 160A continues from the controller so it should/would be fine.. In my opinion you don't rate a controller for 160A if the plugs are only capable of a rough 60-100 A.. The problem with soldering the wires directly into the 3.5 female plugs (i asume you are planning on doing this?) is that the entire circuit-board needs to be on a fair high temperature to melt the tin completely. You don't want any cold solderpoints on the controller (or any of the powerboards that are connected thru the sockets) |
I believe you should use a high end soldering station to melt the solder without making the boards go hot.
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Heat is heat Captain!
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I have a Compro with the leads soldered on and was looking at it. The problem is that the area you would need to solder to is VERY close to the joints that are holding the connectors in place on the esc.
I don't know how MGM does it, but perhaps the most prudent way to go about it would be to just solder wire into the connectors, rather than on the outside of them. That way, you will at least have the length of wire acting as a heatsink and you'd be able to solder at the top of the connectors, completely opposite from the end that is soldered to the esc. I'd start with really long lengths of wire so that you'll have more sink to wick the heat away. If at all possible, I'd also clamp a heatsink to the bottom of the connector while soldering. I'd also use a soldering station with a tip that can move lots of heat quickly. Perhaps a 5mm chisel tip at about 700*F. |
You mean a large soldering iron to melt the solder? :confused:
I find that pretty odd that MGM would put those 3.5mm on one the highest current esc out there? :032: :031: |
[sarcasm]
The 3.5mm connectors act like regulators. Since they cannot handle ~160A, the effectively help protect the controller by limiting the current. MGM also counts on the wires to pull the heat away from the connectors as a result of this "regulation". [/sarcasm] |
:005:
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I mean a large soldering tip. The larger the tip, the better its ability to transfer heat.
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Yeah, my point as well. I used to solder the sub-c packs with a weak iron and ended up heating the cell and damaging it. With my Hakko soldering station, I can melt the solder and make a perfect joint without even making the cell go hot. You truely need a either a 3mm or larger chesil tip to make things faster.
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+1. A larger tip will retain heat energy longer. It also helps to have an iron that can respond quickly to changes in tip temps. Some of those PCB traces can wick heat away quite fast!
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If you are really commited to this hobby, a good soldering station is essential. Not only for the big jobs, but for the smaller jobs as well. I use a Metcal MX500. It is supposed to be a good station. I know that I like it. Any Hakko is also going to be a really good station.
If you are on a tight budget, check out circuitspecialists.com I got my first station from them and it was better than expected. I don't know why I'm rambling about this, but just thought I'd throw it out there. Many really do discount the value of a good soldering station and go for the cheapo Radio Shack jobs (no offense) and then wonder why they destroy so much of what they are working on. Oh, BTW, the Wellers are nice as well. I just prefer the feel of the wand that comes with the Hakkos and Metcals. |
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