Castle may have lost one
 

I got tired of waiting on castle to release the MMM and i got plans for the two MM i got, so i just ordered two quark pro125's for my two MT's. I might get a MMM, when they come out.

does anyone got advice for setups? I will be running 7XL and 9XL till i get a couple Neu's, waiting on advice from Mike. So any advise on setups will be appreciated. I will be running the RC-Monster esc plates as well

I think Castle stands to lose alot if they don't release something this year.

Setup is pretty easy and depends on how you run. If running lipos, I always set the LVC to "manual" and then to 3.0v/cell. The pre-set options are lipo-high and lipo-normal IIRC, and I have no idea what the cutoff voltage is for those.

Be sure to keep an eye on the heat from the Quark. My limited experience with them showed that they generate a lot of heat, so you'll want to add the heatsink and probably fans to them.

I have mine wired up with a 1/4" thick piece of aluminum as a sink that was mounted to my chassis and on the hot day that I ran it, I was getting up to 170F, which I believe is within limits, but is still hotter than the 150 at which my MM runs.

Much of the Quarks' heat may come from programming options and obviously gearing.

I think 170 is still a bit hot. Electronics always perform and last better when the temps are kept in check.

For coolest running I have found that the Lipoly Normal and the soft torque settings help alot with generating less heat. I found this after talking to frank at quark and he recomended these settings for cooler running. It does help a little. From what I understand the Lipo Normal vs Lipo High setting somewhat limits the peak amps it will allow the ESC to draw. I cant really tell a diference in the acceleration and performance of the system set to normal vs high but it does seem to run cooler. The torque setting has a similar effect as it slows the spool up of the motor and helps keep the amp draw a litttle lower. I'd recomend starting with the settings in the conservative (low,normal) settings untill you can run it a few times and assess you individulat heat situation. If you are coolw tioh the heatsink you can bump them up and see if you can tell a difference. I couldn't though.

thanks I will follow the advise, I'm going to get the paste and esc mount as said and will use fans. this will be my first other than a Novak or castle

Yeah, at the time I fried my Quark, I was playing with the settings, IIRC, I was at LiPo High, and Dynamic torque. So it was prob getting a work-out with my 7XL. :026: That's prob what tipped it over the boiling point.

If you are talking about using the paste to fasten the esc to the heatsink, I'd use arctic alumina epoxy. It will work better. The paste and zip ties won't work as well.

Are you going to buy the heatsink that Mike sells in his store for the Quark? I like it and use it myself, but find it a little on the heavy side. It does work very well though.

I'm not sure how exactly i am going to mount it, but i will get the esc plate. Will the chassis on the Gmaxx be a good heatsink for the esc? or, will the esc plate be better?

As far as I'm concerned, the bigger the heatsink the better. The chassis the the largest heatsink available. If you can affix the controller to the chassis, you should be good. Unless I'm mistaken, this is the way that Mike runs his Quark in his emaxx.

If you use the chassis as a heatsink, just make sure the entire back of the controller is covered for best effect. Mike has a "special" rear plate made up for his G2 chassis and the Quark mounts to a flat surface with fins milled on the bottom side and has a place for a fan to attach and blow over the heatsink fins.

My G2 chassis has the extension and a hole for a fan, it will be used as well. On the RC-Monster heatsink, should i put the esc on the flat and the fan on the side with the design on it?