Good base for an E-Revo build
 

I am looking into building an E-Revo but need help in chosing a roller.
I will use the original tranny, Mikes motor mount and probably an 8 or 9XL and MambaMax (if the MMM hasnt showed up).

It looks like I can get an ok deal on a 2.5 Revo roller.
Q1 What would be the drawbacks (if any) when using that instead of the 2.5R or 3.3 version ?
I read something about chassisflex at the motor mount and the newer chassis has some kind of brace to support the motor mount. Would the lack of such a brace be a problem on the 2.5 ?
Would the 8XL heatsink fit without rubbing against other parts, suspension arms ?

I need to use my 2x8000 mAh (2S2P) LiPos from my Emaxx to power the E-Revo.
Q2 Would those be impossible to fit on a 2.5 chassis ?

Q3 How much stuff is needed to convert from 2.5 to say a 3.3 ?

Lots of questions but I dont want to start of with buying the wrong stuff...

A1; the 3.3 uses a longer wheelsbase (chassis) without having the steeringservo's moved. so the position of the batteries on the 3.3 would be more to the rear; since the revo is too light in the front you need to ballance her a bit. which can be done with both the 2.5 and the 3.3. Both versions use the chassis/motormount brace; the motorplate Mike offers uses these braces, so with both chassis you should be fine.

A2; some use L profile, some make their own from plastic; Mike can machine you the batterieholder you want. Basicly you need to flatten some of the 'ears' on the chassis. Just hammer them flat and screw the batterieholder on it. Perhaps a Kyosho batterietray fits as well. But these are getting rare.

A3; motor/controller/UBEC, motorplate, batterieholders and a good set of batteries are needed. If you want to fabric your own parts, a dremel and some patience is needed.

You really have to watch what Serum says there. A dremel and some patience, eh? Serum can do things with a dremel and hammer that I can't do with a milling machine.

Seriously, Serum laid it out for you. I don't have a Revo, but I did help a friend of mine out with his. It isn't hard, just take your time and think things through. If something seems a bit intimidating to you, just take a step back and think about it for a while. You can get it.

Just remember, measure twice and cut once. It's easier to take more material off than to put it back on.

Thanks guys, I will probably go for the 2.5 then.
I will let you know once I get going with my build.

I do have to say, and I'm sure that many will disagree with me, but I like the shorter chassis. For bashing, I find the 2.5 chassis to be more manueverable in tighter spaces. I think the longer chassis will is more stable at speed.

What about motor choice. I am abit concerned about heat, since I wont be using more volts then 4S and 8000 mAh, would the 8XL heat up too much ?
Would the 9XL be a better choice as it, if I got it right, would run cooler ?
I really want to use the full capacity of the batteries without having to worry about heat. Also I wonder how much slower and 9XL would be compared with an 8XL. (I tried the magic RC calculator but there are too many unknow variables to me).
I know pinions and spur, tranny gearing etc would have an impact but if possible I would happy for any "general" comments regarding the 8 versus 9 choice.
I have a Hv-Maxx (6.5) today and a bit more speed out of the Revo would be nice, also the Hv-Maxx do suffer from heating issues (but thats pretty normal to the Hv-Maxx).

There is a noticeable speed difference between the 8 and 9XL, but the 9XL does run cooler. I just switched to a 9XL in my 8ight truck. I wanted cooler running and more runtime. The 9XL is plenty fast enough for our tight track and bashing, but you can't expect to go drag racing with it.

The XL motors are rather inexpensive. You could get two. A 7XL for hauling butt, and the 9XL for all other times.

Thanks,
As I plan to use Mikes new motor mount and the stock Revo tranny would it be better to use the Feigao motor with built in heatsink or should I go for an smoth can motor and adding the external heatsink ?
Also does it matter what brand it is as long as it's an 9XL (or 8 or 7) ?
Feigao/Nemesis/Wanderer are all listed as one product in the shop.

I made a Emaxx tranny conv ERevo from a 2.5 chassis, and now I'm working on a 3.3/stock tranny conv.

I decided on getting a 3.3 chassis for the main reason of trying to limit the wheelies a bit. That and adding the adj rear arms and a center diff. I'm not a racer, but I would like to tame the nose a bit, and I hope the length doesn't diminsh bashability too much.

The ext is 30mm and its all in the front of the st servos. Therefore the usable part of the chassis is pretty much the same as the 2.5. I had 2x2S lipos like you have which are mounted in a saddle config in the V1. V2 will have them mounted on opposite side as motor. Hopefully balance i not too off, but it was never perf w/ the emaxx tranny and that drove very well, so I'm not too worried. Again, not a racer or too picky. The chassis brace is a seperate part from Trx, it can be mounted on either chassis. I haven't bought one, but I'm debating. You think if it was needed for a nitro, it'd be good to have w/ BL. But IDK yet. :)

W/ Mike's brace, XLs do fit.

See Trx for 2.5-3.3 conv, its not whole lot, but I won't everything. Mostly steer links, longer F drive line, body etc.

Thanks for all the hint and help Finnster.

Will the centerdiff fit on a 2.5 aswell ?

When you say that "XLs do fit" do you mean that I can chose the smoth can+external heatsink or the one with the builtin/can heatsink for the XL motor ?

The stock Revo CD does fit the 2.5 tranny, but you have to do the FOC.

you can also use the 3r racing revo ext. chassis , i did and it works great, servos are up front , but have to dremal alittle for cd rear brake clearance

That is the gray chassis, right? That's the chassis my Revo is running, except I'm using my version of the "slipperential" on it. It's a great chassis!

yeah thats the one