my e-revo begins
 

ok ok so lately i have been asking alot of questions, but now it all starts to come together. here are some pics os my incomplete battery tray and motor mount. I based everything from pictures of other peoples e-revos and from the help you all have given me. I still need an ESC, (hopefully a MM), but the motor and battery are from my friends e-lst and i just used them to mock it all up.
Let me know what you think.
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/DSCN2950.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/DSCN2949.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/DSCN2948.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/DSCN2947.jpg

ok so i finially finished my motor mount and my battery box and my esc mount. now all i need is an esc my fiegao xl7 and drive down to maxamps and buy my 8000 mah battery. quick question, what do your guys trucks weight, because according to my addition my truck should weigh about 11.5lbs, is this heavy? should i get a smaller battery to make it lighter?
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/DSCN2951.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/DSCN2952.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/DSCN2953.jpg
I still need to figure out a way to strap down the battery but i think i might just use a clip strap(dont know technical term) and use that to adjust how tight i need it. Plus should i add some padding around the battery?
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/DSCN2958.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...r/DSCN2957.jpg

Layout looks good. But what did you do the cutting with??? An ice-pick??? :002:

Really rough edges.

Does it all work well?

lol i know its really rough, but i used a dremel to cut lexan deep enough to break it. that stuff it tough i coulden't just score it and try and break it it would just make it look worse but i tried my best. the main reason the little piece is so rough is because its so little it was hard to make it break clean. but anyways it works really well its strong and decently balanced from corner to corner. but im getting a 8000mah battery and im worried that it might mess up the balance because its so heavy but we will find out soon enough.

hey umm i decided to get the Feigao 540C XL7( the one with the finned can) instead of just the xl7. would I still need a fan or another heatsink?

Good job man, do what you can with what you have.

ok so i was about to order my esc when i realized that the MM will need a fan to handle a 4s, now i could order a fan from a website but i woulden't know how to wire it at all, seeing as electric is new to me can someone get me a close up of how the fan wires into everything or just describe to me how everything works cuz right now i am all confused. I looked at the manual for the MM and i see a universal connector coming from the esc, is this the power cable, if so this means i no longer need a 6V battery for the servos, correct? Also where should i use the Y connector to power the fan ,the reverse servo perhaps? Sorry for being such a noob i just dont want to smoke my stff the first day i get it.

http://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/_wiring_bec.html

BrianGs wiring diagram should help you understand how it needs to be wired.

If running 4s on the MM you will need to use an external power source for the servos. Either a UBEC or receiver pack.

he has one. look at the shot showing the battery tray.

yeah i have it there because i thought i might need it but then i saw a pic of a MM and it had a universal connector and i thought I could use that as the power
I guess il just use my receiver pack seeing as it is already there and ready to go. I might eventually get a BEC but i will wait untill i my receiver pack starts going dead. But the diagram really help me understand ho to wire it. I seems like i should use a Y connector to directly connect the battery to the fan.

Sweet alright now everything is ordered, i got my xl7 but its the one with the finned can, next i ordered a MM and tomorrow im going to max amps and probably getting a 6000HV 4s lipo, i am so amped ( get it amped.....no nevermind) to get everything in.

Yours looks like my conversion only a little rougher around the edges. Polycarbonate is easy to cut with a regular hacksaw. You can file and shape it just like dense wood. Only it tends to load up so you need a wire brush to clean the plastic out of the file. If you take a little time the edge will come out nice. I find that I didn't need the wall in the rear of my battery box. Just to save you some weight.

You asked for weights of trucks, mine started out at 12lbs as seen here.
http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o...s/IMG_0937.jpg

I would also reccomend Husky Hangalls to for the battery.

I also now run my box mount under the chassis tabs. That way the force of and impact is spread over the area of the tab and not on the screws. All you need is some thin foam. I used a high density packing foam. It was just about 3mm so it is about flush with the tab.

Here is my truck as it was. Right now it's being rebuild from the ground up to better support it's new bashing duties.
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6847

yeah i saw yours before, i based my esc mound off yours it was a good idea, hope you didnt mind that i used it. but are you sure i dont need the extra piece behind the battery, i would think the battery might slip back when i land on the back or something and knock it out. but can you show me how you mounted that strap? did you drill some holes on the bottom and bolt it in? But seeing yours im thinking about sanding the edges some more mine looks like crap compared to yours.

No it's fine if you want to base your build off things I have done. That is why I posted it, I wanted to share what I was doing. Like I wanted to know if an airplane ESC would work. Some had tried with some degree of success and some said it wasn't worth it. I've been happy with the result in my application and thought people might like to know. So I help answer any questions when I can. I'm a noob myself so I do what I can.

It's hard to take pictures when it's apart but I'll try to describe it best I can.
http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o...s/IMG_1017.jpg
You can see in the above picture that I drilled a second hole in the long tab. I did it to allow me to use a "washer bar" for lack of a better term. It is just piece of AL with 2 holes in it. I would have taken a picture but I couldn't find it. This is the main thing that holds the Husky strap. In order from top to bottom it's, screws, chassis tab, poly box, Husky strap, "washer bar", nylon nuts. I put a hole in the strap for the outer screw to go though. I figured out how I wanted to velcro. Which was to have the end of the ruff side stop at the front top edge of the battery. Then I melted a small hole in it with a nail and lighter. When you strap it in you have to lift the back end up so the suspension drops then you can go down.

The Husky is 24" so it wraps all the way around the box. So it doesn't need the back of the box to hold it the velcro will do it. The foam I'm using it a little rubbery and keeps the battery from sliding. I also push a foam block in between the vertical part of the chassis by the rear shock mount and the battery. It's made from the packing material in the rear brake kit. It's stops it from doing any twisting and keeps it nice and snug against the poly wall.

I should note that when I took this picture it was just sitting there not screw together in any way.
http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o...s/IMG_1015.jpg